me2
Wherever
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REWahoo wrote:Bipeflier wrote:
The owners manual for my 2011 2500 HD states 140 lb/ft torque on the wheel nuts/studs.
Interesting that the manual gives only this one spec yet the truck comes with at least three different wheel size options, including both steel and aluminum.
Its not the rim strength/material that matters. None of the rims should be "squished" by the force associated with the bolt torque.
The bolts are 9/16" ish, ie 14mm and that is an optimum torque for them.
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RedAce
Stratford
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Did you check the torque on the remaining three wheels to see if they were over or under torqued? That might tell you something.
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me2
Wherever
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REWahoo wrote:The lug nuts were very difficult to remove when I installed the springs. I had to really struggle to get them off. How long was your strong arm ? 140 ftlbs is about 100 pounds of pull on an 18" strong arm. Most people have no idea how much force that is. OP: I'm not dissing you when I say that.
Question: Did you feel any vibration before the wheel departed ?
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45Ricochet
North Idaho
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Joined: 09/04/2009
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3/4" torque wrench  You have a serious roll off huntindog 
My half inch also gets more torque than I ever would need.
I'm with jarlaxle, I'd sure have the smart phone recording that service adviser's statement.
What's next, no sockets just pliers.
06 Ram 3500 CC LB Laramie 4x4 Dually 5.9 Cummins Smarty Jr 48RE Jacobs brake
GVWR 12,200 RAWR 9350
06 Grand Junction 34' High profile 15500 GVWR 3200 pin Mor/ryde 5500 Onan genny Dual A/C Wet bolts
27' Hallett 502, 500HP
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stubblejumper
Saskatchewan
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Amazing !!!!
48 responses and they all come down to one little thing.
Torque properly the first time and recheck regularly.
Good thing that this was not a real technical question
1999 Winnebego Chieftain
Wayne & Leila and Teddi (the Kid in the brown fuzzy pyjamas)
We are not 2 people that own a dog, we are 2 people that are owned by a dog ..
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REWahoo
Texas Hill Country
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Joined: 09/07/2007
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me2 wrote:
Question: Did you feel any vibration before the wheel departed ?
Yes, just prior to launch...
2011 Silverado 2500HD LTZ Duramax 4x4
2007 Jayco Eagle 291RLTS
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REWahoo
Texas Hill Country
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RedAce wrote:Did you check the torque on the remaining three wheels to see if they were over or under torqued? That might tell you something.
No, I didn't have the proper tools (I will tomorrow).
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ausie607
white lake
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May I ask some dumb questions
-2 studs have rust 'old breaks'
-2 studs appear to be new 'fresh breaks'
-there is 'no' scoring "rubbing, errosion of base metal" on the rotor where the missing/broken studs are
-1 stud appers to be missing, like it was never there. The studs just don't fall out.
-remaining three studs don't have any damage from the rim to the threads as would be expected before the nuts fell off and the wheel followed. Where are your nuts?
How the frick did the wheel fall off without breaking the remaining three studs or the lose rim did NOT damage the treads of the three remaining studs. Again, where are your nuts?
I'm not surprised that GM did not pay out on the waranty. Elmer Fud would have a stuttering time trying to explain this. I'm sure BENGay will have an equasion to explain the omission.
Correction: benK
* This post was
edited 11/07/11 08:45pm by ausie607 *
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wcjeep
Tacoma, Wa
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A over torque situation could crack the aluminum. Carefully check the remaining wheels. Dodge uses the same axle. I don't recall this being a problem.
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BenK
SF BayArea
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REWahoo wrote:snip....
Per the service manager: "We don't use a torque wrench on these HD trucks, we just bear down on the lug nuts with the air wrench."
I'm asking my local service manager tomorrow to retorque all the wheels. If he says "we don't use a torque wrench on them", the conversation will be interesting from that point forward.
Wow, I'd not ever use that shop again !
My 1/2" air gun has a 500 ft/lb rating when set on 'high' and did test
it on some old hubs laying around They twisted and broke off 9/16"
studs like they were nothing. Air line is set at 110 PSI
I use torque sticks for the initial tightening and before I had those
torque sticks, impact gun set at low and only snugged them up and most
times can still hand tighten them (fingers only) some more.
My 3/4" air gun has a 900 ft/lb rating, but have not tested it on
anything to 'break' it...yet.
My 1/2" torque wrench (have 3) and the old one (beam lever pointer
over a graduated scale...my first one ever and is over 40 years old)
has a 150 ft/lb rating. Other click type has a 150 ft/lb rating. The
newest one has a 250 ft/lb rating.
My 3/4" torque wrench has 700 ft/lb rating...gotta get a new one,
buddy dropped it (don't let folks borrow your tools)
I can get over 200 ft/lbs on my cross wrench, as each arm is about
18" long and since two of them, the force is doubled.
So, depends on which impact wrench they have, it's condition and
how much air pressure they have on the line that feeds it. Even a well
worn 1/2" impact gun with 80 PSI should be good for over 300 ft/lbs.
Ask if they have it set at 'low' or does it have different power
settings...better yet, check it before asking or telling them what
you are looking for.
Again, that shop has trouble written all over them and suggest running
away from them.
Have them test it on some other's studs by "bear down" on
them. Then take a torque wrench and dial in 140 ft/lbs. If it clicks
then it is at least that much. Then dial in 180 ft/lbs or some higher
number. It should NOT click, but allow the nut to rotate. If it does
click, then it is at least at that higher dialed in torque.
Continue till it finally does rotate the nut. That torque setting is
now ABOVE the previous setting/test.
This is where the old beam torque wrenches are better. If you have
one or know of one, use it by torquing the above test nut till it
starts to turn. That is the torque value their method tightened the
nuts to....the point at which the nut starts to turn.
Bet they over tightened the nuts and you were living on borrowed time
till one more broke. Plus all of the other lug nuts were loosening
to finally snap that last stud...
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
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