kerry4951 wrote: Can someone shed some light on the difference between the Sure Power 1314 and 1315. I see that the 1315 allows charging to the primary as well as secondary batteries. Can I assume then that if I was boondocking with solar in the TC, that after the TC batteries were charged to 13.2 volts, that the 1315 would then allow charging to the truck batteries ( I have the 3500 dually with twin 12 volt batteries). I see that the 1315 is only a few dollars more than the 1314, and was wondering if it would be worth going to the 1315. Thanks for any advice.
You have the difference correct.
The only downside of the 1315 is that the solenoid will draw power when it is paralleling the other direction so it will use up part of your solar power.
Thank you MatthewB......that makes sense.
2009 Chevy Silverado 3500 dually D/A, Supersprings, Stable Loads, Bilstein Shocks, Hellwig Sway Bar, Front Timbrens.
2010 Arctic Fox 1140 DB, 220 watts solar, custom 4 in 1 "U" shaped dinette/couch, 59 interior and exterior mods to date and still adding
The Sure Power unit is actually a battery separator, which is a voltage controlled solenoid switch. An isolator is a diode arrangement that works more like a plumbing check valve and has somewhat more resistance than a separator. Both do the job. I installed a Sure Power 1315, which is their two-way unit since I have a charging source on both ends - alternator on the truck, solar and converter on the TC. It was an easy install. I traced the 12v + line from the 7-way plug and on my rig it landed at the 12v + bus at the converter. This was removed and run to the aux batt terminal on the separator. The main batt terminal was run to the load terminal on a circuit breaker that I installed at the battery to replace the stock fuse. There is also a ground connection and you are done. There is also an option to install a switch that will marry the batteries for engine starting.
c.traveler2 wrote: My Lance 815 didn't originally came with a battery isolator and I istalled a Sure Power under the sink in the cabinet compartment. Very easy to install and my unit has been trouble free since I installed it several years ago.
Thank you for the pic! It is as simple as I thought it should be. A one way valve, or electrical current restictor. ( whatever the hell ya call it)
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I decided to install a battery separator, but I wanted it to work while using several of my battery equipped trailers, not just the TC. The engine compartment in my 09 Silverado is tight, with not alot of room for extras. It mounted nicely under the hood, fastened to the fuse panel cover. Not a hard installation and it works very well. Its nice to know that I have protection whicle hauling the TC or towing my other trailers. I went with the Sure Power 1314-200. Throwing this out as another location to mount one for anyone else thinking about installing one.
Nice install kerry-though pic makes it look like that big honkin loom is going to bottom of solinoid and you couldnt remove fuse box cover
at least how im seeing this, seems the 1314 better choice in my app.
I was looking at the sure power units because of the auto dissconnect when voltage lower on source side. I currently have a manual constant duty solinoid thats ign controlled with switch to enable or turn off, vs the'smart' voltage controlled solinoid. I also had installed an amp guage so I can see charge being sent to camper and have seen this reverse flow when camper batteries are at a higher rate than truck batteries. Ive learned to not engage or turn off untill a few miles down the road.
I can manually engage solinoid to charge truck if needed, Im just not sure bout the 1315-I see some advantages and Im sure my truck batteries would like it, but on short days Im seeing camper batteries not recieveing all they could. If on shore power this would be good but Im seeing possibly not reaching float on solar. Not too sure my 120 solar would maintain 4 batts. Also if using gen would engage the 1315. I guess truck batteries shouldnt be using that much just sitting and may have no impact.
..never mind... I thought I had a point cause I was thinking of switching my dumb solinoid to the smart 1314 just to keep reverse flow from ocurring/ auto engaging instead of waiting to manually engage after charge stablized. But my understanding, i just realized is its the charge rate not standing voltage its measuring to engage still might see reverse flow untill truck batteries equal.... I might be better off just making mine 1 way (or remove amp gage/replace with negative range)hmm
AnEv942
You are seeing wrong. The loom of wire has nothing to do with the installation. I removed the fuse panel cover and fastened the separator to the lid. Cover pops off just like before. Left enough wire slack so I can lift the lid and lay it off to the side.
Just to point something else out....... the 1314 sure power is good up to 100 amps. If your truck has a higher amp alternator they recommmend you go to the 1314-200 (good for up to 200 amps).
I just did something similar on my '05 Chevy. In my case fusebox lid is shallow and the tall sidewall of the fusebox made a nice spot to mount it. The nice thing is it was so close that I only had to move the factory wire from stud#1 onto the isolator and build one short wire between the two plus add a lug to the ground wire.
I went with an AOPEC brand. I like the clean look but have never used one so before I'll have to see how it holds up. BEP Marine makes some decent looking single and dual sensing ones too.
Thanks kerry ,just being a wise guy, I know its not but in the pic does look like looms going it, thought it was funny tho.
the 200 amps a good point-belive my alts a 110. still pondering this. The constant duty was only $20 been in there a few years so no real loss to replace. Its also pretty much where yours is so easy change out.
Its the load after starting truck I'd like to address, just unsure that this will work better than manually waiting to switch on solinoid. Though would address my concerens when refer is on, stalling in the middle of intersection, huge load, the auto dissconnect would be reason to switch. just thinking out loud.
I think this might be where Wanderin fool referance to getting info about using in a diesel might have come from-using a manual solinoid and the huge loads simutaneusly that and maybe heat. Anyway as this thread cover a few weeks, just concluding between the modles the 1314 or 15 for me would work better as far as features.
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