My experience with a very similar setup, minus the chains... I flat towed my Jeep Wrangler for several years thinking that with virtually zero tongue weight I would never have any problems. That was true until the day that I managed to hit just the right bump at the right time at the right angle resulting in bending the extension so bad that we had to unhook the Jeep and my wife had to drive it all the way home. And this wasn't with wimpy materials either, I tried to bend the extension back into shape using my shop press and couldn't even budge it. It now lives in my scrap iron pile and a Super Hitch/Super Truss lives in it's place.
Owyheedog wrote: My experience with a very similar setup, minus the chains... I flat towed my Jeep Wrangler for several years thinking that with virtually zero tongue weight I would never have any problems. That was true until the day that I managed to hit just the right bump at the right time at the right angle resulting in bending the extension so bad that we had to unhook the Jeep and my wife had to drive it all the way home. And this wasn't with wimpy materials either, I tried to bend the extension back into shape using my shop press and couldn't even budge it. It now lives in my scrap iron pile and a Super Hitch/Super Truss lives in it's place.
Glad you related this story. It is a good example of dynamic loading and why it needs to be considered when working out the weight limits.
Owyheedog wrote: My experience with a very similar setup, minus the chains... I flat towed my Jeep Wrangler for several years thinking that with virtually zero tongue weight I would never have any problems. That was true until the day that I managed to hit just the right bump at the right time at the right angle resulting in bending the extension so bad that we had to unhook the Jeep and my wife had to drive it all the way home. And this wasn't with wimpy materials either, I tried to bend the extension back into shape using my shop press and couldn't even budge it. It now lives in my scrap iron pile and a Super Hitch/Super Truss lives in it's place.
This isn't a critique of what happened, I'm just figuring the physics in my head, but did you have any kind of supplemental braking module in your jeep (Blue ox, etc...)?
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I don't mean to offend anyone here , some people offer good sound advice .
Being that you are not sure 'how to build ' this , why take the chance on not doing right. It might end being a liability for you. With a 6000# trailer, this is not exactly a lightweight combo. If an accident occurs,'you' are liable . It will cost you a lot more than $1500.00 than a Tork-lift super hitch would cost .
If you have a professional shop set you up , you shift the liability from 'you to them'. It's not always worth trying to save a relativily small amt. of money when it comes down to D.O.T specified hitches to be installed on motor vehicles that are used on public highways.
Shops that perfprm this type of work are D.O.T certified . This is done for a reason.
This is certainly an accident waiting to happen. Test would be braking in a sweeping corner or going over a "speed bump" in a COSTCO parking lot. For me, I went the way we did when I was farming as a kid.
The back frame area and hitch base, on your truck, is positioned better than most with Truck Campers. Maybe you should consider approaching your hitch extension solution from a different perspective. This is what I have done and did back in the 70s, for our heavy hay wagons.
bobndot wrote: Shops that perfprm this type of work are D.O.T certified . This is done for a reason.
This is sage advice! All my work has been fine tuned and welded by a D.O.T. certified welder. I would not risk anything less. (My loaded trailer TARE Wt, is 4200 #)
Good luck and travel safely, my friends and family are out there on the roads you are towing on.
Owyheedog wrote: My experience with a very similar setup, minus the chains...I flat towed my Jeep Wrangler for several years thinking that with virtually zero tongue weight I would never have any problems. That was true until the day that I managed to hit just the right bump at the right time at the right angle resulting in bending the extension so bad that we had to unhook the Jeep and my wife had to drive it all the way home. And this wasn't with wimpy materials either, I tried to bend the extension back into shape using my shop press and couldn't even budge it. It now lives in my scrap iron pile and a Super Hitch/Super Truss lives in it's place.
Not a fair comparison. I question you would have bent the original extension if it had the chains.
I would be uncomfortable with any extension over 18-inches, without the chains. But that is just me.
ticki2 wrote: I would like to thank everyone for their thoughts and comments so far. I am still trying to digest much of it.
Clearification , the 4x4 tube/bumper is attached to the truck frame with side plates that come up along the outside of the frame and rap around the top of the frame . Each side is bolted to the side of the frame with 4 1/2" bolts , total of 8.
Some guidlines that I used was the Reese towbeast 41" extension which seemed to have the requiorments that I needed . The only difference between the two is mine has a 2" reciever with a 2" solid bar and theirs is a 2-1/2" reciever with 2-1/2" tube , and theirs has no chains.
Question on the chains . The working load on 5/16 30 grade is 1900#. Since that is the working load and not the breaking load I would think that it already has the 2x safety factor built in. I could also easily go to 1/2" chain and turnbuckles if that is the weak point.
Question on WD hitch. I don't understand what difference it makes if it is a 2" or 2-1/2" since it's relationship to the trailer would be the same and either is more than capable for the load.
I'm sure I am missing something here , my old brain is working overtime but some of the drastic reductions in capacities puzzle me.
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