Dave H M
IL
Senior Member
Joined: 08/11/2006
View Profile
 Offline
|
If it were mine I would get it up on jack stands and pull the tires and rotors and do come close inspection.
my rotors and pads looked good to me until the tires were pulled.
|
mkirsch
Rochester, NY
Senior Member
Joined: 04/09/2004
View Profile
|
I should hope that one would be able to tell the difference between ABS and a warped rotor when pressing the brake pedal.
ABS in my experience is more of a high-frequency vibration, not a pulse, and it stays the same frequency as the truck slows. You should also hear a god-awful growling coming from under the hood.
If the pulsating slows as the truck slows, it's a rotor or steering problem.
2002 Chevy 3500 DRW 8.1L/Allison
2000 Palomino B1500
...and the reason why I need a DRW to haul a Palomino:
2004 United 7x14 tandem axle enclosed toy trailer
2011 PJ 8x20 7-ton deckover equipment trailer
|
1L243
Astoria, Oregon
Senior Member
Joined: 02/26/2006
View Profile
Offline
|
And one would think it would do it all the time but it doesn't. All one can do is have it checked out by a professional... He gave it a OK. We will be heading out again and will see if it still does it.
2011 Work and Play 30WR. Added 2nd AC, four deep cycle batteries.
|
coolbreeze01
Redding, Ca
Senior Member
Joined: 08/24/2006
View Profile
|
The major advantage of an exhaust brake, is eliminating a bunch of that brake pedal action. Good luck.
2008 Dodge 3500 With a Really Strong Tractor Motor...........
LB, SRW, 4X4, 6-Speed Auto, 3.73, Prodigy P3, Blue Ox Sway Pro........
2007 Komfort 212 on 225 75R 15E Maxxis 8008 Tires.........
|
retired-tech
flint mi
Senior Member
Joined: 11/28/2011
View Profile
Offline
|
as others have stated the front end could cause a lot of your problem. the brakes could also be a problem. both should be inspected closely. i do not beleive the abs will cause the problem you are having.
2000 K3500 CCLB DRW 6.5 TURBO
2009 Cougar 320 SRX
2007 atlas 24 auto hauler
1987 GMC origional low miles
|
|
|
bartlettj
Forest Grove, OR
Senior Member
Joined: 04/24/2012
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
I'm one of the camp that suggests a worn out ball joint or tie rod end, possibly combined with a bad alignment. It can be a bad wheel bearing, too, but usually they make a heck of a racket when they are as loose as that.
Rotors don't magically warp and unwarp, and they don't get coated with anything but rust if they sit (and the rust scrubs off the first time you use the brakes). Because weight and force transfer affects how the suspension sets, it is likely that the downhill moves everything to a spot where it oscillates a bit under braking. I would guess that the problem is going to get worse and will occur on flat ground soon unless you replace the worn parts.
The trailer brakes could exacerbate the problem, if you have an inertial controller. If you get a good shake going, it could start making the trailer brakes oscillate too, but I think that is a symptom and not a cause of the problem.
|
joshuajim
Mojave Desert
Senior Member
Joined: 04/29/2006
View Profile
|
I wonder if there could be a possibility of only one front wheel ABS actuating. If so,as the ABS wheel releases it would cause the steering wheel to jerk to the non working side. Don't know enough about ABS to know if this is possible.
|
RVUSA
Orlando, FL, USA
Senior Member
Joined: 01/04/2005
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
nah it's the rear rotors and worn shocks in the back. Soon as the weight is lifted off the rear when braking downhill the wheels start hopping because the rear rotors are warped. Having bad shocks lets them go spastic.
|
joshuajim
Mojave Desert
Senior Member
Joined: 04/29/2006
View Profile
|
bartlettj wrote:
Rotors don't magically warp and unwarp, and they don't get coated with anything but rust if they sit (and the rust scrubs off the first time you use the brakes).
Sorry, but rotors will build a film from the brake pads.
This is a direct quote from Tirerack.com.
All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder. Here are a few things to keep in mind when installing new rotors and pads:
|
BarneyS
S.E. Lower Michigan
Moderator
Joined: 10/16/2000
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
joshuajim wrote:bartlettj wrote:
Rotors don't magically warp and unwarp, and they don't get coated with anything but rust if they sit (and the rust scrubs off the first time you use the brakes).
Sorry, but rotors will build a film from the brake pads.
This is a direct quote from Tirerack.com.
All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder. Here are a few things to keep in mind when installing new rotors and pads:
He said "...they don't get coated with anything but rust if they sit..."
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD
Visit our website here
|
|
|
