98coachman wrote: Redwood is a great way to go with the framing, it won't rot and is very light when it is dry. I think I would used red fir or larch on the roof framing because it is more structural and you won't add enough weight to notice. Great project!! Keep us posted
Good luck, Bill
Redwood is light and rot resistant but it isn't rot proof and it isn't very strong. It is also soft so it doesn't take nails or screws well. It also doesn't take glue as well as other species.
It worked perfectly on my old trailer and it holds screws and nails well. glues quite well also. 10 plus years and no failor yet.. it has outlived all the bacteria that would rot it out!! Good luck in the restoration. Bill
Sorry life got in the way of my fun for a few days.
Got the passenger side stripped so now everything is exposed, a little more rail damage and more disintegrating floor on the passenger side.
First I'll answer some questions and perhaps gain some more great ideas, thank you all who have responded so far.
*Getting it out of the garage :lol
I "think" if I pull the rims/ tires and rest the drums on some wheel dollies it will roll out OK~
I have a buddy in town who has a heated garage w/ a 10' door so when we are ready to put the EPDM roof on I'll tow it to town and do it there.
On the subject of EPDM, just received a 12X18' section of black on black 45mm, would have preferred the white on black but for free black is just fine.
*types of wood/
I agonized over this when doing my TC, but it DOES come down to weight and $$, the #1 and 2 fir sticks are dense and heavy, the standard 1x2 like the factory used 30 odd years ago looks fine.
I would like marine grade 3/4 for the floor.... but the particle board they used has "some" structure in "some" areas so I may just go w/ standard 1" and call it???
Lots of the wood in the thing seems to be ripped 2x4's, I may go that route in a few places but I think we'll will use mainly 1x2.
*Water proofing
I'm thinking of using some self sealing roofing products on the edges, and if I can swing the $$ perhaps having the whole thing shot w/ foam
*axle rating
Thank you very much I hadn't even looked at that YET, but Replacing most of the brake components and lubing the bearing is on the list.
My current goal is to have this back in action for opening day ski season, day after Thanks Giving
I sure love the links to other rebuild threads, not sure what time MON I'll get to start playing with "Diddums" again, till then some more damage pics.
Front right hand side, this corroded window is about where the door will be
The top rail on the right side is shot, both will have to be replaced
ALL the lights above the front window leaked badly, most of the wood here is shot. since this will be where the kitchen is being relocated too purchasing some 1/8" 4x8 tile "looking" MDF is what will replace the louan.
And the what I perceive to be the worst of it, the hot water heater obviously had leaked for years unchecked.
Pulled out a few chunks
With the chunks removed and the VERY THIN pink stuff insulation the aluminum bottom can be seen, ouch.
I'm drawing up some deas and getting a handle on outlets, 12v/120v, switches, lights, kitchen wants, dogs needs and how many windows to keep and how many to source.
Please keep up all the great questions and ideas/ advice.
Repo
05 Tundra 4x4
1976' SIX PAC, cut to size and function.
$800 1977' Road Ranger, not yet road worthy (AUG '11')
UNCTarHeels wrote: How long will the re-build take?
I finished completely rebuilding our 1998 Dutchmen 26BH last April. Took me 18 months, working every weekend, and a few hours after work each day. Take the time you think it will take you and double or even triple that. There is always the unexpected and plenty of "uh-ohs" along the way, weather issues, life events, and "I need a break before I go insane" moments! I thought I could do it all in 6 months, but then as I got into it I decided I wanted to do things right, make some interior layout changes, and make it better than new.
Sounds like you are going to change some things around in there.
A word of caution though as you do this. Consider the weight balance of the entire trailer. They are very carefully designed at the factory to have a certain amount of weight forward of the axles for proper tongue weight. You don't want too much or too little, as this can adversely affect your handling going down the road.
Also, many of the walls, partitions, furniture etc. are strategically located for strength of the overall unit. You would be amazed at how much these things flex going down the road.
I think your 1" plywood for the floor is about 3/8" too much. 5/8" tongue and groove plywood, same as home construction, is plenty strong enough. With one inch you will add too much weight.
I also would not increase the wall framing members in size - stick with the same size they used at the factory. Kiln dried spruce is plenty strong enough. When I rebuilt mine, I used 3" screws to fasten all plates to the studs. I also glued them and I also bridged them with 2 or 3 wide crown staples on each side. When I put the new paneling in, I glued it to the studs before stapling it on.
To properly change out the floor you will have to gut the inside. And you will have to separate the walls from the floor to run your new floor sheeting right out to the edge.
Glue everything!
My website shows a lot of this in picture form. And I have hundreds more pictures of things that I did not post.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ
Duramax / Allison Fire Red
This one may be short as I'm waiting on a buddy to come over and help me w/ the floor.
here is a teaser as to how "Diddums" looks now, two weeks later.
Passenger side, all new panels and door moved up front.
Gutted and a few new roof panels in, I left the rear bathroom wall as the rear end is almost touching the garage and I can not access it YET.
As to changing the floor plan. YES
I'm adding bunks and moving things around a bit.
I am thinking about weight distribution but by no means am I an Engineer, PS not all engineers are civil
I think by getting the fresh water off the front and the bathroom and tanks out of the rear, centering both over the axles MY silly concepts of weight distribution will be less impacting, IF I'm totally off on something......????
As to cabinets and walls supporting this flimsy thing, DEFINITELY, I would like to have a "walk on" roof when this is all done, but see the sentence above this one, I'm no engineer so more than likely it will weigh more than it needs and won't be as strong as if I'd used an auto CAD or something similar.
On the floor, THANK YOU, I bought 5/8ths.
Here is the new door going in up front, all new wall.
These are the brackets I'll weld off of to drop the door 8 inches for the door/ step and added depth (length of skis is taller than the 6' 4" ceiling) for ski storage in a compartment between the new door and the wheel wells.
Not a lot of roof damage, only replacing about a 5th of the roof Truss's.
Most do to rotted ends, this one by the vent however left no structure to the 2x4 and married 1x2.
Seeing that the roof was concave and I'm hoping for something flat or even convex.... Going w/ a flat 2x4 seemed like little support, I tried making something stiffer and may add a 2x2 for width at the vent
Speaking of stiffer and why I'm moving the door down.
Found this lovely crack, in the middle of the door frame. not a lot of structure holding things together.
I think it failed because the floor did, however I added 2 more 2x2s under the stained but solid original 2x2, and will add the top rail once the roof comes together, questions to follow.
Around the wheel wells is a thin tin,
If I were to "wrap" the insides of the tin w/ 2x12, first facing the long side then the ends and setting the long piece on top....
would a failing tire still shred the wheel well and the 2"x12"x4'
thanks
Repo
* This post was
edited 10/17/11 08:28am by hilandfrog *
IF it were YOU:
*would you prefer the front to be a kitchen or a hang out area.
*would sleeping East to West be more or less shaky than North to south sleeping?
I really like this bunk/ bathroom layout
*Would adding tyvex and or Ice guard be a good idea prior to reinstalling aluminum?
*I could use some pics of where EDPM mates w/ alum and the related metal work, I need to see how much curve to put on the front and back as well as how the corners are gathered up and what was done to wrap around the sides over the alum siding.
*Storage areas...
drawers, slides, nothing.
what about a dedicated BBQ w/ propane attachment.
or even an outside work area, we will have an outside shower, perhaps sink???
*New windows vs old.
The trailer came w/ slat crank out windows that I can not imagine will have any great R-value during the winter, not wanting to go big $$ for double pane, will a solid window be that much greater, seems there are a few out there that can be delivered for about $60
Skiing should be so much more comfortable this year than last
Offline
