Met with the service manager at my local dealership this morning, showed him the photos posted here and told him my story - including the fact I was the last to remove and replace the rear wheels. When I finished up with, "The dealership where I had the repairs done said GM wouldn't cover it" his response was, "Bullsh!t, I'll get you a check cut to reimburse you for your cost of repairs."
Just had a thought on a HOW2 for the boys, who are now building their own
bicycles and time to teach them about fastener metrics (strength, torque, HOW2 calculate the clamping force, etc).
Going to buy some small (think 5/16 or 3/8) bolts from grade mud hen
to grade 8 and take a torque wrench to them in a vice holding the
nuts. They are going to break a bunch of them letting them
experiment with various torque settings to see how the point of failure changes from grade 3 up through grade 8. Will also have a
sheet showing the various grades vs size vs torque. Geez, think I'll
also get some bigger ones for the older boy to really crank on them.
Should be fun...
PS...for those who don't know or have much experience with torque wrenches...they
are more than tools, but instruments. Dial them down to their lowest setting
when not in use. Store them in cool, steady temps. DO NOT drop or otherwise
induce shock loads on them.
Hold the head with one hand and the other hand in the 'center' of the handle
area, as the torque is based on that distance between hands. Holding the head
allows the torque to be centered on the bolt/nut and not be at an angle.
This is a GREAT thread and even better results ! Tell that dealer I
applaud the way they stood up and did the right thing
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
One of my daughters bought me a torque wrench that goes to 250lb/ft, Husky brand from Home Depot. I use it for lugs and the WDH. One word of caution, don't use a torque wrench for breaking the lugs loose or tightening things (beyond when the wrench clicks). I learned that after I broke mine and got a new one (HD replaced it) and read the instructions. I keep mine in the camping toolbox so I have it.
Nice bunch of stuff but..................................
How often do you hasve your tires rotated? do you check them after ? ever?
I rotate every 5000 miles as it is free. Never have had to check the tightness.
I've checked the wheels on my TT after tire change out and they are torqued at 150#
If I get a moment I may check out the truck as tires are new.
One other point at the factory it is near impossible for the wheels not to be at the correct torques, period.
2015 GMC D/A, CC 4x4/ Z71 ,3.73,IBC SLT+
2012 Jayco 322 FKS
2 Trek bikes
It must be time to go, the suns out and I've got a full tank of diesel! Lifes short enough without bitch'n about it!
Yes, and reward him with your business for being a stand up guy.
They have definitely earned my business.
I put my new torque wrench to all 32 lug nuts this afternoon. A few were over 140 (mostly on the front wheels - not removed since leaving the factory, at least not to my knowledge) but most were very close. Now they are ALL at 140.
A question. I see someone recommended not loosening wheel bolts with a torque wrench. Right after installation, shouldn't they come off with the same torque that put them on? What about later, and why? I do oil, or anti-seize, all wheel studs prior to install, to reduce corrosion and thread wear.
I seldom use a torque wrench except for headbolts and bearing caps. And I use a torque wrench for bolts that appear small for their load. And then I use blue Loctite. I also have a torque-to-yield guage for newer headbolts, but I regard angles as fairly easy to guess at.
I merely recheck wheel lugs after a couple of miles. I find it hard to believe anyone would go more than just a few miles without checking. If any are ever found loose, I will check again, but I have seldom found any loose. Once the loosening stops, it seems unlikely that they will ever loosen again. This is not true of all bolts, especially those found on early European motorcycles, and some early Chinese stuff.
Someone mentioned the remaining stud threads weren't damaged on the OP's 2011 Silverado. Perhaps aluminum wheels don't scar threads on the way off like steel does?
I did have some wheel studs break on my 1959 El Camino one time in the '70's. The break "coned" just like the OP's. A timely check planned for re-torque found 3 bolts on the passenger side snapped clean off. The other two were holding the wheel on and were not even loose. After the vehicle was driven just a few miles, they broke on the side that my business partner tightened after we replaced a set of permanently chained wheel and tires with road rubber. I had a huge floor jack that could quickly lift both sides of an axle by the punkin nearly 3 feet up.
My partner did have the habit of breaking bolts when he worked on stuff, and I did help convince him he did needed to use a torque wrench in the future and we bought one. He still believed more is better, but at least he quit breaking bolts on company equipment. Apparently bolts will withstand a few pounds over "for good measure".
Days spent camping are not subtracted from one's total.
- 2000 Excursion V-10 - 2000 F-250 CC 7.3L V-8
- 2004 Cougar Keystone M-294 RLS, 6140# tare
- Hensley Arrow - Champion 4000w/3500w gen
- Linda, Wes and Quincy the Standard Brown Poodle