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Topic: Stabilizer question

Posted By: Sean Boburk on 09/19/11 09:31am

I had a storm bend my front two stabilizers. I think it would be cheaper/better for me to just replace them, as opposed to having my insurance get involved ($250 deductable).

My TT is a flagstaff, and I was talking to another flagstaff owner. He has something where he has a single leg come down from each side of his TT for his stabilizer. It sounds like this setup would take away more of the sway than my vertical ones. Does anyone have any input on this.

If I have to replace them, I would like to upgrade to something that reduces movement more. Does anyone have any more inputs, on something that will not break the bank?? Just looking at doing the front end now, since that is what is bent.

Thanks in advance,
Sean


2011 Flagstaff 29SKBS
2010 F-150 4x4 5.4L
2011 camping days=23 in 9 locations
2012 camping days=4 in 2 locations


Posted By: Wes Tausend on 09/19/11 10:08am

Sean Boburk wrote:

I had a storm bend my front two stabilizers. I think it would be cheaper/better for me to just replace them, as opposed to having my insurance get involved ($250 deductable).

My TT is a flagstaff, and I was talking to another flagstaff owner. He has something where he has a single leg come down from each side of his TT for his stabilizer. It sounds like this setup would take away more of the sway than my vertical ones. Does anyone have any input on this.

If I have to replace them, I would like to upgrade to something that reduces movement more. Does anyone have any more inputs, on something that will not break the bank?? Just looking at doing the front end now, since that is what is bent.

Thanks in advance,
Sean


Sean,

Perhaps some small tripod, quadropod, or large base bottle jacks that must be carried, and placed, separately would be more stable. Here is a $32 Camco jack from Walmart:


I found one at Menards that is a combination bottle jack/4-legged jackstand. Not as handy as built-in jacks of course, but I need to take it out of my pass-through anyway, to get at other things. I use the jack for tire change and to stablize the frame near under my steps which helps the entire TT. The steps themselves also need to be blocked under the bottom one for lowest bounce results.

Wes
...


Days spent camping are not subtracted from one's total.
- 2000 Excursion V-10 - 2000 F-250 CC 7.3L V-8
- 2004 Cougar Keystone M-294 RLS, 6140# tare
- Hensley Arrow - Champion 4000w/3500w gen
- Linda, Wes and Quincy the Standard Brown Poodle
...


Posted By: Dandy on 09/19/11 10:20am

You can weld or bolt scissor jacks to the frame.


2009 GMC 2500HD Crew Z71 / 3.73 / 6.0L
2012 Prime Time Lacrosse 318 BHS Touring
Reese WD System with HP Dual Cam
Factory GMC Brake Controller
Factory Receiver Hitch
Factory Tow Mirrors


Posted By: Terryallan on 09/19/11 10:53am

Sean Boburk wrote:

I had a storm bend my front two stabilizers. I think it would be cheaper/better for me to just replace them, as opposed to having my insurance get involved ($250 deductable).

My TT is a flagstaff, and I was talking to another flagstaff owner. He has something where he has a single leg come down from each side of his TT for his stabilizer. It sounds like this setup would take away more of the sway than my vertical ones. Does anyone have any input on this.

If I have to replace them, I would like to upgrade to something that reduces movement more. Does anyone have any more inputs, on something that will not break the bank?? Just looking at doing the front end now, since that is what is bent.

Thanks in advance,
Sean


. Why would it cost more to get your insurance company involved. IF the damage is less than the deductible. They simply won't pay. If it is more, they pay the balance. Where do you lose?

BTW. Wouldn't this be covered under Comprehensive? My Comp has no deductible for claims such as this. And it does not cause my insurance premium to increase.


Terry & Shay
Coachman Apex 288BH.
04 F150, 5.4, Lariat SuperCab
Lazy Campers



Posted By: lottknox1 on 09/19/11 11:19am

I have 2 friends that added 2 addittional scissor jacks to the frame close to the axles. Pretty simple to install with self tapping screws straight into the frame. Not that expensive and they say they really helped with movement. If you really want to cutdown on movement might want to add these when you replace the ones up front.


2005 Flagstaff 831BHSS
2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty Power Stroke Turbo Diesel
Integrated Brake System
Hensley Arrow
Bodiak Front Hitch



Posted By: Sean Boburk on 09/19/11 11:20am

Terryallan wrote:

Why would it cost more to get your insurance company involved. IF the damage is less than the deductible. They simply won't pay. If it is more, they pay the balance. Where do you lose?

BTW. Wouldn't this be covered under Comprehensive? My Comp has no deductible for claims such as this. And it does not cause my insurance premium to increase.
My fear is, once I make a claim, that even if the value of the claim is less than my deductable, that it will count as a claim against my insurance. I know, after I made a claim against my home for a storm about a year ago...my home owners insurance magically went up in cost. I am trying to avoid an increase in my future insurance cost.

I called my insurance, they said I have a $250 deductable for storm/wind damage, and $500 for collision.

Sean

* This post was edited 09/19/11 05:46pm by Sean Boburk *


Posted By: wbwood on 09/19/11 01:19pm

I wouldn't claim it on the insurance either. It is a known fact that insurance companies will raise your rates if you make claims. They might not do it on the first claim. Why would he want to go through the hassle of getting the insurance company involved if the deductible is higher any way?

A coworker had his house broken into and between the damage and stolen items, he went through the insurance company. He has the same company for both auto and home. His home insurance didn't go up, but his auto did. Have no idea why, but they managed to stick it to him somehow.


Brian
2013 Thor Chateau 31L
ACME Tow Dolly
2014 Ford Focus(Toad)



Posted By: willald on 09/19/11 01:51pm

As already said, don't even bother getting insurance involved. You can easily replace both front stabilizers for less than your deductible, so there is no need to involve insurance.

A few years ago I installed a third set of stabilizer jacks on our trailer between the axles to eliminate bounce that the tires/suspension allow. I used BAL C Jacks, which is a nice upgrade over standard scissor jacks in many cases, I highly recommend them. Got a pair of those, along with the support beam/connecting channel BAL offers to go between them if needed, and it all costed right around $100 IIRC.

If I had to replace the scissor jacks on my trailer, thats exactly what I'd replace them with (BAL C jacks). They are much better at preventing side to side movement than scissor jacks.


Will & Angela
2 children that love camping, Stephen & Allison
2012 FR Georgetown 351DS on F53 (V10) Chassis
Our Rig


Posted By: Huntindog on 09/19/11 03:17pm

If you want an upgrade, check out the Lippert power stabilizing jack system. Push a button and the stabilizer legs lower. In the case of uneven ground, the leg that makes contact first stops until the other leg contacts the ground and then they both lower equally. This makes it impossible to rack the frame.
They aren't cheap as a retrofit at 500.00 each. You would want two. one for the front and one for the rear.
When buying as part of a new TT they are a lot cheaper. I won't ever have a T without them again.

* This post was edited 09/19/11 04:59pm by Huntindog *


Huntindog
2010 Palomino Sabre 30BHDS
TWO bathrooms...No waiting!
MICHELIN XPS RIBS LRE
2011 Silverado Big Dually 3500 4x4 CC D/A
EQUALIZER Hitch
100% BOONDOCKING
Check out Rusty and her pups at www.bluecollarbrittanys.com



Posted By: Wes Tausend on 09/19/11 04:35pm

...

Of note, the scissor jacks (or Bal C jacks) actually do have a fairly high degree of resistance in one direction, but very poor laterally to this direction. In consumer interest, if the TT manufacturers were paying attention, they could install the cheap scissor jacks in 45 degree angles, each bolt-head screw drive facing the outer TT corner.

In the above case two of the jacks would be mounted laterally to the other two, and fore-and-aft/side-to-side movement would be angularily resisted by all four jacks. This would all be of no extra cost to the manufacturer that normally mounts them facing the side which allows a distinct fore-and-aft bending. The only cost would be the necessity to follow good engineering practices.

The result would still not likely be as stable as more sturdy jacks, but better.

Wes
...


Posted By: LarryJM on 09/19/11 05:25pm

Wes Tausend wrote:

Sean Boburk wrote:

I had a storm bend my front two stabilizers. I think it would be cheaper/better for me to just replace them, as opposed to having my insurance get involved ($250 deductable).

My TT is a flagstaff, and I was talking to another flagstaff owner. He has something where he has a single leg come down from each side of his TT for his stabilizer. It sounds like this setup would take away more of the sway than my vertical ones. Does anyone have any input on this.

If I have to replace them, I would like to upgrade to something that reduces movement more. Does anyone have any more inputs, on something that will not break the bank?? Just looking at doing the front end now, since that is what is bent.

Thanks in advance,
Sean


Sean,

Perhaps some small tripod, quadropod, or large base bottle jacks that must be carried, and placed, separately would be more stable. Here is a $32 Camco jack from Walmart:


I found one at Menards that is a combination bottle jack/4-legged jackstand. Not as handy as built-in jacks of course, but I need to take it out of my pass-through anyway, to get at other things. I use the jack for tire change and to stablize the frame near under my steps which helps the entire TT. The steps themselves also need to be blocked under the bottom one for lowest bounce results.

Wes
...


I LIKE your thinking and what you showed is all I use now and get a rock solid trailer and have even removed the factory installed Stab jacks that went to the dump about 2 years ago. BTW what I'm using now is what I got for my prior TT almost 30 years ago and my estimate will they will last at least another 50 years with no maintenance needed. If you get the proper pressure on what you showed it's almost like have the trailer on cinder blocks like mobile homes often use.

As far as convenience using my electric tongue jack I find using what you showed actually easier than messing with the factory jacks.


Larry


2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL



Posted By: Sean Boburk on 09/19/11 05:43pm

I guess I was talking about something like the bal C chocks mentioned above by Will. Do these work better than the standard scissor chocks (pic is from the used TT section at a local RV dealer)?? Or am I just looking at spending more money for the same performance?


* This post was last edited 09/19/11 06:13pm by Sean Boburk *


Posted By: Gene&Ginny on 09/19/11 07:05pm

Sean Boburk wrote:

... something where he has a single leg come down from each side of his TT for his stabilizer. ...
This is what I have and it is quite stable. You can get it here




Gene and DW Ginny
2008 Toyota 4Runner 4.7L V8 w/factory towing option
2002 Sunline Solaris Lite T2363

Reese Dual Cam Straight Line HP Sway Control
Proud member of the Sunline Club


Posted By: Sean Boburk on 09/19/11 07:38pm

Gene&Ginny wrote:

Sean Boburk wrote:

... something where he has a single leg come down from each side of his TT for his stabilizer. ...
This is what I have and it is quite stable. You can get it here
Can each leg be lowered individually, in case the TT is not on flat land?


Posted By: Gene&Ginny on 09/19/11 09:02pm

Yes, there is a hex head on each side to lower each leg with a crank or in my case a 9volt DeWalt drill.

I should add, the whole crosspiece bolts to the frame rails on each side. Fairly easy to bolt on after the holes are drilled. Maybe it will even match the holes from your old, bent stabs.


Posted By: willald on 09/20/11 10:01am

Sean Boburk wrote:

I guess I was talking about something like the bal C chocks mentioned above by Will. Do these work better than the standard scissor chocks (pic is from the used TT section at a local RV dealer)?? Or am I just looking at spending more money for the same performance?


..If you're asking if C jacks work better than standard scissor jacks, then YES, they do. Here's why/how:

Scissor jacks make great leveling/lifting jacks (although reality is you really can't lift with them at the corners of the trailer without risking frame damage). The bad thing about them, though, is that they do not provide much stability from fore/aft or side to side movement. The more you extend them, the less stability they provide in this sense.

This is why many people use large blocks under scissor jacks, to keep from having to extend them very far. This is also why its not uncommon to see stabilizer bars (like Steadyfast, JT strongarms, etc.) attached to scissor jacks, this give them more stability. I made a set of stabilizer bars similar to Steadyfast, have them attached to all 4 of my scissor jacks. Was a huge improvement.

C jacks provide much more stability at least in one direction - side to side. They also have a much smaller profile when retracted (provide more ground clearance), so they're less prone to getting scraped than a scissor jack. That is why I prefer them over scissor jacks.

Like I said before, if tomorrow I was forced to replace all of our scissor jacks, I'd order two sets of BAL C jacks and be done with it.

Will


Posted By: Wes Tausend on 09/21/11 02:06am

...

Larry,

It's good you can verify that the jackstand type is more stable. It makes sense that it would be. Just the one jackstand/bottle-jack combo, under the frame, near my steps, steadies my camper significantly not only preventing "entry bounce", but by also resisting fore-and-aft movement. I can only imagine how nice four of them would be.

You did seem to imply that you could use the electric tongue jack to lift the TT up on the rear two pre-adjusted stands, and then lower the TT tongue back down on the front two, for effort-free stablizing. That how you do it?
====================================================================

Will,

At first I was thinking that Bal C jacks would be just as flimsy as scissor jacks, because they work on the same principle. But, as you have made clear, they are different. The Bal C jacks have two less joints in them to allow unwanted fore-and-aft play.

On my last TT (Coachmen), there were two Bal C jacks on one end and two scissor jacks on the other. It seemed to work OK but we still got an unwanted fore-and-aft movement. Some people reduce this by block-clamping the tires together, but, like Larry says, nothing will beat large-base jackstands except cement blocks.

I had already purchased the jackstand/bottle-jack combo prior to my current TT, but the 11 inch minimum height would not fit under the old TT, so I carried a small floor jack for tire troubles. But the jackstand/bottle-jack combo Menard sale deal was too good to return it and it does work great under our newer, taller TT. We are making good use of it now. It stores first-out in the pass-through, ready for tire trouble, so comes out first during camping set-up and further earns it's keep, under the TT, reducing structure movement near the main entry.

Below is an identical combo unit from Alltrade Tools:


A 2 minute youtube video demonstrates how it works.

Wes
...


Posted By: willald on 09/21/11 10:56am

Wes Tausend wrote:

At first I was thinking that Bal C jacks would be just as flimsy as scissor jacks, because they work on the same principle. But, as you have made clear, they are different. The Bal C jacks have two less joints in them to allow unwanted fore-and-aft play.

On my last TT (Coachmen), there were two Bal C jacks on one end and two scissor jacks on the other. It seemed to work OK but we still got an unwanted fore-and-aft movement.


Well, to be clear:

C jacks are very good at eliminating movement, in the direction they are mounted. Meaning, in the picture shown above, and the way they are typically mounted pointing 'outward', they will eliminate side-to-side movement, not so much fore/aft.

If you wanted to eliminate fore/aft movement with these, you'd need to mount them pointed long-ways, parallel with the chassis, if that makes sense. I've seen some trailers where they mount two C jacks one way, two the other, to take care of movement in both directions. Not a bad idea, as long as its done so that you can get to the jacks easily enough to deploy/retract them.

But, yes, either way, C jacks are a nice upgrade over scissor jacks because of how they prevent movement better (not to mention their lower profile as I already mentioned). One day I may well just pull off all the scissor jacks on my TT, and replace them with C jacks. I'd no longer need the 'home-made' stabilizer bars I have on the scissor jacks, then.

Quote:

Some people reduce this by block-clamping the tires together, but, like Larry says, nothing will beat large-base jackstands except cement blocks.....


You know, I've always thought of Larry's approach with the 4 large base jack-stands, as something straight out of the Fred Flintstone era, if you know what I mean. Just seems so old-school, and that there HAS to be a better way than the methods that were used 50 years ago, haha. However, I can see where for some folks it could well work.

My big problem with it (Larry's jackstand approach) is, I'm afraid the way you have to put so much weight on those jacks in places the manufacturer really did NOT intend you to be putting weight/pressure, that you could eventually do some serious frame damage. Especially on many trailers built today that have lightweight (read: flimsy) frames underneath them. That, and many trailers have things in the way (i.e., a gas line) that would make putting the jacks in some from the ends like JarryM does, impossible.

The 10" I-beam chassis on my trailer probably would be OK with the weight, but the gas line that runs underneath the I beam on one side makes LarryJM's approach not an option for me (at least not without rerouting the gas line or other major modifications that I'm not going to do) Otherwise, I could definitely be tempted to try it out one day just to see.

Will


Posted By: Sean Boburk on 09/21/11 03:50pm

Well, talked to someone at the dealership, and he said the C jacks are more stable than the scissor jacks. He said the one piece unit is more stable than the C jacks...so that is what i ordered. Should be in tomorrow.

This is the type I ordered.



Posted By: aquarious on 09/21/11 06:44pm

Be carefull about enquireing about your coverage. Some insurance companies treat an enquirery as a claim I found this the hard way . My stick home burned and after paying for the damage my insurance was canceled. When I asked why I was told that I had too many claims. I had only 2 claims in 20 years but I found that they had counted 4 inquiries about wind and hail damage as claims. Getting back to stabilizers, I crushed both front stabs and I replaced them with 3 ton scissor jacks from Wallyworld. I will not crush them any time soon. Ed


Posted By: LarryJM on 09/22/11 02:57am

Wes Tausend wrote:

...

Larry,

It's good you can verify that the jackstand type is more stable. It makes sense that it would be. Just the one jackstand/bottle-jack combo, under the frame, near my steps, steadies my camper significantly not only preventing "entry bounce", but by also resisting fore-and-aft movement. I can only imagine how nice four of them would be.

You did seem to imply that you could use the electric tongue jack to lift the TT up on the rear two pre-adjusted stands, and then lower the TT tongue back down on the front two, for effort-free stablizing. That how you do it?
====================================================================


Wes
...


Yes I kept my four screw type jacks when I traded in my 1981 TT in 2007 on the current trailer I have now that came with the standard stabilizer jacks at the very front and end of the trailer. The first time I used them I was very unhappy with the stability and bounce in the trailer. Since I already had the old screw type jacks I decided to see if they would help. After a little experimenting I found by putting them in about midway between the rear and front axles to the front/rear of the trailer I got a much improved stability. Interesting enough is that the front jack is almost under the main door so that solved the entrance bounce issue to boot.

Again with some experimenting I found just like on my last trailer that I owned for over 25 years and put the jacks bascially at the front and back (it was only 25') if you follow the basic directions from even JT Strong add on system, you level then drop the tongue some (I use about 1 to 1 1/2") then put the rear jacks in and snug them up. Then raise the tongue about 1/2" past level to the up position, put in the front jacks then drop the tongue and then just "snug" up the tongue.

The only caveat to this system is if you have a rear bedroom/living area that is active ... i.e. a bunk bedroom with kids moving around. Here you might need another pair of jack stands at the very end which would be put in and somewhat tightened or even leave on the factory jacks to stabilize that area.

To carry all this even further with all the posts about putting too much pressure on these stabilizer jacks and tweaking or twisting the frame I actually used my Sherline tongue scale under my jack stands to measure how much weight with my method I was putting on each jack stand. I measured around 300 to 400lbs on each stand which in no way will damage a decent frame.

I'm no mechanical engineer (Physics and Systems Technology are me or were my formal education areas, but now I'm just an old retired F$$$), but putting the stability about 6 to 8 feet in front and back of the tandem axles seems to be the ideal setup which many have found by simply adding a third set of the typical stabilizer jacks very close to the axles have dramatically improved their stability issues.

The feather in the cap so to speak is that just experimenting with my system is only around a $30 for four jacks aor $60 for eight jacks which is probably less than one typical OEM type jack.

Larry


Posted By: Wes Tausend on 09/22/11 07:47am

LarryJM wrote:

Wes Tausend wrote:

...

Larry,

It's good you can verify that the jackstand type is more stable. It makes sense that it would be. Just the one jackstand/bottle-jack combo, under the frame, near my steps, steadies my camper significantly not only preventing "entry bounce", but by also resisting fore-and-aft movement. I can only imagine how nice four of them would be.

You did seem to imply that you could use the electric tongue jack to lift the TT up on the rear two pre-adjusted stands, and then lower the TT tongue back down on the front two, for effort-free stablizing. That how you do it?
====================================================================


Wes
...


Yes I kept my four screw type jacks when I traded in my 1981 TT in 2007 on the current trailer I have now that came with the standard stabilizer jacks at the very front and end of the trailer. The first time I used them I was very unhappy with the stability and bounce in the trailer. Since I already had the old screw type jacks I decided to see if they would help. After a little experimenting I found by putting them in about midway between the rear and front axles to the front/rear of the trailer I got a much improved stability. Interesting enough is that the front jack is almost under the main door so that solved the entrance bounce issue to boot.

Again with some experimenting I found just like on my last trailer that I owned for over 25 years and put the jacks bascially at the front and back (it was only 25') if you follow the basic directions from even JT Strong add on system, you level then drop the tongue some (I use about 1 to 1 1/2") then put the rear jacks in and snug them up. Then raise the tongue about 1/2" past level to the up position, put in the front jacks then drop the tongue and then just "snug" up the tongue.

The only caveat to this system is if you have a rear bedroom/living area that is active ... i.e. a bunk bedroom with kids moving around. Here you might need another pair of jack stands at the very end which would be put in and somewhat tightened or even leave on the factory jacks to stabilize that area.

To carry all this even further with all the posts about putting too much pressure on these stabilizer jacks and tweaking or twisting the frame I actually used my Sherline tongue scale under my jack stands to measure how much weight with my method I was putting on each jack stand. I measured around 300 to 400lbs on each stand which in no way will damage a decent frame.

I'm no mechanical engineer (Physics and Systems Technology are me or were my formal education areas, but now I'm just an old retired F$$$), but putting the stability about 6 to 8 feet in front and back of the tandem axles seems to be the ideal setup which many have found by simply adding a third set of the typical stabilizer jacks very close to the axles have dramatically improved their stability issues.

The feather in the cap so to speak is that just experimenting with my system is only around a $30 for four jacks aor $60 for eight jacks which is probably less than one typical OEM type jack.

Larry

Larry,

I think that sounds like a good spacing plan. My thought is no matter where they are, these screw jacks should provide some significant improved stability.

I wonder what the minimum height of your screwjacks are? I thought I remembered you mention that these jacks are stackable one time. One of the Walmart reviewers claims they are stackable. Does the screw-shaft just lift out of the top saddle?



The basic stability premise of screw-jackstands is that the TT must either slide across their top, or rock the extra wide base to move laterally in any direction. This is not true for any jacks that mount in a narrow width, on semi-loose hinges. All such jacks can easily rock sideways with very little play in their narrow TT-frame mounting bolts.

Just a single wide-base jack like the previously mentioned jackstand/bottle-jack combo prevents much of this sort of movement on my TT. The TT already can't slide laterally on it, but I suppose the TT could very slightly pivot around the axis of the single point contact. But such pivoting would be in the direction of greatest resistance of the other jacks.

Quote:

My big problem with it (Larry's jackstand approach) is, I'm afraid the way you have to put so much weight on those jacks in places the manufacturer really did NOT intend you to be putting weight/pressure, that you could eventually do some serious frame damage.

Will

Will,

That would always be a concern. I place a square of 2x6 between my jack and my I-frame to distribute the weight. Otherwise, I don't think the screw jacks have to lift very far to prohibit the TT suspension from bouncing. Once tension is taken up, the TT cannot move down any more than snug Bal C, or scissor jacks allow. I suppose if any stabilizer jacks were at the extreme far ends of the frame, the TT frame could still give in the middle enough to slightly bounce on the suspension springs.

Wes
...


Posted By: willald on 09/22/11 11:59am

Hmmm....What about this, for a way to get the best of both 'worlds':

..What if one was to mount a pair of scissor jacks or C jacks to their TT frame, about 6' or so in from the ends, about the same spot where Larry advocates using these screw jacks? Then, deploy them in the same basic way, using tongue jack to put a decent amount of weight on the jacks in the back, then tighten up front jacks.

(That is, assuming nothing would be in your way for mounting jacks that way.)

Wes/Larry, would that not give you the same amount of stability as the screw-jack setup, if not more? And, at the same time give you the same benefits that conventional stabilizer jacks have, in that they stay mounted where they need to be, no need to store them, easier to deploy and retract with a cordless drill, etc? What are your thoughts on that approach?

I guess the scissor or C jack still wouldnt give the same stability as screw jacks, since its joints allow more trailer 'movement' than a simple screw jack would. Maybe, if you used C jacks, and the back two were mounted long-ways to stop fore/aft movement, and front two were mounted pointing outward to stop side to side movement? WOuld that not give you the same stability of screw jacks, without all the hassle of having to store them, setting them up and taking them down, etc?

..Just trying to think of a way to get the stability that a screw jack setup can provide, without the hassle that goes with it, haha.

Will


Posted By: john b on 09/22/11 12:16pm

Gene&Ginny wrote:

Sean Boburk wrote:

... something where he has a single leg come down from each side of his TT for his stabilizer. ...
This is what I have and it is quite stable. You can get it here






We have this type of Jack with the powered version. If they weren't so darned easy to operate I would put my old sizzors back on in a heartbeat as she moves around much more even with steadyfst stabilizers on it.The only difference between this unit & our last one is that C jack system on this one! I also had the "angled" rear scizzors on our last unit & at first had a hard time figuring it out as it felt like it was tailwagging. I removed the angled jacks & installed them in a normal direction and it was gone. If you are well chocked & or have struts the wheel movement should be non existent so no sideways movement of the scizzors at all..IMHO jb

* This post was edited 09/22/11 12:24pm by john b *


2001 F 350 CC PSD 373 rear,auto
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Mr & Mrs and the PUP.


Posted By: opnspaces on 09/22/11 12:52pm

Wes Tausend wrote:


I wonder what the minimum height of your screwjacks are? I thought I remembered you mention that these jacks are stackable one time. One of the Walmart reviewers claims they are stackable. Does the screw-shaft just lift out of the top saddle?

...


I can answer this one Wes as I have, though don't use a set of these. Yes the center shaft and the larger nut visible in the picture just lift out of the top of the stand. There is a matching hex nut shaped socket in the top of the aluminum stand that the shaft and nut drop into. Once inserted into the stand, the socket holds the hex nut stationary so you can screw the shaft up and down.


1996 Suburban 4x4. 350, 4.10 3/4 ton
2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH
1986 Coleman Columbia Popup.


Posted By: mikeintn on 04/03/12 09:50am

Anyone ever use these? Looks like it should work, but you never know. Better video


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1998 32 ft Tiffin Allegro
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2009 Mini Cooper S Toad


Posted By: DE88ROX on 04/03/12 07:36pm

Wes Tausend wrote:

Sean Boburk wrote:

I had a storm bend my front two stabilizers. I think it would be cheaper/better for me to just replace them, as opposed to having my insurance get involved ($250 deductable).

My TT is a flagstaff, and I was talking to another flagstaff owner. He has something where he has a single leg come down from each side of his TT for his stabilizer. It sounds like this setup would take away more of the sway than my vertical ones. Does anyone have any input on this.

If I have to replace them, I would like to upgrade to something that reduces movement more. Does anyone have any more inputs, on something that will not break the bank?? Just looking at doing the front end now, since that is what is bent.

Thanks in advance,
Sean


Sean,

Perhaps some small tripod, quadropod, or large base bottle jacks that must be carried, and placed, separately would be more stable. Here is a $32 Camco jack from Walmart:


I found one at Menards that is a combination bottle jack/4-legged jackstand. Not as handy as built-in jacks of course, but I need to take it out of my pass-through anyway, to get at other things. I use the jack for tire change and to stablize the frame near under my steps which helps the entire TT. The steps themselves also need to be blocked under the bottom one for lowest bounce results.

Wes
...


Used a set of those on my PUP and no matter what I did I still got major movement in the trailer (12' box) The PUP had built in stabs but I used the "jack stands" on the front. For some reason, the powers that be at Rockwood/Flagstaff thought the front ones should be inside the frame about 12" and point towards the tongue. Never really made sense to me because it was really narrowing the stance. Looked pigeon toed.

One of the many things i'm looking forward to in the new TT is the simple and quick stabs that I can run down with the cordless! Had it set up in the drive with little movement.

But I do like the idea of adding a stab by the wheels to reduce entry/exit movement. Will have to see how it performs without in the real world first I guess. Do you have one on both sides of the TT or just by the axle on the awning side?


TV- 2010 GMC Sierra Z71 EXT. cab
TT- 2012 Starcraft Autumn Ridge235fb




Posted By: Wes Tausend on 04/04/12 10:35pm

DE88ROX wrote:

Wes Tausend wrote:

Sean Boburk wrote:

I had a storm bend my front two stabilizers. I think it would be cheaper/better for me to just replace them, as opposed to having my insurance get involved ($250 deductable).

My TT is a flagstaff, and I was talking to another flagstaff owner. He has something where he has a single leg come down from each side of his TT for his stabilizer. It sounds like this setup would take away more of the sway than my vertical ones. Does anyone have any input on this.

If I have to replace them, I would like to upgrade to something that reduces movement more. Does anyone have any more inputs, on something that will not break the bank?? Just looking at doing the front end now, since that is what is bent.

Thanks in advance,
Sean


Sean,

Perhaps some small tripod, quadropod, or large base bottle jacks that must be carried, and placed, separately would be more stable. Here is a $32 Camco jack from Walmart:


I found one at Menards that is a combination bottle jack/4-legged jackstand. Not as handy as built-in jacks of course, but I need to take it out of my pass-through anyway, to get at other things. I use the jack for tire change and to stablize the frame near under my steps which helps the entire TT. The steps themselves also need to be blocked under the bottom one for lowest bounce results.

Wes
...


Used a set of those on my PUP and no matter what I did I still got major movement in the trailer (12' box) The PUP had built in stabs but I used the "jack stands" on the front. For some reason, the powers that be at Rockwood/Flagstaff thought the front ones should be inside the frame about 12" and point towards the tongue. Never really made sense to me because it was really narrowing the stance. Looked pigeon toed.

One of the many things i'm looking forward to in the new TT is the simple and quick stabs that I can run down with the cordless! Had it set up in the drive with little movement.

But I do like the idea of adding a stab by the wheels to reduce entry/exit movement. Will have to see how it performs without in the real world first I guess.

>>>>Do you have one on both sides of the TT or just by the axle on the awning side?<<<<



I actually just bought some screw-jack stands (as shown above) off season to use this coming year, along with a power tongue jack, like Larry does. What I had been using when this thread first appeared was my tire-change hydraulic jack identical to this Alltrade Tools Jack:


In the past, I have taken this hydraulic jack out of the storage compartment when I arrived at a campsite and conveniently stored it, bearing weight, under the frame near the centered entry steps, and wheels, on the awning side. The far side had no adjacent jack, but this single jack was a tremendous help for entry bounce and general stability since it did equally resist fore-aft movement too, unlike the C-jack/scissor jack combo.

Now we have a different camper with two doors, so I may modify this with the new stackable screw-jack stands. However I will still need to remove the hydraulic jack for better compartment access and may incorporate it again too. The hydraulic jack is always stored first out in case of tire trouble, but it is in the way of other compartment access at camp, unless taken out anyway.

Wes
...


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