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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers

 > Total rebuild, lots of pictures and advice needed

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westend

all over

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Joined: 11/17/2011

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Posted: 02/10/12 06:46am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"I wish the work was going faster"---Don't I know that's true! Hang in there, frog, the payback is coming pretty soon.

For making tank straps and other bends in metal, I use galvanized metal strap (sold at all the big-box stores) and a 12" Malco folding tool: Malco folsing tool. It will make bending strap and light metals easy.


'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

jrichard

Sacramento

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Posted: 02/10/12 08:13am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wow....thanks for sharing this!!!

hilandfrog

Montana

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Posted: 02/10/12 08:41am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all the responses and suggestions!

I really am using the ones I like and all are on the LIST for just in case I need ideas later.

I know I'll love using Diddums when he's done, but for now it would be nice for my wife to have access to our garage again....

We have a very small microwave that is in our truck camper, perhaps it will make the cut. Storing it out of the way but ready for use is a GREAT IDEA.


Does anyone have a window in their bathroom vs a vent?



Also.....
this is my planned heater location, low and a few feet away from kitchen window, not next to the front bed or rear bunks for quite at night.

HOWEVER, it is pointed right at the sitting area that "I THINK" we'll be hanging out at most of the time when actually IN the TT, movies, dinner, cards etc.....

I'm giving up a lower storage space but have the clearance and space for it, so what are your thoughts?????







westend wrote:

"I wish the work was going faster"---Don't I know that's true! Hang in there, frog, the payback is coming pretty soon.

For making tank straps and other bends in metal, I use galvanized metal strap (sold at all the big-box stores) and a 12" Malco folding tool: Malco folsing tool. It will make bending strap and light metals easy.



Thanks for the link on strap bending, metal straps are what the original tank had on it so I guess it works:lol

I've been following your build and figure we are either doing things correctly or wasting a lot of time and $$

Keep the pics coming I have already taken a few ideas from them thanks.


Repo


05 Tundra 4x4
1976' SIX PAC, cut to size and function.
$800 1977' Road Ranger, not yet road worthy (AUG '11')


Gdetrailer

PA

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Posted: 02/10/12 06:52pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

hilandfrog writes "Bonus was a few chewed up wires"

That picture of the wires you showed in your first post is not "chewed" by any creature.
Those in fact are a product of overloading or shorting.

Look carefully you will notice the insulation was bubbled and was drooping under the wire.

The culprit is those steel pieces going through the studs and the fact that the wiring in RVs tends to be as short as possible. The result is the insulation getting scuffed and worn until it shorts.

That is similar to what I found in my rebuild (I wish I had my docs online right now but thats another story) only mine was a massive clump of 20 or so 12V wires and a few 120V wires mixed in for good measure. All melted into one big mess, it was a wonder that the previous owner didn't have the trailer go up in flames!

I would suggest not reusing those steel pieces, they were there to prevent the builder from stapling or nailing the wires. Instead use steel plates on each side of the studs, you can get them at most electrical supply stores or home centers.

Good luck with your project, to me it was time well spent making it the way I want it.

rovobay

Damascus, Oregon (Portland Suburb)

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Posted: 02/13/12 03:22pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

you gotta be working on this full time! keep the updates coming! looks like a fun project


1999 Cameo by Carriage 26FLS bought in February 2012 (our first trailer)

TV is a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD 4X4 Crew Cab Short Bed with a 6.6l Duramax and Allison Transmission

westend

all over

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Posted: 02/15/12 01:13am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

Also.....
this is my planned heater location, low and a few feet away from kitchen window, not next to the front bed or rear bunks for quite at night.

HOWEVER, it is pointed right at the sitting area that "I THINK" we'll be hanging out at most of the time when actually IN the TT, movies, dinner, cards etc.....

I'm giving up a lower storage space but have the clearance and space for it, so what are your thoughts?????

Sounds like a perfect location, aimed at the central area of activity and I bet you'll find another place to recover the storage space lost. I've read more than a couple of posts where TT owners comment that the heater doesn't do a good job of moving heated air to forward dinette spaces. Most of these problem TT's have furnaces that are central->aft located and the heated air is pushed through 4" ducts that exit somewhere close to the dinette area.

hilandfrog

Montana

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Posted: 02/15/12 08:13am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the confirmation Westend

I'm thinking a few computer fans in the walls to move some air into the bunks, they seem to be a really dead air area.

EVERYONE is answering a few questions, THANK YOU very much for taking the time.

Here is an electrical question that I even started a thread on, but never took any action in calling FF. Seems like cheating....

So here's the deal....

I bought a Fantastic fan Temp control panel




It has three wires, I kinda guess that red = + IN and black = - and thus blue would connect to the + on a DPDT switch for power to fan.. that didn't work



The Fantastic Fan I purchased used has 2 wires one black one white, FWD / Revers depending on their polarity orrentation.


It even talks about a few colors but nothing to do w/ blue



Google has not been friendly, I'm hoping someone has played with one of these before?



Repo

U.P. BLDR

Upper Peninsula of Michigan

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Posted: 02/24/12 12:54pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

No instructions with it? Might be for rain sensor, not sure. I'd call or email the company if there's no info online.


1981 Sunline 17 1/2SB - under construction
2003 Toyota Tundra SR5 TRD 4x4 4.7lt

hilandfrog

Montana

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Posted: 03/01/12 10:11pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Feeling like I'm not keeping up with the others rebuilding their rigs, I'll post some pictures.


Here is the box out of the passenger side bunk and closet.










This is the bunk pulling out to 32"




Found a 8" deep under mount double sink, cut off one side and installed it.






As the cover sits over the sink it will give more counter space.




And then the front end going on.








Then just cause I couldn't leave well enough alone.
I didn't like the window behind the stove....




So we moved it forward of the sink, into the "dining room"




Hoping to get plumbing and electrical this weekend.


Repo

Winnipeg

Los Angeles

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Posted: 03/01/12 11:56pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Interesting project, I have a few comments & suggestions.

I put in a Fantastic fan, similar to yours. I am not sure what plug you are showing, but the fan has forward/reverse, so maybe that explains 3 wires (one is ground, two are for directions)? It also has a rain sensor. The installation was pretty simple, I hope you have the manual, if not call them or check on line for one.

I didn't see you posting anything about the frame, suspension, hitch, jack, etc. I hate to see you do all this work and then have the thing fall apart when you hit a big bump going 60. The trailer was likely overloaded from the factory, the suspension has deteriorated, and you may be adding weight. It may be worthwhile upgrading things underneath. You may also consider adding shocks to the suspension, it’s pretty easy to do and will improve towing.

I didn’t see a hot water tank. Did that get cut from the plan?
You haven’t talked about wiring. I assume you are replacing every wire in the coach, especially the ones that were overloaded. What about the inverter/distribution panel, it likely needs to be replaced. It may not have even had an inverter, at least nothing like the modern ones.

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