There is always a little slack. If you have trouble unhooking, start the toad, at engine idle put it in a forward gear, apply emergency brake, gear back to park. This will remove the rearward slack that makes pin removal difficult, especially if you parked going up an incline.
this is method I use..I would use the same method with whatever brand of towbar I had..doesn't take any more time, you have to start car and secure it anyway
From their own web site, one of the features they advertise is:
"Tow bar allows you to safely and effectively tow your vehicle behind your RV
All-terrain model features Freedom Latch for quick and easy disconnect in any environment"
the key words here are: FROM ANY ENVIRONMENT I would think that it would include having the toad not on a level position....wouldn't you?
I too am very disappointed in mine. For $900 bucks, am I expecting too much?
Ron
I don't think you are expecting too much. I thought the whole idea behind spending all that money was CONVENIENCE!
It looks like the fancy, expensive, "easy to use" towbar is no more convenient than my $145 fixed-arm adjustable width A-frame towbar!
At least, I have never needed to beat on mine with a hammer!
Sure glad I didn't spend that extra $750 for "convenience". I would be much more than just "disappointed"!
CM1, USN (RET)
2002 Fleetwood Southwind 32V, Ford V10
Toad: 2006 Jeep Rubicon LJ
Other toad: '06 PT Cruiser, Kar Kaddy dolly
Toy: 1977 Dodge W100 CC SWB, 3/4 ton axles & springs
"When seconds count, help is only minutes away!"
Phranc... both Eric and myself are fully aware of what "needs" to be done to get a release. It's just that according to Roadmaster, we shouldn't have to do anything other than lift the levers. While I have not ever used the Demco and Blue Ox products nor do I know of their "friendlier, rebuild/inspection program at FMCA rallies", I do utilize Roadmaster's at every major rv rally we attend. At the Rally in Albuquerque, they actually came around to all the privately owned motor homes parked there and would volunteer to remove, inspect, lube and adjust every Roadmaster tow bar they could find. At other Rallies, Roadmaster always has a large mobile garage that will do the same if you bring in the tow bar. There is NO CHARGE for this service, but the techs will accept tips. On my old tow bar, the arms were the aluminum type and they replaced them with the stainless steel type...again at no charge. I really don't think you can beat this service.
Eric, my Sterling is brand new. I purchased it at Quartzsite last january when my old Sterling had so much slop in the arms that Roadmaster couldn't do anything with it. They gave me a great deal on a new one ($700). This new one, while works much better than the old, it will also hang up if there is the slightest pressure from the toad on one or both of the arms. Seems to me, their advertisement borders on false advertisement and I'm really surprised someone hasn't taken them to court over this.
Ron
* This post was
edited 08/25/11 12:43pm by lanerd *
Ron & Sandie
'08 Safari Simba SBD35 CAT C7
Toad: 2011 GMC Terrain SLT2
Tow Bar: Sterling AT
Toad Brakes: Unified U.S. Gear
TPMS: Pressure Pro
Member of: GS, FMCA, Safari Intl, CAT
phranc... thanks, but I think you missed the point. Roadmaster advertises that the Sterling AT will disconnect in any environment. You shouldn't have to do anything except pull up on the release handles. Obviously, in some cases you have to do much more than that!
lanerd wrote: phranc... thanks, but I think you missed the point. Roadmaster advertises that the Sterling AT will disconnect in any environment. You shouldn't have to do anything except pull up on the release handles. Obviously, in some cases you have to do much more than that!
Ron
I'm thinking it's a mechanical failure or a maintenance issue; more than likely, maintenance. I bought my Sterling used on eBay and it looks new, but I have no idea what it has really gone through.
I've made exactly 6 disconnects with this bar and except for the first, all were on the same trip. The first three worked flawlessly. The 4th failed, the 5th worked and the 6th failed. I had only cleaned and lubed the bar once before any of these attempts.
Perhaps I need to clean and lubricate more often.
I dunno,
Eric
1999 24' Fleetwood Jamboree E350 towing a 2007 Hyundai Elantra
Hi lanerd,,
I got your point and I too think the advertizing is faulty.
But nevertheless , you do have to secure the car before releasing the bar
and pins etc or car will roll away or roll into the coach, unless of course , you are on flat ground.. While you are inside of car , why not take the next step and
move car just that fraction of an inch to take pressure off of bars ? Roadmaster and Blue ox both say if bars bind when attempting to release to start car and move steering wheel back and forth to relieve binding..
All 3 major mfg's of bars , Roadmaster ,Demco and BlueOx make fine , safe products although my next bar will be a BlueOx. Not because of performance , but because they have a better, friendlier rebuild/inspection program at FMCA rallies
IMO, the AT works OK. Only when backward pressure exists,does the release/pins removal become a problem. Start, put in forward, lift levers on AT, pressure released..
Two people make this easier!
lanerd wrote: ...This new one, while works much better than the old, it will also hang up if there is the slightest pressure from the toad on one or both of the arms. Seems to me, their advertisement borders on false advertisement and I'm really surprised someone hasn't taken them to court over this.
Ron
I don't think this is a fair assessment...
I'm very satisfied with my Sterling AT, and can tell how much easier to disconnect when the Jeep is at an odd angle or off camber (compared to the RV). These are scenarios that would normally make it difficult to disconnect many other tow bars, but the Sterling AT releases with ease.
But if you have backward pressure on the tow bar, there isn't much that you can do until you take the pressure off of the pins.
From the Roadmaster website:
"Releasing your towed vehicle is easy with All-Terrain tow bars — even when the tow bar is at a hard angle or the towed vehicle is out of level."
The way I read this (when I first bought my Sterling, and again now as I re-read it), is that the tow bar release levers will work in conditions that would not work with other non-AT tow bars. I didn't expect the pins to release when under presure.
2003 Country Coach Intrigue, Cummins ISL 400
Toad: 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) toad, with just a few mods...
Other rig: 2005 Chevy Silverado 3500 Duramax Dually / Next Level 38CK Fifth-wheel Toy Hauler w/ quads, sand rail, etc...
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