niftypkg
Arizona
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Joined: 07/28/2010
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This is a 1993 Sunlight Pop-up TC. I will need to loosen vinyl at the end of the roof to get at the lift pivot. Probably I will need to replace the rotted board that retains the pivot. Looks like the pivot is loose. OK to crank roof but needs this repair. This pivot/bearing is where the bars that hold up the roof fit in. Any pics or procedure available?
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dbrojr
upstate ny
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Joined: 11/01/2010
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i had a sun-lite with the same problem...here are some pics...
2002 f-150/jayco pop
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dbrojr
upstate ny
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the roof is aluminium with a glued foam/paper interior,and plywood sides...i removed my roof,made it easier.
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niftypkg
Arizona
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Perfect. Removing roof is the best way but I don't have the luxury. Probably I'll have to do it under the AZ sun in steps. I'l know more when I can see the damage. Looks like you inserted a new roof panel also. Do you think it could be done by propping up the roof at that end? Just installed a Fantastic fan to replace leaking vent. Had to replace rotted wood there too. Thanks.
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dbrojr
upstate ny
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you can,but it needs to be about 3/4 way up to remove the canvas,and be carefull its heavier than it looks and hurts like hell when it lands on you,why i finally removed mine...mine was very water logged and the foam had become unglued to much to reuse...the heco lift system needs to be removed,again be carefull,it is under spring tension a will kick back against the walls and go thru them.i put some pieces of 1/2 plywood betwwen the support legs and the walls.
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niftypkg
Arizona
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Started the rear roof repair on my Sunlite TC. ( To pop up the camper in the garage I had to remove the electric garage door openers) First step removing the canvas to get at the rear pivots. The left pivot bracket looks OK Found a loose nut. The right side bracket has already punctured the roof. Now how do I get the bracket off. I know it splines into the torsion bar hex but how do I move the bracket to back it out? The main tube which contains the torsion bar is rubbing on the roof. I came across a post that described an intermediate support ( like a pipe support) to support the tube in the middle to prevent that. Any info on that?
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niftypkg
Arizona
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I glued the plywood pieces together with Gorilla Glue. I bought two tubes of 60 minute Ace Apoxy for the wood to aluminum job. presently I am fitting the parts together to see if it all fits. A dry run. One problem I am having is that the side wall roof closure seals do not mate with the rear seals. I saw that when I started. It is off on both sides about 1/2+ inch. If I move the rear Al. channel down I would have to add a section 6'x 1" of skin so it wouid fit into the Al channel. Then rework the end caps. What a pain!!!
* This post was
edited 04/10/12 08:09am by niftypkg *
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niftypkg
Arizona
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Noticed that the the hex socket that is welded to the brackets are not verticle to the bracket. Although the bracket is slightly bent the socket looks like it was welded that way to the bracket. If the bracket then is mounted to the new plywood backing the socket appears to be pointed downward. Do you guys find this to be true or will I have to bend the bracket? Comments? 
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niftypkg
Arizona
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Progress from Niftypkg: I have installed two 3/16" steel plates to the 1" plywood backing. The plywood was glued together with Gorilla Glue and to the skin/plywood with epoxy glue bought for $5 at Ace. That worked well. The steel plates were drilled using the torque brackets as a pattern. When the plates were installed and the brackets attached temporarily I drilled through the roof when everything was lined up. New plywood shims were added to the sides. At this point I had my willing neighbor weld a 3/4 bolt to the bracket to attach a breaker bar. Peg leg says he used a C clamp. Gave it a try to day and it seems that around 75-80# of torque is needed to line up the holes. That IS a lot. When I started the torque was '0' since the bracket had already broke free. IT WAS INSTALLED CROOKED TO BEGIN WITH AT ABOUT 35# TORQUE before it broke free. I'm worried that 90# is to much! I used a 2' torque wrench to twist the bracket into place. I tried to reposition the bracket to relieve the pressure. From the pics you will see the socket was not positioned correctly either and pointed down when fitted. I had to bend the bracket to straighten it. Before I stared I noticed that the Al channel was bowed outward. I believe that was do to the pressure on the plywood. Opinions?
Ready now to install the brackets. Click for pics.
http://s1076.photobucket.com/albums/w460/niftypkg/
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