my996duc1
SoCal
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Just bought an Attitude FL28AKLG toyhauler and I want to put my Suzuki Samurai inside.
I have always just flat towed it when going somewhere to off-road so I don't know the proper way to tie/strap it in.
How are you guys strapping in larger vehicles...
- Are you strapping the axle OR the bumper tow points to the toyhauler anchor points ?
- How many straps are you using ?
- What kind of straps are you using (cambuckle, racket)?
I see a package of straps rated at "xxxx"lbs. Does that mean each strap is rated at the "xxxx"lbs or is it the combo of all straps together can hold "xxxx"lbs ??
Thanks !
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* This post was
edited 10/25/11 10:48am by my996duc1 *
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TAS
Baton Rouge, La
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straps
I use two front and two rear around the axles. The body bounces w/ the trailer and can shock load the straps if attached to the bumpers etc...
Todd
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BigJon05
Central Valley CA
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You want it tied down well enough so when you slam on your brakes, it doesnt jerk forward and fly through the front of the trailer. Most of my tiedowns are on the rear of whatever I am tying down, usually 2 of them on the bumper going to each side floor track. (I have e-track which i like alot better than d rings). I do tie to the front for the heavier atvs and go to the side tracks as well. I use the 2 inch wide ratchet straps from HF.
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kemo 1
ontario canada
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Are you using D rings or E track. I am using both systems in my trailer, I want 2 independent systems in case 1 fails, last year I had a D ring open up, my Harley stayed upright but was leaning, I would cross the straps in a "X" so that the load can not move side to side.
Ken
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GENECOP
NEW YORK
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I carry a Smart Car in a Toy Hauler, first I have a chock system, the front chocks put the front of the car about 1" from the garage wall, the chocks lock in and the car can't go forward, then I place a rear chock system in the back which rests against the rear ramp door. This locks the car in Front to Back, then I use ratchet straps into zbar two, directly to wheels....G
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Dennis M M
Geneva, IL; Tucson, AZ
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When I carried race cars in box trailers I just put straps around the front suspension to front tie downs and straps around the rear axle to the rear tie downs.
Now that I carry a smart on my deck I use wheel bonnets, but they require tie downs ahead of and behind the wheels.
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Dirtclods
Newport Beach
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Wheel bonnets http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/vi........i=15drvplkb&sigb=11nbopnqc&fr=slv1-yff35
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Doughboy12
Minnesota
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my996duc1 wrote:I see a package of straps rated at "xxxx"lbs. Does that mean each strap is rated at the "xxxx"lbs or is it the combo of all straps together can hold "xxxx"lbs ??
Only you can tell, read the fine print as they say.
You WILL need to upgrade your tie-down points for a car/ORV.
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Y-Guy
Tri-Cities, WA
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Even for my ATVs I've started using the HD ratchet straps. They come in sizes from 1" to 4" so you can get ones that are rated for your needs. They will be rated with something like "Working Load Limit = 3,333 lbs" My suggestion is, don't go cheap. I chewed through several cheap 1" straps, I've had my 2" straps for 4 years now and feel much safer using them.
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mapguy
Puget Sound
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Agree with Y-guy -don't skimp on tie down apparatus -it will cost in the long run.
Tie down hardware and straps have two ratings:
1. Ultimate strength. This is the ultimate rating per device.
2. Working Load Limit (WLL)-this is the actual every day number to use. Quality straps will be WLL rated at 1/3 or less of the ultimate strength.
Your combination of tie down points, hardware and straps are only as strong as the weakest rated piece. If using 4 wheel bonnets each wheel system must handle 1/4 of the Sammy's weight for WLL of each piece in that assembly.
Strongly suggest that any tie down points be frame attached and not floor attached for long term reliability.
I like wheel bonnet strap systems the best if tie down points are in the correct location. These allow the suspension to move without "reaction" to normal road way bumps and jolts but keeps the vehicle in one place.
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