Over the Summer while I had less than 20 projects going I bought an 1977 Road Ranger 18' TT.
This is an upgrade from our TC that I MADE fit our Tundra a few years back. We now have 2 dogs and we want some room to read and such.
I also go on a lot of 3-4 day ski trips starting as the season opens till it closes.
We purchased "Diddums" for $800 knowing he would need lots of work.
As the weather cooled I started in on him this week.
These are all I have for original picks
we we saw this in a local guys yard we knew all 4 corners were bad.
Notice how low the black and Grey tanks are, I'll be removing the Grey and switching the black from E-W configuration to N - S, and the added 4"+ from going SOA will help also.
Above front window was ZERO structure, lots of rot.
EVERY marker light had water streaks on wood and a few even sported some algae
2 14" vents, the one not in the bathroom was history, new 2x4 all the way across
The WX started turning for the worse, I needed to strip the roof so it could fit into my garage
94 3/4" to seam at the top of the door frame
95+ to top of camper
This should help out, WOW old tires, lots of cracks, they MAY be OEM
looks to be VERY tight
Bonus was a few chewed up wires
Things to ponder:
(We are adding 2 bunks so 4 adults can sleep comfortable, a couch/ bed and a fold down from the roof shelf bed.
*We are dropping the shower, for the VERY few time we may use it, we will still have the outside shower, but usually spending $5-7 at a truck stop is the best.
*We will have a 23 gal VS the 45 gal fresh H2O tank it came w/.
*adding a 7 gal RV anti freeze tank for the toilet in the winter
*110V drier for wet ski clothes
*Plan on running a 5K generator "in a box" in the back of TV inside topper shell.
*Ditching poor functioning Magic chef and getting Engel portable 40.
?? will 4 adults on one side mess it all up does it have to be 2 per side.
How much will I miss the shower
Any reason for attempting to "duct" air around a 18' TT
Has anyone ever added some steel to strengthen the roof up a bit, perhaps even the entry door frame.
That is all for now on day 3 have all sides stripped of alum, working on material list and local used parts sourcing.
Thanks for your time.
05 Tundra 4x4
1976' SIX PAC, cut to size and function.
$800 1977' Road Ranger, not yet road worthy (AUG '11')
I think I would want the generator in the trailer, so that when you are out running around in the truck, or away from the trailer, you can still run the generator.
Why not use a Olympic Catalytic Heater?
I would not want such a small fresh water tank, especially if you plan on dry camping. You are really limiting yourself, but if weight is a huge concern - it will help reduce the weight.
Once the trailer is level, then 4 people - 700 - 800 pounds move to sleep on one side, it might change the level, and then the refrigerator will not be level anymore. Because the ammonia needs to return to the boiler for it to work correctly, front to back level is a little more critical than side to side level. So putting two bunks on each side makes more sence to me.
Or one bunk near the end wall, and another in sort of a L shape?
In my motorhome, I ordered it with 3 captains chairs (drivers and passenger in the front, with a third chair 4' behind the passenger seat, and dinette table that folds up agaist the wall while traveling) because the dinette is so uncomfortable in most RV's. Since you are going a little un-conventional, might look into alternative seating too. How about one bunk being about 20" off the floor, with a thick pad against the wall, so it acts like the back of a couch? Perhaps something that can fold out, or fold away, and when folded out might provide a little storage space?
I have a 6,000 Btu Olympic Catalytic heater, it keeps my well insulated 30' Bounder toasty warm when it is around 30F outside, and I run the furnace a small amount if it is coler than that. This saves a lot on battery power. It helps that I have Maxx Air covers on the vents, so no rain/snow can get in, and I can leave them open all the time.
Fantastic fan in the bathroom is a great idea.
You might want to mount the batteries in a warmer than normal location, also away from theifs. This will assist in their best output on winter nights. Or consider AGM batteries, that do not require any venting, can be mounted in a warm area, such as under the dinette or couch.
Yes I would run small ductwork to each room in the 18' trailer, and run ducts away from the furnace, so that the cold air is directed back, and it all gets mixxed up. You can use 4" dryer vent hose, or something similar. I would not bother insulating the ductwork, that is sort of pointless, as you actually want the heat out of the ductwork.
Stove with a oven has always been my choise. Baking cornbread or broil toast, my favorite uses for the oven. Not to mention a pizza stone can be used to make Pizza, then the heat from the oven will help warm the RV for a short time.
Good luck on your project. You might need some 4 wheel dollies to get the RV back out of the garage once finished. Just put those in the area that the tires used to be in. Looks like you will need new tires anyway.
That's amazing...my hat is off to you for tackling a project like that. It wouldn't be for me...
I would much rather be using my rig most of the time, rather than working on it.
You must have just wanted a project and must enjoy that kind of thing, because otherwise it makes no sense (at least to me) given the fact that you probably could buy an very decent, functional unit for much less than what you will spend rehabbing that one.
Good luck with it and post pictures of the progress and finished project.
I agree with questioning the financial gain of this project, but again, I admire you for tackling it....it will be fun!
As for sleeping 4 adults to one side...if you've got the leveling jacks set, the TT should be pretty stable, so it won't matter.
I'd consider keeping the inside shower...even if you make the bathroom into a shower, with drain in floor area, the way many TCs have it. You plan to do quite a bit of winter camping (skiing), and you won't want to take any outside showers then! And just because you don't plan on using it, doesn't mean that you won't need it some time.
Keep those pictures coming....we love pictures
Bill & Claudia / DD Jenn / DS Chris / GS MJ Dogs: Sophie, Abby, Brandy, Kahlie, Annie, Maggie, Tugger & Beau "> RIP: Cookie, Foxy & Gidget @ Rainbow Bridge.">
2000 Winnebago "Minnie" 31C, Ford V-10
Purchased April 2008"> FMCA# F407293 The Pets
For winter boondocking, building is probably the way to go.
Showers... Depends if the space could be used better for something else. Like storage or a wet winter clothes drying area. AND if there's available showers. It's been a while since I've downhill skied, but is there showers you can use at the hill? Or are you talking X-country skiing?
Also, I would look at getting rid of some windows. Like the the small one by the bunk. And possibly others. Less holes = less heat loss. ALSO, I would spend time to make sure the wiring is fixed properly, and then spray foam the walls & roof. Possibly even the floor, although I'd use conduit or something for the wires.
I like the smaller fresh water tank idea. That way you can make sure it's insulated properly. also, you can always carry extra water in the truck if need be.
My #1 concern would be keeping that trailer as heat efficient as possible. & I'd look at hardpiping in a proper catadyne heater (like big buddy) but in a location that it is Permanent & out of the way. Or a battery bank capable of running the furnace all night w/o the gennie.
Should be a neat project. I've always wanted to re-build a trailer.
2014 Ford F-150 XLT, HD Payload, Max Trailer
2010 K-Z Spree 318BHS