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 > Camping in excessive heat and air conditioning

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TUCQUALA

Kennewick, WA

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Joined: 10/29/2003

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Posted: 08/08/11 09:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gosh, all the NOISE those a/c units and fans make must have made some others mad!!!


'10 Jayco JayFlight 24FBS
'99 K2500 SUBURBAN 7.4L
'03 EXCURSION V10

WENONAH Sundowner 17


frmilmo

Farmington,Mo

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Posted: 08/09/11 07:04am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

TUCQUALA wrote:

Gosh, all the NOISE those a/c units and fans make must have made some others mad!!!


My ac unit (1500) isn't very loud at all, when sitting outside with it running I can still hear bird songs. Inside it is a little loud when on dump but otherwise it doesn't bother us at all.





rsday75

Horseshoe, NC

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Posted: 08/09/11 11:33am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In our Sprinter, the 15K AC would struggle to keep the camper at 75 with an outside temp of 95. I removed the cover at the AC unit on the inside and taped the ducting. There were huge holes and gaps from the factory. Lots of cold air was going right into the roof. I then removed the grills at the end of each duct at the end of the run. I stuffed these with foam insulation as there were gaps there letting a lot of cold air make it into the roof.

After these mods, we camped in 105 degree temps. The AC kept the camper at a comfy 73 and would actually cycle on and off instead of running continuously. I have since done this to my parents camper, and while the leaks were not as bad, it has made a huge improvement in their 5er. When all the cold air actually makes it into the camper, it makes a huge difference.


2003 GMC Serria 2500HD D/A
2005 Sprinter 314BHDS

batman99

at seasonal site

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Posted: 08/09/11 12:30pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rsday75 wrote:

In our Sprinter, the 15K AC would struggle to keep the camper at 75 with an outside temp of 95. I removed the cover at the AC unit on the inside and taped the ducting. There were huge holes and gaps from the factory. Lots of cold air was going right into the roof. I then removed the grills at the end of each duct at the end of the run. I stuffed these with foam insulation as there were gaps there letting a lot of cold air make it into the roof. After these mods, we camped in 105 degree temps. The AC kept the camper at a comfy 73 and would actually cycle on and off instead of running continuously. I have since done this to my parents camper, and while the leaks were not as bad, it has made a huge improvement in their 5er. When all the cold air actually makes it into the camper, it makes a huge difference.


For my Jayco, I did similar modification as well. I removed the 5 x "round" ceiling vents and felt inside the large cavities with with my fingers. I also got a light scope with 4ft camera and shoved into the ceiling cavity as well. I was "shocked" on how sloppy the roof AC piping was. Huge holes for "cold" air to escape into the roof cavity. And, for mice to get into the inner roof air duct system. Scary how much mouse poop was in the ceiling air duct system as well. So... I blocked the 5 x roof vents with by silicone them shut and by spray foaming their hidden side. I then removed the large AC cover (20"x20"), and wire meshed / spray foamed its inner ceiling air duct routes. I then permanently removed the deflection plate (so cold air goes directly into TT's main cavity area). I installed a steel screen on the large 20x20" plastic vent and screwed back into place. Now... No more cooling the air space between the upper roof cavity. Our Jayco's AC works less time and still cools our entire "open concept" TT. Glad I made this DIY modification as well....

Note to self is running a Trailer Maker factory... Don't use "useless" square styrofoam boxes for ceiling air duct system. Take the time to use high quality "real steel" flex pipes, seal pipes using real / proper steel duct tape and apply spray foam around the pipes to eliminate natural condensation. Thus, creating much better air flow, have it real steel (which is "critter resistant) and being flex pipe, it can "tlex" to its connected 4" round vents location. A minimum building method that should be mandated "minimum code" on all RVs/TTs.

.

auggy

alabama

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Posted: 08/09/11 06:15pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

we live in Alabama done till the fall !

RonBB

Midwest

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Posted: 08/13/11 06:36pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

With all the high temperatures & high humidity we've had this summer my low profile Dometic A/C has had condensation condensing on the inside plastic grill & dripping inside. I've had a few drops in the past but nothing like this summer. The unit has been checked to make sure the mounting bolts are snug, the pan on the roof isn't cracked & the weep holes are clear. It is draining like normal outside as well. Anyone else had this issue? The unit is running nearly continuously so the grill does get pretty cold. My trailer is a small one, an Edge M18 & the A/C is only 11,000 Btu's but it does cool the trailer really well. Any thoughts?

HappyTrails2U2

Tennessee is home but being held hostage in GA.

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Posted: 08/14/11 07:21am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You might want to have you thermometer checked. A 13,500 BTU A/C unit that will cool a 34 ft. travel trailer down to 72 to 74 degrees in 105 degree temperatures, especially in full sun shine, is not very likely. Our 15,000 BTU A/C unit won't do it in our 34 ft. Rockwood trailer.


2010 Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite 8315BSS
2003 Chevy Silverado 1/2 Ton Extended Cab


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