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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > Fuel Pump Replacement Cost, P30 1994 Itasca

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summerwinds48

Florida

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Posted: 10/31/11 07:09pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

94 Itasca Suncruiser, Chev. P30 with 454 engine won't start. What's the current cost for dropping 78 Gal tank, replace fuel pump, fuel level sender? Relay checks out ok, no fuel going to engine. No noise from fuel pump.

Golden_HVAC

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Posted: 10/31/11 07:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It really depends on your location. Back east it is much less expensive than in California. Get into a one horse town, where they might have to send the Mayor and bottle washer at the local diner, and you might have to pay $100 to get it delivered from a larger city.

In California, the labor rates at the larger truck stops is close to $100 per hour. I hope you don't have to pay that much!

I am looking at doing my fuel pump myself, considered to be about a 4-6 hour job in the driveway, and about $600 in parts for my 97 Ford motorhome. Yes you will have to drain out what you can from the fuel tank. Once you start to syphon the fuel, don't stop, it can be difficult to get it working again!

Have about 3 each 5 gallon gas cans sitting around, and a few good friends willing to buy the fuel to put into their cars quickly as you drain out the fuel from the RV tank. Save about 10 gallons to put back into the RV - but only if the gas is less than 1 year old, otherwise put new gas into the RV.

A mixture of old and new fuel will not hurt a car, but you don't want all old fuel mixed with more old fuel in theRV.

Fred.

Carvin Marvin

Livingston, Texas, USA

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Posted: 11/01/11 06:05am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is it feasable to cut a hole in the floor above the tank? Had mine changed 5 yrs ago. Pump and labor, $1100 under extended warrrenty.

sum1

So-Cal

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Posted: 11/01/11 01:50am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After you've tested for power as More to See suggests, try crawling under there with a heavy rubber mallet. Have an assistant turn the key on and immediately give the lowpoint of the tank a good wallop or two. This isn't a permanent fix, but it may get the pump running to get you home. It worked for me once.

More To See

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Posted: 10/31/11 09:19pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you verified power on the wire back AT the fuel tank. Dig it out of the harness and verify with a test light. I'd verify that power is getting that far at least.

When you turn the key on the relay supplies power back to the pump for two seconds (maybe longer for some model years). So if you are listening for the pump to run you have to lay down under the tank and have somebody else turn the key on since it only runs for a couple seconds.

When you crank the engine to start the relay holds in to supply power to the pump, too. You should be able to hear it run over the cranking noise.

When oil pressure comes up a set of contacts in the oil pressure sending unit then supplies power back to the pump. Thus it is possible that both the oil pressure sending unit and the relay could be providing power at the same time momentarily until you release the key. (Not that this has anything to do with troubleshooting your problem.)

There is a multi pin general purpose connector between the start relay and the oil pressure switch feeding power back to the pump.

While you are up under there if the tank has to come down, I'd upgrade any rubber fuel lines, put split loom conduit on all the wires, etc. In my case, mice had chewed up the wires and I had to replace them.

Pump is not all that expensive. Maybe $130. I'd sure buy a good one though. It's that labor that kills you. I'd guess a shop knowing what they are doing should not take more than a few hours to do the job. So think in terms of roughly $500 or so.


95 Winnebago Vectra 34 (P30/454)

egshswinger

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Posted: 11/01/11 06:52am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was in New Mexico and had to have mine replaced it was 1600 hundred, it runs great now, but did see how they did it. It had a full tank of fuel 75 gal's, they supported the tank took the straps loose jacked the motor home up till they could get between the body and the top of the tank, changed every thing lowered mh down put the straps on and was ready to go about 3 hours. Hope this helps.
Happy Traveling
God Bless


Eugene
2002 Silverado 2500HD Duramax
2004 Montana 3670RL
Full Timer as of 11/1/13

summerwinds48

Florida

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Posted: 11/01/11 08:13pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the comments re the fuel pump. Saw the wiring harness and connector going up and over the tank, will check that next for voltage. I'm a full-timer, so the problem came up at my home location during a monthly run-up. Only inconvenience will be possible overnight stay at mechanics' shop after being towed. The suggestion of building an underframe on jack stands for holding the tank, then jack up the motorhome sounds good, never thought of that approach. Probably best to have the whole fuel system and tank cleaned out and pressure tested at this point to avoid problems for future trips.

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