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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Dometic fridge and WFCO power center problem

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Brad T

Missouri

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Joined: 06/25/2008

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Posted: 08/29/11 06:53am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a Dometic RM4223 fridge and a WFCO WF-8725P power center. With shore power plugged in and the fridge on 12v the pc cooling fan runs continually and after an hour or so the 20amp fuse for the fridge blows. If I unplug the shore power everything is ok, fridge keeps cooling of the onboard battery. It also runs ok on LP and 120v. I like to run the fridge on 12v even when on shore power because it does a better job of cooling. I have checked most of the wiring that I can get to without pulling the power center out and opening it up. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Brad


Brad T.
2008 Rockwood 1907 pup
2003 F150 Ford

bigfootford

Fair Oaks, California

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Posted: 08/29/11 07:29am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Brad, the 8725 is a 25amp converter. Your fridge, running on 12vdc will pull over 20..So you have no extra capacity for much else that uses 12vdc, like your batteries.
That poor 8725 is running wide open all the time..Not good for it.

I would not recommend running on 12 vdc even if you had a converter that put out over 45.

I am surprised that your fridge is more efficient on 12vdc because the 12vdc heating element is lower in wattage than your 120vac heating element.

Jim


2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Mich 245/70XDS2's, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260,Lifeline 100ah, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Trimetric, Delorme/laptop, Holux gps rec,led lights, Wave-3 heat.


red31

Bryan

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Posted: 08/29/11 07:43am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I suggest you clean the orifice, burner etc and operate on propane.
12v and 120v are both 125 watt but the 12v is continuous (no thermostat), propane is 1080 BTU or 300 watt.

Why a 10A 12v fridge is blowing a 20A fuse?

http://livinlite.com/pdf/service/refers/RM4223%20Parts.pdf
http://www.gas-refrigerators.com/pdf/RM4223-manual.pdf

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 08/29/11 09:54am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Read below from the RM 4223 manual.
1. AC/LP/DC refers are NOT to be run on DC only when camped even tho the owners manual does not state this. The DC mode is for IN TRANSIT operation only so the chassis alterantor can supply the needed voltage/amps to run the refer. NOTE that on DC there is NO tstat controlled operation. That is because the 12 volt DC element is a "maintainer" of cold, NOT a cold drop element.
2. The 12 volt element pulls 10.5 amps dc current
3. The refer IF connected to use the 12 volt option is supposed to be connected direct to the battery and NOT thru a Power Converter or the coach 12 volt fuse panel system. This is also from the installation manual


IMPORTANT:
To prevent the refrigerator from being left on and
draining the battery when the vehicle's engine is not
running and charging the battery, it is recommended
that an automatic cutout relay be installed between
the battery and the refrigerator toggle switch so that
the refrigerator will not draw current when the
vehicle ignition is switched off. Alternatively, a suitable
plug and receptacle should be installed in the
12V supply line so that the refrigerator can be disconnected
from the supply, as necessary
In the case of the RM4223, the refrigerator works continuously
on DC operation (no thermostat control).
11. 12 VOLT DC CONNECTION
The 125 watt heating element operates the cooling unit
when the refrigerator is connected to the battery of the
vehicle. It has a current rating of about 10.5 amps; therefore,
the wiring from the battery to the refrigerator must
be of heavy enough gauge to carry this load satisfactorily
without undue voltage drop. To ensure this, the minimum
size of wire to be used is 14 A.W.G. The terminal
block for connecting the 12V supply cable to the battery
is positioned at the lower lefthand corner of the rear side
(G, FIG. 8). From this terminal, the connection to the
battery should be made using ring-type clamps with
tightening bolts to ensure good contact with the battery
terminals. Polarity is not important, therefore it does not
matter which wire leads to which battery terminal.
DO NOT connect lights or any other electrical components
to the same circuit that is used by the refrigerator

bigfootford

Fair Oaks, California

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Posted: 08/29/11 10:35am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

red31 wrote:

I suggest you clean the orifice, burner etc and operate on propane.
12v and 120v are both 125 watt but the 12v is continuous (no thermostat), propane is 1080 BTU or 300 watt.

Why a 10A 12v fridge is blowing a 20A fuse?

http://livinlite.com/pdf/service/refers/RM4223%20Parts.pdf
http://www.gas-refrigerators.com/pdf/RM4223-manual.pdf


Good catch Red31...I was figuring the newer bigger fridges that have 250 watt + etc, elements.

So Brad's RM4223 would be around 10 amps on the converter like Red31 said.

Cleaning the burner, orfice is a good idea and run on propane.

At 10 amps output from the converter it will be running the cooling fans.

Are you sure that the fridge is the only thing on that 20 amps fuse?

If it is then I would suspect that the 12vdc heating element is going bad.

You need a digital meter to read the resistance of the heating element or you just get one and try it.

It should read about 12 ohms...If it reads less than 10 I would be replacing it.

Per Red31's link :R<4223 Parts list

Jim

smkettner

Southern California

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Posted: 08/29/11 10:40am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If it cools better on 12v you might need to adjust or fix the thermostat that controls propane or 120v cooling modes.

Check the 12v amp draw is within specs. It might cool better on 12v because there is a problem with the 12v system. I suspect the 12v coil might need replacement.


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MrWizard

Traveling

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Posted: 08/29/11 01:36pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

it should NOT do a better job of cooling on 12v

you have a problem, the converter voltage is too high ?

the 12v heater too large ?

the heater is a resistive load so higher voltage equals higher amp draw by the 12v heater

LP is Normally the best method creating the most cooling

you keep blowing fusses, but you might be doing damage to the cooling unit with the increased heat level caused by the over heating 12v heating element

switch to 120v or LP and check the converter out put, and replace the 12v heating element


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