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Topic: 1990 460 Ford Fleetwood Flair

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/10/11 06:08pm

1990 460 Ford Fltwood Flair
Reading these posts I just found and registered here, regarding "ignition module problems" vs "fuel pump upgrade."
820 mile round trip in January, no problems
With 1 owner prior to myself, 49,000 miles on it, (44k when we bought it) we recently had same problems with motor cutting off 30 to 70 miles with weather temps in the mid 90's on the road. June 2011, Running MH motor now without 2nd heat source to ignition module. 30 minutes in driveway temp 91 outside (Heat index 94). Cannot exactly locate the ignition module, although book says drivers side fender well. Turned motor off.
This ignition switch on steering wheel itself went out last year, had it repaired, yet nothing to do with module.

Any answers?



Posted By: enblethen on 08/10/11 06:28pm

Ford! I would say fuel pump.

USAF Retired
Pace Arrow

2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/10/11 06:42pm

Thank You Sir !

With these posts regarding the ignition module + an external heat source, I have to try that as soon as I locate it in MH engine. No one in town here wants to replace the fuel pump due to size of gas tank (36 gallon), or because it is a MH with generator, 2 fuel lines. Generator is getting gas no problems. I know, it's closer to fuel pump. Nearest CW shop 60 miles and 2 week wait. Fltwd is no help whatsoever. Good news is that with other parts replaced, have found 'most everything' from the 1995 F350 trucks 460 is similar. After installing new Gas filter it did it again on a test drive last week.
61 miles, then quit. Cools off, 15-20 minutes starts up fine.

I have one mechanic nearby town, will try the "ignition module" with heat source test, when I locate it. If that passes, I will ask him to schedule me a new fuel pump. On that note, wondering if anyone knows the fuel pump part number or type either from ford or auto parts stores?

Veteran myself and I SALUTE YOU SIR!


Posted By: enblethen on 08/10/11 07:14pm

The genset does not use the fuel pump in the tank. It has a fuel pump of it's own.
I would not recommend a CW to do this type of work.
Fuel pumps at Oreilly auto parts
Ford fuel pumps

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/10/11 07:26pm

Thank You Sir enblethen

Will Do


Posted By: crasster on 08/10/11 07:32pm

That should have an external fuel pump, however, I have seen fords with them in the tank. Remove the hoses from the tank and put a small catch container under the outlets on the tank. Have somebody turn the key to the "on" position but not start. If it starts squirting out gas without a hose connection, fuel pump is in the tank. If not, it's external.

4 whopping cylinders on Toyota RV's. Talk about great getting good MPG. Also I have a very light foot on the pedal. I followed some MPG advice on and I now get 22 MPG! Not bad for a home on wheels.

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/10/11 07:39pm

Thank you crasster

I will look in the morning...

If the fuel pump is external, wouldn't I be able to see it?



Posted By: Jpony56hd on 08/10/11 11:01pm

I have a 1988 Gulfstream HiRise with the Ford 460. Mine has an Bendix electric pump located outside in front of the tank, centered and at the base. Being an 88 it's still carburatorated. If your Fuel injected, I'd suspect the pump is in the tank. At one time I had a shut down problem much like yours. It would run fine and then just shut off. Let it sit for tem minutes or so and all would be fine untill the next time. This was a common problem in the 80's with Fords Motorcraft Electronic ignitions. Usually it was the ignition control mudule. It's a 6" square 3" thick aluminum cast box with two 6" long wire bundles and round plastic wire connectors. Mine was located in the R/H front wheel well. When the module quits you'll either get a quick pow and it's off or it will just quit. When the pump quits it's more like you running out of gas and flounders for a few seconds and then quits.

Posted By: tahiti16 on 08/10/11 11:25pm

Our 90 Airex we had years ago with a 460 had the in tank pump. Only problem we ever had was when the tube failed and the pump broke off and hung by the cable! RexAir had modified the pump for a larger tank, 60 gals with Ford approval, and Ford paid for the replacement. The early in tank pumps were sensitive to being run low on fuel 1/4 tank and below, the fuel was used to cool the pump. If it was run to much with 1/4 tank or less the heat got to the pump.

Ray, Cheryl & of course Miss Molly the four-legged child

2006 Dolphin 36' F53 V10 5 speed auto 2 slides 7.5 KW genset

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/10/11 11:31pm

Thank You X a million Jpony56hd. I will be hunting it in the morning with the light bulb test while the air is cooler. I am however about convinced I need the fuel pump anyway as I seriously doubt any of these have been changed by the previous owner. He concentrated on the interior with new stove and microwave. What you described in your post is exactly what mine is doing, both popping when it shuts down loudly or just shuts down quietly. Await 10-15 mins before we can get it cranked again.
low miles yet also 21 years old, it just makes sense to do it all and get it outta the way before another or the next problem hits me. An FYI for you and the forum, is that there was a recall on Ford ignitions 1990-1996 although I don't remember the model trucks F's ? or all the details. My ignition switch on column went kaput last year.

Thanks again !!!


Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/10/11 11:38pm

Hi tahiti16 & your puppy...

You also have me convinced as I posted above, to replace both ignition module & fuel pump.
awaiting bids now from my local AutoMd's
One mechanic only uses motor craft parts pump alone runs over $500, yet he hasn't facilities to lift MH, not a dealer.
Thanks a million and stay safe!


Posted By: John&Joey on 08/11/11 01:20am

Don't rule out the ignition control module. If it cuts out and then 20 minutes later it starts, it sure would be a key candidate for being the problem.

The module may be located on the firewell away from the engine. You will need a special star tool to remove the screws that mount the module. For $40 I would just replace it and put the other one
in the bay as a spare. If the problem goes away I would then discard the old one. Fords were know to go thru them, so it's just a matter of when and not if.

Posted By: spacedoutbob on 08/11/11 01:42am

You can find out if it is fuel related or ignition related. When it stalls, spray some carburetor spray into the throttle, that is on the side where the shorter hoses run. If it runs, it is a fuel related issue. Ford had issues with fuel filters causing the problem that you describe. It could be a fuel filter that is plugged that is causing your problem. Remember when a vehicle sits, the temperature goes up, not down as there is no air flow going through the engine compartment. While the vehicle sits the fuel will get warmer and flow upwards. When that happens, the vehicle will run again. Also, have the fuel pressure checked, you don't want to guess with in tank fuel pump replacements, they are not on the cheap side.

Bob in Calif.

Good Sam Club Life Member

Posted By: bsinmich on 08/11/11 05:31am

We had an '89 Ford with a catalytic convertor that plugged up a couple of times and put us on the side of the road. The third time I foumd that a pipe run through the convertor solved that problem and also improved mileage. That is so long ago I am past the Statute of Limitations, I hope. The 2 times this happemed was on a Sunday Morning that we had decided to skip Church.

1975 GMC Eleganza II & 1995 Roadtrek Versatile. Both old enough to vote and drink (gas)

Posted By: Bob_L on 08/11/11 06:00am

We had an '89 Flair with a 460 - drove us CRAZY with the same type problem. Changed out the fuel pump on the chassie rail - same problems. Had the pump in the tank changed and the problem went away totally. Later I had to fix the fuel gauge sender - and dropped the tank a couple of times in the driveway by myself. It was not a really big deal once I syphoned out the gas. I used a "platform jack" to lower and raise the tank. Getting to the fuel line connections on the top of the tank was not too bad once it was lowered to the ground. I found that my gauge issues were caused by a pin hole in the brass float. The float got enough gas in it for neutral bouyancy. Once drained & soldered it worked OK. Good Luck with yours. Bob_L

Posted By: btilfan on 08/11/11 06:25am

Had the same problem with my 1990 460 cobra malibu motorhome. had the in tank (100gal) fuel pump replaced and it solved the problem.

2004 Coachmen Liberty
My next hobby.

Posted By: John&Joey on 08/11/11 07:35am

If you want to read my story from three years ago about the same problem click on this link.

As you will find out most everyone on the forum was saying the fuel pump. Turned out to be the pickup coil inside the distributor. I was in a hurry to head south for the winter so I hired a mobile RV tech, best money I ever spent.

Posted By: T18skyguy on 08/11/11 09:31am

If you have the old style pump it's only a matter of time before it strands you permanently. I replaced mine myself. I don't have the part number handy but it is called the new style "turbine" pump. I backed the rig up on 4 Rhino ramps, un bolted the support straps and used two floor jacks to lower the rear of the tank down far enough to remove the nuts in the old pump pull it out and in with the new. The new pump also comes with a new harness that must be soldered to the old wires. Of course you want to run al the gas out of it first. It's critical to lower only the rear of the tank else you will rupture the fuel and electrical lines that come in from the front top of the tank. Two floor jacks, one in front and the other in the back did the trick. Not possible with just one jack.

Retired Anesthetist. Pilot with mechanic/inspection ratings. 2017 Jayco Greyhawk 31FS .Wife and daughter. Three cats which we must obey. Thorp T18, tons of tools and tons of junk.

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/11/11 09:43am

A HUGE Thanks to all You all. You have me convinced as I posted above, to replace both ignition module & fuel pump & fuel sending unit. FSU(some pumps have these on them doing research)

One mechanic only uses motor craft parts pump alone runs over $500, yet he hasn't facilities to lift MH, not a dealer.

Dealer does not work on MH's

Thanks a million everyone and stay safe! Defensive Driving is a must.


Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/11/11 02:48pm

Thanks again everyone and I want to give back a little for all your help regarding tire pressures. Say you are camping and parked for an extended time even overnight during the hotter summer months. You check your air pressures and they seem 5 to 10 pounds lower than what they should be. Like me, I was 23 miles from nearest gas station with air, yet when I got there, I checked the pressures again and found them all to be normal after traveling this mere 23 miles. I didn't add more air. I Learned that our air pressures relax when parked and go back to normal when running in the heat. When I asked about this at a dealership, I was told numerous places now have nitrogen air for tires that do not fluctuate. Next chance I get, I will be replacing tire air with nitrogen air.

Happy RV'g & Many Blessings Everyone


Posted By: Bruce Brown on 08/11/11 03:14pm

We owned the same RV - with the same problem. Change the fuel pump. If it's not bad now it will be. On ours the tank also had a fair amount of rust in it as well. There is also a second fuel filter on the frame rail, should be about even with the drivers seat.

The very best thing we ever did to ours was put on a Banks Stinger System. We didn't want to get into trying to take the manifolds off so we just went with the Stinger system - and gutted the catalytic converter too. Made a huge difference in performance, mileage, and manifold temps.

There are 24 hours in every day - it all depends on how you choose to use them.
Bruce & Jill Brown
2008 Kountry Star Pusher 3910

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/12/11 05:41pm

Hi bsinmich.. thank you for that info. Did this occur in the hot weather or anytime? and did it crank back up immediately or how long before it cranked up again?

Thanks in Advance


Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/12/11 05:42pm

Dear Ray & Cheryl...tahiti16

Thank You for that info!

Many Blessings


Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/11/11 03:30pm

Thank You Bruce... That is indeed my intention and have found mechanic locally that will replace with a newer pump. Also considering changing fuel sending unit, ignition module and fuel pump relay bus fuse while in his hands. I do want to remove catalytic converter as well (not required in this state any more) yet mechanic tells me that "bypassing the smog pump with different fan belt could reduce mpg." I don't see how if the converter is replaced with straight exhaust pipe. Maybe I wasn't clear about removing converter also. Yet, due to all these costs, I will need to get some bills outta the way first. Should be in shop by the 25th.
I know the cost will approach 4 figures yet MH is paid for. Main thing is to be worry free, peace of mind on our jaunts to the beaches.

Thanks Again


Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/11/11 03:34pm

ps) to Bruce Brown...

Please elaborate regarding the Banks Springer System. What exactly is that?

I may as well do that to.



Posted By: enblethen on 08/11/11 03:48pm

Stinger package is a aprtial exhaust system to add the engine.
A better chpoice would be a set of headers. There is Banks headers which are very good. I have a full Banks package on my rig. Given the year of your coach, you must make a decision where $2000 or more is worth it to you. A set of Hedman, Hooker or other brands of headers may serve you just as well for less dollars.
Banks exhaust

Posted By: Nick-B on 08/11/11 03:51pm

Hi Mark,

I don't understand about disabling the smog pump either. All it does is add air to the exhaust stream to help with post-combustion burn and improve catalytic converter performance.

Banks Stinger is a very nice and very expensive exhaust system (w/o headers). If you don't want headers and want to keep your expenses low, just replace the converter with straight pipe and replace the stock muffler with something freer flowing. Take a look at the Walker "Big Truck" muffler if you don't want to be too loud. That setup would be the best Bang For the Buck. If you want to get max power from your 460, headers are the way to go.

1995 Coachmen Santara MB360 w/slide
F53/460 chassis w/tag

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/11/11 04:11pm

Hi Bud & Nick....

Thanks again for the info. w/o catalytic converter, smog pump wouldn't be any good anyway so I agree with you that maybe this mechanic didn't know or hear me say "remove cat converter" as well. These converters of any sort will eventually get clogged up and cause problems, so if not required here, I see no use for smog pump or cat converter. Replacing the cat conv, with a 4 ft or so with exhaust muffler in line is plan.

The stinger system may have to wait this go around yet thanks for the info as I am saving it for later.

Thanks Again Guys..


Posted By: enblethen on 08/11/11 04:45pm

Some states may not require the smog pump, but there could be a federal law covering it.
You may not only have to remove smog pump, but other items that effect the operation of the fuel system.
Ford had problems with catalytic converters plugging and cause very poor engine performance. Removing it may create problems with the oxygen sensor if equipped.
I would be very careful about removing smog pump and the catalytic converter.

Posted By: tahiti16 on 08/11/11 05:01pm

The problem with removing the belt is the air helps dilute the burnt gases before they get to the O2 sensor. Without that air supply the sensor will read wrong and adjust the mixture, in this case most likely lean, which means less power. To counteract that you will step on the throttle harder and you see where this is going.

As someone else stated your state may not have any EXTRA smog requirements but I bet they do state all federal rules apply. If they don't enforce them they lose their federal highway funds.

While YOU can remove the cat and be subject to a fine and having to replace it a mechanic doing it can be fined, much higher than your fine, and have his license pulled to be a mechanic along with his certifications pulled. Some places follow-up big time with no sympathy at all.

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/11/11 05:09pm

Hi Guys...

Thank you for your cat conv & smog pump concerns & info. All those mechs. I have talked to state it's okay to remove in this state. We don't have any inspections here since 2006 I believe they stopped then, SC. Yet I will research fed laws prior to doing anything of the sort. As well as the O2 sensor affects. Yet we all know eventually the converter will give us trouble sooner or later from past experiences and others' stories.

I Truly Appreciate the "Heads Up" from both of you!

Happy RV'g & Many Blessings..


Posted By: Nick-B on 08/12/11 04:26pm

Ooops, my bad! Ray is correct about the O2 sensor responding to proper exhaust mix provided by the air pump. Best to keep it functioning. They really don't produce enough drag to affect performance.

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/12/11 04:42pm

Thanks Man...

Am beginning to wonder overall, could a stopped up cat conv (cc) be causing the motor shutdown problem? I think NO, or it wouldn't crank back up again.
In regards to cc, I've called 3 different state agencies today all associated with emissions and dmv and have 3 different answers.

So, will let it be for now until fuel pump & sending unit is installed and running again and discuss with mech his opinion regarding cc at a later date. He did mention removing smog pump from fan belt could cause problems, so we'll start from there. Overall, leaning toward leaving cc and smog pump as is.

Many Blessings Everyone,


weather channel site has one of our pics uploaded of a sun set we listened to at OBX

Posted By: enblethen on 08/12/11 05:00pm

What state are you in that violates federal laws about emissions?
Yes, a plugged catalytic converter can cause the oxygen sensor to tell fuel injection to shut down.

Posted By: Dale.Traveling on 08/12/11 05:03pm

Freebirdss wrote:

Next chance I get, I will be replacing tire air with nitrogen air.

If you believe the nitrogen mass marketing then I have a bridge in Brooklyn you might be interested in buying. Nitrogen makes up almost 80% of the air around us and what even advantage it may have does not make up for the cost.

Concerning air pressure, you running your tire pressure too low which is dangerous. The coach manufacture will recommend a COLD minimum pressure for you. Never, ever go below it. The tire manufacture will recommend a maximum COLD pressure. Never, ever go above it. Those are cold pressure recommendations. Drive a mile and you are now working with different pressures due to heat.

If you tires are five pound under minimum recommended pressure in the morning when the tires are cold go find some place to get more air. Check the pressure when you arrive and add ten pound to whatever the pressure is warm. This should give you a correct cold pressure with an additional safety factor of five pounds. If you check your tire pressure while on the road all you are doing is insuring you are above the cold minimum pressure. Beyond that you should not consider adding or removing air except in extreme circumstances if your cold pressure is correct.

2006 Hurricane 31D aka 'Moby' the Whale
FCC(SW) US Navy Retired 1980-2003
Stella my Navigator
Bogart the All American RV Dog
Cocoui and Hanna waiting for me at the Rainbow Bridge

Posted By: tahiti16 on 08/12/11 05:14pm

I would expect your engine to shutdown sooner if cat blocked. When our cat died the engine would only run for about 5 minutes, unless a hill was involved then more like 5'! Ours plugged due to a failed smog part so both the failed part and the cat were covered by Ford. Had that coach another 5 years and 30K miles with no further issues. BTW that was a 90 460.

Posted By: bsinmich on 08/12/11 05:29pm

Both times when my '89 cat convertor plugged the MH would die when driving but would start right up and idle fine. When you put a load on it would die.

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/12/11 05:36pm

Hi Dale... Thank you for your concern. I SALUTE YOU for your service to our country.

Last summer 2010, brand new front tire, 3rd day of camping MH not moved, air in tire was 72, should be 80. I added 8 pounds and meter displayed 80 psi.

Temp outside 96-98,... two hours later it shuttered & then blew out while on I-95. Thank you roadside assistance. Whether nitrogen is a solution I dunno, I do know that adding air to cold tires which will be run under extremely hot conditions will cause above. When the pressure will buildup anyway once underway.

Nascar? They don't insert 32 lbs of air in the tires prior to changing. 20-25 psi is norm in summer on hot tracks. Sometimes that is to much due to heat buildup. Many do have blowouts due to excessive pressure from heat buildup. Contact your local Ford Dealer which whom recommended the nitrogen and it's free anyway at various locations.
Have had similar experience with car tires in the past. Blowouts due to excessive pressure buildup.
Since I have been practicing this, no blowouts in the cars or MH, 27,000 miles all total as per logs in cars & MH, since Jan last year.
(MH 5k-6k miles since blowout) Psi is 74 in am and I just checked sitting in driveway, psi is 78 & not even moving. Temp outside 88. Tell me how the two front tires gained 4 psi without adding air while sitting still?

Try this yourself, check psi in the am when it's cooler, when it gets hot and you didn't move MH or cars, check again.
Or check psi in car tires in your garage in the am, before going off anywhere. Remember it, then After 20 miles check again and see for yourself. It's common sense.

I try to never get close to the higher recommended psi level in any tire in hotter seasons. With only a 36 gal gas tank, the gas stops gives me ample opportunity to gauge the psi's and witnessed first hand increased pressures (outside temps close to 100) as high as 84 psi without adding any air. No blowouts since.

Not going to advertise the tire brand, yet it ain't any cheapo brand, well known & respected brand.

Many Blessings


Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/12/11 05:47pm

Hi Bud...

I am in S Carolina and we have no vehicle inspection requirements any longer. I am not saying the state violates federal emission rules. Georgia hasn't had inspections for much longer. Now if a vehicle is smoking profusely here, I have seen that they do ticket them.

Have a Super Weekend All..


Posted By: raymond on 08/12/11 06:02pm

i have a 460 in my aerbus had to replace the .fuel pump at 50000 mile.

Posted By: Johnsharpie on 08/15/11 06:33pm

I just replaced the fuel pump (88 southwind fleetwood Ford 460 JD chassis) found it by going trough the pump book at the autoparts store. The top of the fuel assembly had 3 hoses attached to it, the first goes to the fuel rail on the carburetor, the second to the Onan Gen set III fuel pump and last was plugged off (inside and out). Fuel assembly is not the original (courtesy of last owner). So I picked one out that closely ressembled the one I took out. Cost me 53 usd. I did the work.

Posted By: Johnsharpie on 08/15/11 06:47pm

Does it matter if it's carburated or EFI? for the Ignition module to be present?

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/15/11 07:20pm

Hi John...

I don't have the answer for Carb or EFI. The pump you described seems identical to mine as Mine is Fuel injected, and cannot locate the ignition module exactly yet I know it's there. Appt the 29th local sharp mechanic I've been speaking with, will fill me in. He knows his stuff from what we discussed last week. He had a small job to finish then on vacation till the 29th.
What ever we find and fix I will post then. Planning to replace -O2 sensor, -fuel sending unit, -ignition module & -fuel pump. Looks like finishing me between 1st Sept & Sept 6th-7th. Sorry I ain't no help to you now as I just don't know...yet. Meanwhile, it cranks up and runs fine in driveway every day as is.

Many Blessings,


Posted By: blackf3504dr on 08/16/11 05:15am

Freebirdss, before you do anything, have the fuel pressure checked . It's easy for any mechanic to do and will tell you if the fuel pump isn't up to snuff. I bought a fuel pump from Rock Auto on line for a little over $350. plus $24. for a wire stint to go from the three wires on the motor home to four wires on the new pump and installed it myself. I didn't drop the tank but took (many) measurements and cut an access door in the floor to get to it. It wasn't a hard job once I figured out how to release the fuel line connectors.

Mom , Dad , Scooter & K.C ( killer cat )
'96 F350 4dr. Dually, 7.3 5sp.
'92 Holiday Rambler 34'

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/16/11 09:47am

Hi Mom Dad & Scooter...

Your post is exactly what my mechanic mentioned (fuel pressure gauge) so we "could catch the MH in the act when it shuts down.."

It has shut down so many times now (4 total) and add in the fact its 21 years old, I feel it will shut down for good soon. I will need to change out these parts anyway somewhere down the road, so may as well do it all now. There was a new fuel pump created around 1996 or so to replace the factory pump that seems to be the solution as per other posts here & my research.

If you notice other posts, "fuel pump is most common.."

I truly appreciate your posts and all the other posts.

Happy RV'g Mom, Dad & Scooter & Everyone...

Many Blessings..


Posted By: Johnsharpie on 08/16/11 02:13pm

The reason I changed mine was because it was NOT pumping all the way to the front into the carburetor. I am worried that maybe it was the pump itself not suitable for the 460, I mean the fuel has to travel all the way to the front and the pump is very small compared to othe pumps I have installed on other vehicles. Yeah well back to the drawing board.

Posted By: blackf3504dr on 08/17/11 04:46am

When I replaced mine, it had great fuel pressure while running but the check valve in the pump was shot and allowed fuel to drain back into the tank making for hard starting. I knew that the pump was twenty years old and most likely not last much longer so I decided to bite the bullet and replace it while we were home and had the time...

Posted By: dirtyharryo on 08/19/11 02:36pm

Your module is hidden behind the voltage regulator on the passenger side under the hood, look in there and you will see a large steel plate bolted to the firewall it is behind that, put in a new coil to.

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/19/11 03:18pm

Thanks, yet no module behind voltage regulator, already looked at vreg
which is mounted to front frame above radiator. Considering coil replacement as well, yet believe it is newer than the other parts such as new "lifetime wires" were there when we bought it & he mentioned nothing of a new coil as we covered a lot before we bought.

1990 Fleetwood Flair M53 chassis.

Leaving in the hands of this mechanic Monday. Not only is he truthful as he did recommend the "fuel pressure gauge" in fuel line first before doing anything else. Also said to close all windows & vents inside and leave inside engine cover open to see gauge as it will keep the engine hot air out of cabin. He seems to know his stuff, well experienced & knowledgeable. I tried this last week for 10-12 miles and he was right. No hot engine air came inside.
so we may try the gauge first.

Many Blessings,


Posted By: dirtyharryo on 08/19/11 03:32pm

I should have said mounted on the other side of the plate the voltage regulator is mounted to. Like I said it is well hidden.

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/19/11 03:45pm

Thanks again... looking now. I said next Monday yet it will be the 29th when mech comes back from vacation. Had my Monday's mixed up.

Posted By: Freebirdss on 08/19/11 03:50pm

Thanks again... looking now. I said next Monday yet it will be the 29th when mech comes back from vacation. Had my Monday's mixed up. Yes, it is well hidden as I don't see it there. Looked from inside motor compartment also & don't see it. The sites I researched said it was inside fender well drivers side. There are two items there yet cannot tell what the are. Not labeled, just a number 9816

Posted By: spacedoutbob on 08/20/11 12:23am

The TFI module should be mounted to the distributor with 2 screws. It is on my 1989 F250 with the 7.5L engine. You can heat it up with a hair dryer to see if it causes your vehicle to stall.

Bob in Calif.

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