Larryect

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pkunk,
If I wasn't clear before about the bold section I quoted and your situation - I am not saying you have to use a transfer switch that transfers the neutral, because you disconnect all the wires including the neutral when you unplug the cords, the cords are the disconnecting device.
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Wayne Dohnal

Bend, OR.

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Quote: I don't see a way to edit the post... If you're logged in, there should be an "edit" link on your post, between "quote" and "print".
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Larryect

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thanks
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pkunk

Questa, NM

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Quote: "It is most likely reading through the windings of the genny. You can double check by doing voltage checks with it running. Check for 120v hot - neutral, 0v neutral to ground, and 120v hot to ground. If the measuremnts show that way I am sure it is bonded.
Your house is most certainly bonded in your main panel. You can take the same measurements and/or look in the panel at the neutral buss. Sometimes it is a bit hard to see because there may just be a screw driven through the buss into the panel. It is probably more obvious with green and white wires hooking to the same buss.
Be very careful of-course if you take the cover off the panel. You may want to shut off the main breaker, but even then, don't touch indiscriminately."
I'm quite comfortable around electricity as I'm a licensed pump installer and have done alot of wiring on my house.
OK so the MH is bonded, the house is bonded.......will I have a problem with my hook up?
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Larryect

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Ultimatly, your the one to make that decision. Carefuuly read again what I wrote here, ESPECIALLY the Blue parts:
Quote: To be clear, having two points of neutral to ground bonding would be contrary to current NEC code. This requirement of the code has evolved over time as more understanding of safety problems with multiple grounds has become more clear.
In researching this, it looks like your on-board RV unit may be bonded. It seems to me the only risk in leaving both bonded would be a possible ground loop in the cords between the house and RV while the RV was hooked up. As I see it the risk would be: If a problem developed in the neutral the current would be carried in the ground. If one of the cords lost their neutral and ground wires the current would be carried back in the other cord, possibly overloading it. If you lost all ground and neutral, but not the hot wires you would have a potentially deadly situation for anyone that completed that circuit by touching the RV while standing on ground......
If I were doing this, I would consider the risk of two bonds to be extremely unlikely in this temporary power situation. I think permanently unhooking your ground bond in the house would cause a larger risk. To do it temporarily in either the MH or house would be good and maybe this is what slugmobile is suggesting. But then the risk comes in making sure it is ONLY temporary and not forgotten.
I still believe the larger risk is in having shared NEUTRALS in the house. That MUST be verified to prevent a fire hazard.
This is my opinion, other electricians may have other valid opinions. The safest thing for any of us to tell you is to not do it of course.
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ScottG

Bothell Wa.

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This is very interesting.. I did some work on my converter yesterday and noticed that the "common" bus bar was insulated with plastic where it mounted to the breaker panel while the ground was screwed to the panel. Now I see why.
Perhaps the OP's "common" in his RV isn't really bonded to the ground either. If that is true then he should keep the configuration of his house panel intact.
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Larryect

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In my research it has become apparent RV's normally do not have the common bonded to ground (in the house power system). This is to prevent multiple bonding points when pulgged into shore power. The difficulty comes in when a generator is added to the equation. Apparently the standard (and correct) practice is to bond the ground to the "common" inside the on-board generator and also use a transfer switch.
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Bit Bucket

Brookings, Oregon

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Larryect wrote: In my research it has become apparent RV's normally do not have the common bonded to ground (in the house power system). This is to prevent multiple bonding points when pulgged into shore power. The difficulty comes in when a generator is added to the equation. Apparently the standard (and correct) practice is to bond the ground to the "common" inside the on-board generator and also use a transfer switch.
100% accurate. In fact RV's that have the neutral bonded in the 120 volt distribution panel are in violation of code, period.
And further, the transfer switch HAS to switch both the neutral as well as the "hot" as you can only have one place where the neutral is bonded to the ground, period.
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pkunk

Questa, NM

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Where would I be if I removed the genny ground from the MH plugs and just used the hot & neutral? That's all the main breaker of the house has as the house has it's own ground. It's easy enough to do as I'll just remove it from the duplex.
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Bit Bucket

Brookings, Oregon

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pkunk wrote: Where would I be if I removed the genny ground from the MH plugs and just used the hot & neutral? That's all the main breaker of the house has as the house has it's own ground. It's easy enough to do as I'll just remove it from the duplex.
In a terrible safety position and illegal and not to code in all situations. The question here is bonding the neutral to ground, not whether there is a ground or not...
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