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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers

 > Total rebuild, lots of pictures and advice needed

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hilandfrog

Montana

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Posted: 10/06/11 08:55am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

WOW.... Thanks for all the replies.

I love any pics and links of your projects and ideas for remodeling.


I'll do my best to answer questions though I will not link in many quotes.

*Gen in the TT not the TV.... Totally, when I have the spare funds for a $800 Honda I'll have the space for it. Right now I have a 6500/8500kw gen and IF I build a box it should be quiet enough for a parking lot.

*Small fresh water tank... It currently has a 45 gal that is up front where the kitchen WILL be, I didn't like the idea of 400+lbs being directly way up front. I have an extra 25 gal from my TC project and it will fit opposite the futon couch next to the wheel well. I may add an extra 25 to the other side in the future if needed.

*Bunks positioning.... I think we have settled w/ 2 in the rear (North-South) sharing a wall w/ bathroom, then on the opposite side in the middle, a fold out couch with a shelf/ folding out to bed above that. The original bed that was up front is a couch that slides into a full size bed, think futon. I will be thinking out of the box so the captain chair idea is right there.

* With the kitchen being at the front I think I can add a pop-out for the batteries on the tongue, great idea thank you.
We have planned on 2 t-105's with hopes for 2 more and solar in the future.

*Heat and vents... I love the idea of an OLY stove, the wave 6 looks to be the best for our uses.
Ducting may be easy as the new heater has a pull out box w/ punch outs for 4" ducting, ya mixing the air seems smart.
We are looking at 2 Maxx air II vent covers, a fantastic fan for bath and possibly an escape hatch for roof access, sure would be fun to have a deck up there, hence the talk of steel in my first post???


OK the most asked questions

COST, well a newer used TT that isn't how we'd like it set up is ~$6K.
Labor excluded I'll be under $3 w/ purchase price and things will be just where I want them.
No hassles w/ dealer ships or warranties.

I'm a house pet, my wife works I play.

Besides the mouse turds, mega amounts of dust, decomposed wood and old itchy fiberglass its kinda FUN, this thing has a huge excess of staples holding stuff together.
As to this being a mega project:lol
while it may look daunting it is VERY EASY stuff no magic or skilled labor necessary.

The shower... I have been agonizing over it, my wife has her mind made up, meaning I should put it in and not tell her so when she changes her mind it is there
Actually we are very dirty people and going 2-3 days w/o shower isn't uncommon. I can see it's usefulness in Moab, but we usually take less than 5 day trips and then do something when we are THERE, kinda a mobile motel.... motels have showers right?


Where the floor is rotted away, marine grade for $25 more per sheet or just go w/reg ply like it was built with 34 years ago.

Tyvex under the alum, what about ice guard around the edges and under the clearance lights.

I'm going from alum roof to EDPM and I'm wondering on finishing the edges, I'm a LONG way away from needing help there but...

...from 1/4" ply to edge how is that rough surface blended, is it a special channel I'll need or is J channel what is used on others.
What does one do about the front and rear seams where it goes from EPDM to alum

I'm a simple kind of guy so pics are it.


Thanks again.


05 Tundra 4x4
1976' SIX PAC, cut to size and function.
$800 1977' Road Ranger, not yet road worthy (AUG '11')


Super_Dave

Sacramento, CA

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Posted: 10/06/11 09:34am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Any idea what your axles are rated at? My guess is that this trailer might be heavier when you are done.


Truck: 2006 Dodge 3500 Dually
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BobsYourUncle

Surrey, BC Canada

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Posted: 10/08/11 01:08am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Super_Dave wrote:

Any idea what your axles are rated at? My guess is that this trailer might be heavier when you are done.


Yeah, do be careful when you rebuild stuff.

It is so easy to make things from heavier wood. Factory used spruce, I'll use fir!! Oh, and I will use treated too!

That is all great and wonderful, but by the time you replace a whole bunch of floor, walls and so on, you now have a trailer that weighs 1.5 times what it originally did. Pretty soon you are towing a Sherman tank down the highway!

Very important to consider weight in the materials you use!


2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ
Duramax / Allison
Fire Red

1997 Triple E Topaz 27' Bunkhouse TT

81 Citation 25' "Tail dragger" "Under construction"

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Check Out My Rebuild Project

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W4RLR

Sewanee, Tennessee

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Posted: 10/08/11 03:54am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One source of good information is Mark Polk's RV Garage videos on YouTube. Mark just completed a total rebuild of a 1967 Yellowstone travel trailer, sixteen episodes are available online.

Mark's RV Garage


Richard L. Ray
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Lady Fitzgerald

Tempe, AZ, USA, Earth

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Posted: 10/08/11 06:27am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rray32539 wrote:

One source of good information is Mark Polk's RV Garage videos on YouTube. Mark just completed a total rebuild of a 1967 Yellowstone travel trailer, sixteen episodes are available online.

Mark's RV Garage


I saw all of those videos and, frankly, he didn't impress me. I'll grant he has forgotten more about RVs than I'll ever know but even i could see some of the things he did during that project were just wrong or poorly planned. A short list of things he did that horrified me includes: installing the water heater (or furnace, I forget which) underneath an openable window (a great way to get possibly fatal fumes into the trailer; the window should have been just a single, unopenable piece of glass); soldering wire joints with too small of a soldering iron and just globbing on the solder; when replacing the axle (a last minute project because he didn't realize it was too light duty until he tried to install hydraulic brakes; as a so called RV expert, he should have realized that from the word go), he just lightly wire brushed the springs and spray painted the side that showed (he should have removed the springs to replace the bushings--adding wet bolts would have been a good idea--and clean up any corrosion between the leaves); when installing the hydraulic brake lines, he didn't properly support them, especially where the steel lines transitioned to the flex line at each wheel; putting the rubber roof on before all the wiring and the siding had been installed.

* This post was edited 10/08/11 02:37pm by Lady Fitzgerald *


Jeannie

Snowman9000

IL

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Posted: 10/08/11 08:28am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would not upgrade the choice of building materials very much. Going forward, maintaining your waterproofing is the main thing. The original stuff would not be rotted today if that had been done.


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98coachman

North Idaho

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Posted: 10/08/11 10:01am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Redwood is a great way to go with the framing, it won't rot and is very light when it is dry. I think I would used red fir or larch on the roof framing because it is more structural and you won't add enough weight to notice. Great project!! Keep us posted
Good luck, Bill

Lady Fitzgerald

Tempe, AZ, USA, Earth

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Posted: 10/08/11 02:42pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

98coachman wrote:

Redwood is a great way to go with the framing, it won't rot and is very light when it is dry. I think I would used red fir or larch on the roof framing because it is more structural and you won't add enough weight to notice. Great project!! Keep us posted
Good luck, Bill


Redwood is light and rot resistant but it isn't rot proof and it isn't very strong. It is also soft so it doesn't take nails or screws well. It also doesn't take glue as well as other species.

opnspaces

San Diego Ca

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Posted: 10/08/11 08:36am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good luck on the project and keep us updated with lots of pictures. I love to follow the rebuilds here. Just make sure it will fit through the garage door when completed though. You don't want to end up like Mike Mulligan and his steam shovel.


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dmcummins

Missouri

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Posted: 10/08/11 09:25am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I paid $2500 for my 1964 trailer. I probably have around $6500 and time into it now. But I have new plumbing, water heat, a/c, mattresses, flooring, toilet, ect. The old trailer is different, and we like it. We could have bought one that did not need anything, but we were able to make ours more like we wanted.

Keep us updated on your project.

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