crankshop1000 wrote: The filter cant fall off and even if it could the suction pipe is down low enough in the pan to still work. I'd bet on the level being off.
If not installed all the way so the retainer tang captures it the filter can fall down. and a filter without a good seal on the tube, the tranny will suck air causing shifting problems.
I've changed fluid/filters on many a 4LE60/80. From the symptoms, my first guess is that either low fluid, or the filter dropped down, the filter wasn't fully seated to start with, or when removing the old filter, the OLD seal was NOT removed and a new on stuck on top, keeping the filter from seating properly. Or, instead of installing a new seal, the old one was left in and reused. Believe me, it can be a real PITA to get the old seal out, it seldom comes out with the old filter, and I've usually had to use a pick to distort the old seal metal band to get it out with a tool. End result of any of the above is that the fluid drains back into the pan, you suck air for a while on startup and no engagement untill you get fluid flowing. And it can be tough to get the filter fully seated with a new seal. it takes a strong push.
when you changed the filter are you sure you got the old seal out? As I mentioned it seldom will come out by itself or with the old filter.
That's what I've said all along, but, black, burnt smelling fluid, is not good, but I would drop the pan, check the filter and try again. If same thing check with a transmission authority. The transmission can be dropped out if your handy, get the coach front high enough, block the engine up, use a floor jack, protecting the pan with piece of wood, unbolt everything, (bell housing bolts, torque converter, drive shaft, have someone steady it, pop out, lower it via floor jack, scoot the thing out from under the coach.
Thanks for all the responses and discussion. I am trying everything suggested to get results but no luck yet. I had the pan off today and the filter was fully inserted into the seal in the valve body. I removed it to be sure that there was no old seal still present, which there was not. I checked all of the wiring while I had it apart but found none bad. I put it back together and let it run long enough to get to full operating temperature. Still no engagement in drive although the RPMs are slightly affected in the forward gears. Reverse will engage but delays about 2-3 seconds. I would be happy if I could get enough torque to be able to drive it for servicing (about 3 miles) and not have to have it towed. Anything I could add to the fluid to accomplish that? I have removed transmisions on floor jacks before but this one is way too high after getting the MH high enough to work under.
Jim E.
Jim E.
'96 Pace Arrow Vision 33L
'95 P30/32 chassis
'96 Tracker 4dr 4WD toad
"Don't tell me I can't do it, just tell me it won't be easy."
"If they don't make what I want I'll make my own."
pacearrow96 wrote: Just to follow up. After diassembling the Auto-Park to eliminate that and replacing both rear calipers (one was stuck but not locked up) I determined the issue was internal. I had it towed to AAMCO and they did a test which confirmed that the trans was toast. All the clutches were toast and the cooler was completely blocked up. I guess the last time out was too much with the age and miles on it combined along with having to shift it manually due to the throttle position sensor not working. I'm going out in 10 days for a week for the first time since last April due to unemployment and health issues along with the financial considerations until this spring. Thanks for all the suggestions!
How to you plan to operate without a parking brake system?
Just to follow up. After diassembling the Auto-Park to eliminate that and replacing both rear calipers (one was stuck but not locked up) I determined the issue was internal. I had it towed to AAMCO and they did a test which confirmed that the trans was toast. All the clutches were toast and the cooler was completely blocked up. I guess the last time out was too much with the age and miles on it combined along with having to shift it manually due to the throttle position sensor not working. I'm going out in 10 days for a week for the first time since last April due to unemployment and health issues along with the financial considerations until this spring. Thanks for all the suggestions!
* This post was
edited 04/13/12 02:00pm by pacearrow96 *
The tranny is burnt toast ! But you know that.
I have the same tranny in my Flair. If you slide the tranny off the jack and onto the floor, it will come out the side w/ the MH raised some.
3 miles? A 1/2 ton truck, even a car, and a helper/driver w/ a stretch strap will tow it,.....engine running so driver has brakes. Don't be so determined that nothing can be done !
Rich
'01 31 ft Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 9245 conv, 400 watt inv, 2 12v batts, ammeters, KingDome/sat, Two Oly Cat heaters, and towing a '05 Jeep Liberty, or sometimes towing a Lowe bass boat.
pacearrow96 wrote: I have removed transmisions on floor jacks before but this one is way too high after getting the MH high enough to work under.
I pulled mine by building up 2X6 lumber under the pan, with plywood underneath the pile. Then, slid the trans back on guide pins until it rested on the lumber stack. Then removed one board at a time until it was on the plywood and then sliding it out.
Takes 10 minutes longer than with a floor jack.
Reinstall same way.
NOTE: Any incorrect spelling is intentional to prevent those annoying popups.
84 Barth 30Tag powered by HT502/Thorley/Weiand etc, Gear Vendors OD.
Siamese Calvin and Airedale Hobbes, 4WD Toyota toad
mobilefleet wrote: I betcha the filter has come off inside the transmission......and you also may have double gasketed the filter o-ring that fits on the filter tube. When u remove the old filter the old o-ring usually stays stuck up inside and you have to remove it with a curved pick.
+1. I have also seen more than one filter crack on installation and suck air causing the problems you are describing
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