The BEST hitching systems REMOVES the ball coupler from the equation as the pivot point of the trailer
The three "premium" hitches out there, Pull-right, Hensley Arrow, and ProPride (3P) all work on this relatively simple principle.
The general idea of the premium hitches is to lock the trailer tongue to the ball in a rigid position and project the pivot point forward of the ball coupler. There is no torsional movement of the coupler on the ball in these three premium hitches. The pivot point is projected forward, and the axis movement on the ball is stopped.
Axis movement is ELIMINATED because the Ball coupler serves no other function other than to couple the trailer to the hitch/TV. With all three of the premium hitches sway is eliminated because of this Rigid connection the hitch creates to the TT and the TV.
Everything Else
The three hitches mentioned above do not rely on friction to control sway. They rely on pretty simple physics that eliminate sway start points such as the ball coupler itself from the equation.
Reese DC, Equal-i-zer, ETC rely on FRICTION of some type to reduce or eliminate sway. Some do it better than others. Reese DC and the Equal-i-zer (and their clones) do a great job when properly set up. However, EVERYTHING other than Hensley Arrow, 3P, and Pull-Right still rely on the ball coupler as the pivot point, this pivot point is a source of sway.
Are these "lesser" hitches inherently unsafe? NO they are not. Any WD hitch with sway control is much more safe than a TT simply dropped on a draw bar and coupler.
Personal Rant on Friction Sway Control
keithinspace wrote: Friction sway control is worthless. I wouldn't bother to waste the money.
This is an entirely subjective statement supported only by subjective data related to ones personal experience.
It is like saying "rear drum brakes are worthless." It is simply not true.
I have dual friction sway control, traditional W/D hitch, and I have NO intentions of upgrading, why? After everything that I just said about the physics of the premium hitches, why would I settle for anything less?
Because I am satisfied with the experience.... and there are HUNDREDS of THOUSANDS of us out there who are satisfied with this type of sway control. (as there has been for the last 50 plus years)
Are there more expensive options out there? Yes. Are they better? Depends on the USER.
I will put my PROPERLY installed W/D hitch and Dual Friction sway control up against ANY improperly installed W/D hitch with or without integrated sway control (Hensley, 3P, Dual-Cam, etc. etc.)
Is it the best? For me, yes it is. I am happy that I learned the mechanics of my "Cheap Trunnion W/D Hitch" installed it correctly and added the Dual Sway control.
I personally, am not a fan of the projected pivot point from a maneuverability stand point, same reason I prefer a TT to a Fiver.
No modern W/D hitch and sway control device is JUNK. Some like DC, some like Equalizer, some like Hensley, some like add on friction sway control. Just like people, everyone has an opinion. Simply buy what design you like, match it to your trailer, and learn how to use it properly.
To the OP
Which W/D hitch with some sort of sway control is not nearly as important as actually installing the equipment correctly. All of the W/D hitches effectiveness is nullified if not installed properly.
It is not hard to do, simply grab some tools and the install instructions and make it right. Make sure you have some sort of sway control, even if it is a simple sway bar (they do actually work if installed correctly)
Don't forget to get a good proportional brake controller. This is a much more important safety issue.
Thanks!
TT: 1995 Layton 2910
Tow Vehicle: 1999 F-350, v10, 2wd, Crew Cab, Dually
Hitch: Draw-Tite Trunnion WD Hitch
Sway Control: Valley dual friction sway control
Brake Control: Tekonsha Voyager
"It's Kind of Fun To Do The Impossible"
~Walt Disney~
Reese DC...rely on FRICTION of some type to reduce or eliminate sway.
I do not agree with this. While there is some friction, the primary design element is more spring force on the bars from the bend/angle on the cam lobe.
Otherwise, a great post!
A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009 2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS 2012 VW Passat TDI
Certainly your best choice is the high end such as Hensley or ProPride, but if you don't want to spend several grand, then my vote is for the Equal-i-zer. I have been very happy with it. Certainly the Dual Cam and the newer Centerline offer as good performance, but I think those two have some significant drawbacks.
Just reading some of the install nightmares regarding the Dual Cam on this forum would have me running from that thing. One poster recently had a dealer screw up the install and now has permanent holes in his frame from a botched job. No thanks. Give me the no drill install of the Equalizer any day.
THe Centerline is a great idea, but the fact that you have to hook up basically in a straight line is a big concern for me. I didn't use to think so, but I have been in several spots now where a straight ahead hook up was not going to happen. I guess you could just drop it on the ball and pull out until you can get to a straight position, but it is still a bit of a hassle.
jerem0621 wrote: I personally, am not a fan of the projected pivot point from a maneuverability stand point, same reason I prefer a TT to a Fiver.
If you are suggesting that maneuverability with a Hensley Arrow or ProPride hitch is similar to that of a Fiver, I think that is a misconception.
It is correct that these hitches "project" the pivot point about 4' forward when the TT is aligned with the TV.
However, as a yaw angle develops between TV and TT, the "Virtual Pivot Point" moves rearward and to the side.
At a relative yaw angle of about 4 degrees, the VPP has moved about 20" rearward from its most forward position and about 19" to the side of the TV's centerline.
At a relative yaw angle of about 15 degrees or more, the VPP has returned approximately to the location of the ball.
Since most maneuvering involves yaw angles of 15 degrees or more, the pivoting takes place near the location of the ball.
Some Hensley Arrow owners believe maneuverability is actually better than with a conventional hitch due to the added length of the HA placing the ball farther rearward of the TV's rear axle.
Reese DC...rely on FRICTION of some type to reduce or eliminate sway.
I do not agree with this. While there is some friction, the primary design element is more spring force on the bars from the bend/angle on the cam lobe.
I agree with jerem0621.
The Dual Cam design relies on two forces:
1) the force of the cam acting perpendicular to the sloping surface of the bar, and
2) the friction force between cam and bar acting parallel to the sloping surface.
When the effects of friction are included, the yaw-resisting force is about 3-5 times greater than if there were no friction.
The Dual Cam also is different from other friction-based controls in that the yaw-resisting force is considerably less when the trailer is moving toward a centered position than when moving away from center.
From the standpoint of economical hitches there are basically 3 choices:
STANDARD HITCHES
Reese Dual Cam
Equal-i-zer
all other standard w/d hitches with friction sway control
Then there are the
PREMIUM HITCHES
Pullrite
Hensley Arrow
ProPride
The Hensley Arrow and ProPride are what is referred to as 4 bar linkage hitches... In simple terms, these premium anti-sway hitches project the ball pivot point forward under the tow vehicle... Both these hitches provide outstanding towing ability and cost in the area of $2000 - $3000 dollars
Pullrite
IMO, the best towing hitch available today. The Pullrite is essentially a 5th wheel hitch installed UNDER the tow vehicle... The pivot point of the TT is just to the rear of the tow vehicle differential and closely approximates a fifth wheel hitch. The Pullrite is also in the same price range as the Hensley and ProPride...
I used to tow with a Pullrite and it was rock solid under all towing conditions... There were/are several disadvantages to the Pullrite.
1.You have to lower the TV exhaust to clear the hitch
2.In many instances you lose your spare tire storage under the TV...
3.The hitch is somewhat vehicle specific and may or may not transfer over to a new tow vehicle.
4. Because the Pullrite handles very similar to a 5th wheel hitch, it requires exaggerated steering inputs to start the trailer turning. This caused some difficulties in my case, where I have limited room front and back while backing my TT in next to my garage...
The Hensley and ProPride are much more responsive to steering input and therefore easier for me to back in and keep the trailer straight and lined up with the garage... This task was much more difficult with the Pullrite so when it was time for me to upgrade to a hitch with more tongue weight capacity (My Pullrite was the 10K version - 1K tongue weight) I chose the Hensley...
All of the above mentioned hitches will do a good job assuming they are set up properly and are within their ratings... The premium hitches will do a better job, but there are thousands towing safely with the Reese, Equal-i-zer, and standard w/d hitches with friction sway control...
From my perspective, having towed with 3 different types of hitches as mentioned above (Standard w/d w/friction bar, Pullrite, Hensley) I believe that the Pullrite is the best hitch available. True, there are some disadvantages with it, but if I had a house where front to back clearance was not an issue, I would have a 20K Pullrite on my truck today...
Les
2000 Ford F-250SD, XLT, 4X4 Off Road, SuperCab
w/ 6.8L (415 C.I.) V-10/3:73LS/4R100
Banks Power Pack w/Trans Command & OttoMind
Sold Trailer - not RV'ing at this point in time
If you're not going to use it a lot I wouldn't waste the money on a premium set up. I don't know how long are heavy your trailer is but I'm using a cheap Husky bent bar unit with 2 friction sway controls. I usually drive at 62 m.p.h. because I'm using st tires but with a 27 ft. 5600 lb. trailer I never have any trouble with sway and if set up right you can back up with out undoing the anti sway units. If you are pulling a heavy trailer at higher speeds and are going to be using it regular you might want to consider something nore on the premium side but I see a lot of bent bar units with single friction sways on good size trailers out there so they can't be to bad if set up right.
Tom, Kathy, Nikki, & Kelly
Pets: Lady - Texas Heeler, Dinger - Rhodesian Riidgeback Mix
2008 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 5.4 ci 3.73 gears
2008 Dodge Ram SLT Big Horn 4x4 5.7L Hemi 3.92 gears
2007 Jayco Jayfeather EXP 254
Husky W/D, P-3
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