I've been thinking of using a 10,000 pound ratchet strap hooked to the Lance centering guides at the front of the camper and coming back and around in a big "U" to the front centering guide on the other side. I have to work out the details.
I use my camper on very steep trails so the chance of it shifting rearward is real. It has happened to me. Of course, I loosen the tie downs when I get off road, so shifting can happen. It is not, however, going to slide out the back, no matter how steep, just shift.
I figured the strap should be forgiving enough to work.
Remember, off-road resistance is futile.
regards, as always, jefe
My camper does not slide, but then I tie it down and not sure why you wouldn't either. Learned my lesson once with a load of sheetrock.
You might look into some of the threads that talk about the various devices. It would be less invasive than cutting up your Truck Camper.
Maybe you are looking for someone to agree with you, that you don’t really want to remove your “ball” for your goose neck. Seems like a “Hide-a-Ball” would be a lot less work than all this welding, cutting, fitting and potential air leak, you are contemplating.
* This post was
edited 11/11/11 03:22am by bka0721 *
I like the fact that are looking at ideas to improve things . I'm not sure that this particular idea will work .
It's like wearing an old belt . After time the hole becomes larger with wear. The camper starts sliding again and now you have an oblong hole to repair.
A good set of tiedowns on the correct foam or soft rubber mat will do the job. The people that are having sliding issues with tc's are doing something wrong. Either the camper is sliding on the mat or the mat is sliding on the bed. When that occurs too much stress is being applied to the tiedown eyes.
I have seen many tc basements open while repairs are being done. They are not heavy duty constructions. IMO, it's too weak of a structure to support a sliding 4000# camper if that should happen. The other thing that comes to mind are all the plumbing parts and holding tanks that you would have to miss. If you bought a new camper, nothing would line up.
1 most if not all tc floors and basement floors are not built to withstand the type stresses such a system would place on the campers framing
2 very difficult to perfectly aline the pin to the hole ,after all it would be hidden from view and then imagine the possible damage caused by lowering heavy camper on a area other than the reciever hole .
My camper's floor is made from 7/16" OSB. A gooseneck ball would just tear a nice slot clear to the front of the camper if it slid back.
If there were a socket and proper reinforcing structure in the floor, this would be a great idea. Drop it on the gooseneck ball, latch it in place. No tiedowns required.
Better yet, use one of the new hide-a-ball hitches like the B&W Turnover Ball, and have a probe mounted in the floor of the camper that mated with the hitch frame like the B&W Companion hitch does.
Right now, though, campers are designed with the hard points at the corners of the wings, not in the floor.
2002 Chevy 3500 DRW 8.1L/Allison
2000 Palomino B1500
...and the reason why I need a DRW to haul a Palomino:
2004 United 7x14 tandem axle enclosed toy trailer
2011 PJ 8x20 7-ton deckover equipment trailer