B. BOOMER

lost somewhere in america

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If you've read my first posting "Expect the Unexpected" you know that our transmission died up at Yosemite and that our frig refused to run at a 45+ degree angle ...
OK - we got the camper off the truck at the Ford Dealership in Sonora and it's now level (in their back parking lot).
So we turned the propane back on and attempted to restart the frig, which is a 3 way Norcold. NOPE - it doesn't want to run on LPG. We lit a stove burner to bleed any air out of the line. Doubled checked the propane tanks & connection. STILL A NO GO.
We fired up the genny and tried it on AC. ANOTHER NO.
The fault code says "co no"
We dug out the manual and found the info on fault codes.
It seems we used up our ONE AND ONLY RESET some time back ... and NOW apparently our ONLY recourse is to have it "serviced by an authorized dealer" (or something along those lines) sheesh ONE RESET?! come on - how stingy is that 
"co no" = cooling unit not working
We even took off the outside plates and took a long hard look. But didn't see anything that we could do ourselves. So we put them back on ... and are now debating our options.
Remember the old saying that goes "When it rains, it pours"?
Well, I also have to UPDATE the "UNEXPECTED POST"
* This post was
edited 09/16/11 10:46pm by B. BOOMER *
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JoeChiOhki

Sauvie Island, OR

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I think that code is why alot of people changed over to Dino boards a while back.....
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'1992 Dodge W-250 "Dually" Power Wagon - Club Cab Long Bed 4x4 V8 5.9L gashog w/4.10 Geared axles
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sleepy

Oak Ridge,Tennessee

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This is the fridge that you had parked out of level isn't it?
turn it off... leave it off and drive around for a couple of days... the ammonia will settle... then start it like normal. It needs the shaking from driving around.
That is what most service shops try first.
But charge you a big bill!
2003 Lance 1161,/slideout/AGM batteries/255W Solar/propane generator/Sat dish/2 Fantastic Fans/AC/winter pkg
AirFoil, Trimetric, LED lights, Platcat vent heat
2003GMC K3500 LT/Crewcab/duramax diesel/allison/dually/4x4/OnStar/front reciever mounted spare
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ejmorgan

Dixon, CA

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Here is a link to a previous post describing the "reset" procedure to clear-out the fault code that may get your refer running again.
post
Here is the link to the Norcold document mentioned in the same post.
reset.pdf
Good luck.
Ed
Ed and Susan Morgan
TT -- 2005 Northwood Nash 22H
TV -- 2004 Ford E-350 Extended Van, 6.8L V10, 4-spd. Automatic OD, 3.73 rear axle.
Generator -- Yamaha EF2400iS
Avatar -- Doran Beach, Bodega Bay, CA.
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wnjj

Cornelius, Oregon

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B. BOOMER wrote: It seems we used up our ONE AND ONLY RESET some time back ... and NOW apparently our ONLY recourse is to have it "serviced by an authorized dealer"  (or something along those lines) sheesh ONE RESET?! come on - how stingy is that 
I think the point is if you keep having the fault code you have an issue that needs to be taken care of. Either the fridge has a problem or the operator is doing it wrong. Trying to run it while way out of level is a good example of the second one.
I noticed in your other post that you tried AC after it didn't work on gas. The fridge needs to be level (or nearly so) in order for gravity to circulate the coolant. Whether the heat source is gas or AC doesn't change that.
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sleepy

Oak Ridge,Tennessee

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wnjj wrote: B. BOOMER wrote: It seems we used up our ONE AND ONLY RESET some time back ... and NOW apparently our ONLY recourse is to have it "serviced by an authorized dealer"  (or something along those lines) sheesh ONE RESET?! come on - how stingy is that 
I think the point is if you keep having the fault code you have an issue that needs to be taken care of. Either the fridge has a problem or the operator is doing it wrong. Trying to run it while way out of level is a good example of the second one.
I noticed in your other post that you tried AC after it didn't work on gas. The fridge needs to be level (or nearly so) in order for gravity to circulate the coolant. Whether the heat source is gas or AC doesn't change that.
That is why I suggested shutting it off for a a coupe of days and shaking the ammonia back in to yhr heat zone.
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B. BOOMER

lost somewhere in america

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wnjj wrote:
I think the point is if you keep having the fault code you have an issue that needs to be taken care of. Either the fridge has a problem or the operator is doing it wrong. Trying to run it while way out of level is a good example of the second one.
I noticed in your other post that you tried AC after it didn't work on gas. The fridge needs to be level (or nearly so) in order for gravity to circulate the coolant. Whether the heat source is gas or AC doesn't change that.
wnjj - an interesting comment ...
We honestly don't make it a point to go around "camping" at a 45+ angle. And we were undoubtedly not thinking too clearly at the time - after just witnessing our transmission have a major melt-down!!
Yes we are aware that the RV frigs don't work very well when "unlevel" - although WE'VE never experienced the situation before ourselves. So as you pointed out - it was merely a lesson in futility (or foolishness) to try AC even though it would not run on LPG!! 
We then SHUT it off.
AND did not attempt to RESTART until the Camper was LEVEL again. Hence the NEW post.
But thank you for your reply anyway. Maybe it will help someone else down the road ... you never know
... until it happens to you.
Cheers,
Boomer
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B. BOOMER

lost somewhere in america

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sleepy -
Thank you for your kind advice. (I'm feeling a little beat up here. And increasing stress is beginning to make me a bit cranky )
Your suggestion goes along with one of our thoughts. Seeing as how we've managed to "eat up most of our refigerator/freezer stock" while we've been unexpectedly layed over. We were kicking around just buying a bag of ice & a cooler to get home with, as we only have a few things left that need to be "refrigerated"!!
So we might go ahead & do that and then wait til we finally get home (when the camper is perfectly LEVEL ) and had a good chance to "get all shook up" to try the RESTART one more time.
But I have a feeling that we'll have to go ejmorgan's route ...
That's what I love about the Forums. There is ALWAYS good folks out there who have helpful advice to offer a fellow RVer in need. 
A HUGE Thanks to All. And hope to see EVERYONE on the road sometime.
Prost(in the spirit of Octoberfest),
Boomer
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wnjj

Cornelius, Oregon

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Sorry if my post was too direct. I was honestly trying to help where it seemed you may have been lacking some knowledge because you'd said it had already been reset previously. What I read was that you tried to run it from both power sources. I can't know your state of mind as to why you did.
Since the fridge has set a lockout fault code no amount of level will help it right now. The issue is electronic at this point and it will probably not restart until you do the hard reset. After reading the description it seems fairly easy to do: Short the "reset" pin to ground while the power is on until you hear a click.
Sorry to hear about your transmission woes. I hope the dealer gets it all straightened out. It sounds like your fridge is a simple matter.
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cleary

Fairbanks, Alaska

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Ours is a 2-way, model 611 and may not have the same control board as yours but here is the RESET PROCEDURE that worked on ours.
Chuck
2006 F-350, 4X4, Crew Cab, V-10, Torqshift, Dually. 2008 Okanagan 106UDB. Both 4-wheelers and snowmobiles. KL7AY Our website
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