Sabluka, I have never had a dually so I can't give you an informed opinion on them. I have an 08 25oo hd Silverado. My oem tires were rated for 3042# for a total of 6084#. I was sitting at 6080# when I weighed the truck and camper. I bought 4 Nitto Terra Grapplers (285/75-16) along with 4 Gear Alloy rims. The tires and rims are each rated for 3750#, giving me 7500# for my rear axle.
I looked up the weight capacity of my rear axle. It is 6900#, so I have more than enough tire now.
Today I installed Stable Loads ( the new adjustable ones). I also have Timbren SES that I installed. I do not care for air bags, so am hoping the stable loads will take care of the sag. No sway to speak of on my rig. I still have the oem shocks and so far see no problem with them.
I added 19.5 tires and rims to my SRW Truck so that I would have no tire problems or concerns. I also added Torklift Stable Loads to deal with the sway and make the truck feel more stable.
Here's the rest of my post that I cut off in the last one;...
2. Kerry - I think my friends comments about the using the dual rear tires took into account the less traction you'd get in the snow. We have long snowy winters here.
More tires = more surface area = less traction. I think that's why he said that. No biggie. Seems like KD4s comments is a vote for them.
3. dirdrake - I didn't stink to weigh it before I put the camper on. Drat!
4. mkirsch and wheelloader - the tires are LT235/85R16E. They are 10-ply. Their load ratings at 80-psi are;
A. Single = 3,042-lbs/each
B. Dual = 2.780-lbs/each
So,...it looks like using single tires I'll be overloading the tires.
I figure I'd add abt 1200-lbs to total weight with water and black/gray water and tools and gear and food and pups.
So the rear tires will take .65 x 1200-lbs = 780-lbs say 800-lbs.
Hence, total load on each tire is (6,540 + 800) / 2 = 3,670-lbs/each.
Therefore,...each tire is overloaded by 3,670 - 3042 = 628-lbs.
Conclusions:
1. Use dual tires on the rear, ...or
2. Buy two tires that are rated for a higher loading.
Which option is best?
Also, the rear axle is overloaded
Rear axle rated at 6,084-lbs. Rear axle load is 6540 + 800 = 7,340-lbs. Conclusion.....Rear axle weight is 1,256-lbs over design load. Let's hope there is a factor of safety built in.
Now I hafta fig out best way to stabilize the truck.
A. Add sway bars forward and aft?
B. Add springs or air bags. ( Neighbor has airbags on 87 f250 with heavy camper. He says the airbags make hitting a bump very sharp and
hard on the truck and camper). Is he correct? He said adding extra springs wld be the best idea. Not sure about that!~!
3. Add an extra leaf or two the flat leaf springs n each side.
I'll add new Bilstein shocks in addition to the above.
Hope this post answers all your questions sos I can get your feedback.
BTW, I may drive from AK to Ga soon if I can get this all done in time.
Rick
* This post was
edited 10/20/11 07:35pm by Sabluka *
I ended up doing a dually conversion my truck, Sub, there's a definite night an day difference between the original axle and this one.
Heck yer 88 1 ton had the same axle rating as my truck started out with and it was a 3/4 ton.
I have a 10,000lb axle in the rear now and 10,000lbs of tire capacity in the Dunlop Rover A/Ts I have on the rear. Having 4 tires at 80PSI is alot different than 2 tires at 80PSI, alot less sidewall squat.
Follow me as I full-time the Redneck Way at The Journey of the Redneck Express CBChannel 17Redneck Express '1992Dodge W-250 "Dually" Power Wagon - Club Cab Long Bed 4x4 V8 5.9L gashog w/4.10 Geared axles '1974KIT Kamper 1106 - 11' Slide-in
Bigfootchevy wrote: I added 19.5 tires and rims to my SRW Truck so that I would have no tire problems or concerns. I also added Torklift Stable Loads to deal with the sway and make the truck feel more stable.
Paul
Paul,
I just talked to a tire store. They said the largest I can use are 285/75R16E rated at 3,748-lbs per tire. Thats still too small tho.
JoeChiOhki wrote: I ended up doing a dually conversion my truck, Sub, there's a definite night an day difference between the original axle and this one.
Heck yer 88 1 ton had the same axle rating as my truck started out with and it was a 3/4 ton.
I have a 10,000lb axle in the rear now and 10,000lbs of tire capacity in the Dunlop Rover A/Ts I have on the rear. Having 4 tires at 80PSI is alot different than 2 tires at 80PSI, alot less sidewall squat.
Joe - Kneat looking rig. I like the hitch carrier on the front. Good idee. I welded up a heavy duty one for the rear and used it for years. Never thght abt the front tho. I got the materials to make an aluminium one but haven't done it yet. Was goona try and braze it.
Have you tried an extended receiver to tow a trailer?
The people I've talked to here said as old as the truck was, I'd prob haveta get the axle from a junk yard. Plus,...the Chevy/GMC dealership said they don't do that type work.
What a pain. Heck I may end up selling some vehicles and getting a newer truck.
Just to add something along the lines of what Wheelholder said...
I recently discovered something interesting on my rig. The truck's placard has the rear axle weight rating at 6000lbs. But a little research into the actual manufacturer of the axle rates it at a little over 10,000lbs.
I'm certainly not advocating loading up your truck to the maximum weights that the axles will tolerate from a design standpoint. But I am pointing out that there's almost certainly some additional margin based on what the truck probably states on its stickers.
Sabluka wrote: ...total load on each tire is (6,540 + 800) / 2 = 3,670-lbs/each.
Therefore,...each tire is overloaded by 3,670 - 3042 = 628-lbs.
Sabluka wrote: I just talked to a tire store. They said the largest I can use are 285/75R16E rated at 3,748-lbs per tire. Thats still too small tho.
Rick
Just curious-Ya lost me Rick...doesnt address the axle but doesnt this satistfy tire needs ,as far as weight numbers?. I also agree your numbers are a bit well on the safe side. Im wondering though if your '88 is going to like that much diameter increase.
Swapping to DRW axle would address both tire and axle issues (and handling) but having it done/swap, unless you Really like your truck, not sure would be cost effective.
AnEv92 - I think your right. That tire does meet the calc loads. Plus I found what the standard weight includes, and I can deduct, 384-lbs of water and 60-lbs gas tanks. That's included in the 3383-lbs load of the camper.
My GMC crew cab is real heavy duty and has lots of room in the wheel well for a larger tire.
With camper on it, the springs are about flat. I was told adding a leaf or two would help a lot for stability. Along with new shocks.
idaho_camper wrote: Just to add something along the lines of what Wheelholder said...
I recently discovered something interesting on my rig. The truck's placard has the rear axle weight rating at 6000lbs. But a little research into the actual manufacturer of the axle rates it at a little over 10,000lbs.
I'm certainly not advocating loading up your truck to the maximum weights that the axles will tolerate from a design standpoint. But I am pointing out that there's almost certainly some additional margin based on what the truck probably states on its stickers.
Well that is interesting. Maybe it's the weakest link theory and they rate it accordingly. Be nice to see just how they come up with that rating.
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