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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers

 > First Electrical Problem - Where to start looking?

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TECMike

Temple, Texas

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Posted: 10/24/11 04:20am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We recently had our first and only problem electrical problem with our little Sunnybrook since we bought it.

A few days ago while camping, my wife was cooking and turned on the exhaust fan and it did not come on as well as the vent hood light. Turned on the bath bath fan and it did not come on. The monitor panel did not come on.

And she turned on the A/C, along with the electric water heat, and neither worked. Fortunately it was a cool autumn night and we made it with out A/C, which is a miracle here in Texas.

All of the lights in our trailer, other than the vent hood light, work fine, as does the TV. Slide works fine.

None of the breakers were thrown and the fuses look fine. Battery is putting fully charges and put out required voltage. The main GFI wall outlet was/is not tripped and works fine.

Is there a reset button on trailers somewhere we are missing?

Since the A/C and hot water heater are 110V, what would be the relationship to 12V problems?

Sure would appreciate any help and advice as to where and what to start checking from folks who know electrical problems on RVs.

Thanks so much in advance for all the advice.

Mike

eHoefler

ozark mountains

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Posted: 10/24/11 05:58am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is the hood in a microwave or is it just a hood with a fan and light? Micro 110 volts, just a hood 12 volt. Does the A/C have a wall thermostat? If so, it is a 12 volt issue. Hot water heater have the element or just gas? Just gas, 12 volt problem. Is your rig 30 amp or 50 amp?? If 50 amp, you could have one bad leg at the pedestal.


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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 10/24/11 06:43am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Some new water heaters have 12 volt DC control for 120 volt element.
AC unit can have 12 volt control from rigs 12 volt system.
I beleive you have a blown fuse in your system. DC power disiitribution is normally behind metal plate next to the 120 AC breakers.


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beemerphile1

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Posted: 10/24/11 06:49am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds like a burnt fuse to me. You should test the fuses with a meter, you cannot go by how it "looks".


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Starcraft21SSO

Atlanta, Ga.

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Posted: 10/24/11 06:51am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

beemerphile1 wrote:

Sounds like a burnt fuse to me. You should test the fuses with a meter, you cannot go by how it "looks".


+1. Been bit by that one in various applications.


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TECMike

Temple, Texas

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Posted: 10/24/11 06:51am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The vent hood and light are separate below the microwave. There is a wall thermostat. The hot water heater is both gas and electric.

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 10/24/11 08:25am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Make and model of water heater would be beneficial in determining whether it is 12 volt DC controlled.

eddie3260

Florence, al

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Posted: 10/24/11 07:07am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds like the breaker on the power pole tripped. Did you check it?

opnspaces

San Diego Ca

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Posted: 10/24/11 09:42am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It sounds like a fuse. Do you have a multimeter that you can use to check the fuses? Are you able to plug in at home and see if the problem persists?

If you don't have a meter you could go to Walmart or an automotive supply store and buy a pack of assorted replacement fuses. Then swap them out one at a time on the trailer and see if things suddenly start working.


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TECMike

Temple, Texas

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Posted: 10/24/11 09:56am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A good friend and a camping buddy found it. It was a fuse after all. He found it with his multimeter and probably caused by a defective vent fan I installed in the bath.

I will go out today and buy an asssortment of fuses and eventually a multimeter.

Sure is nice to have a good friend to help out and I hope I can help him out one day. Thanks all for the suggestions and help. I appreciate it.

Mike

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