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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > Atwood Water Heater drain plug twisted off

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Pa

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Posted: 11/21/11 09:41am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Happened to me a few years ago and once I got it out(pliers, screwdriver, etc.) I installed a radiator type petcock. Now easy to drain. Simple twist with finger and thumb.

sundancer268

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Posted: 11/21/11 12:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bea PA wrote:

We replaced ours with brass and have had no problems. We drain and clean our heater after every trip.


Get the BRASS Plug out of there. Attwood has an aluminum tank and the brass plug will cause galvanic corrosion of your tank. Brass is a more noble metal so the tank will be pin holed eventually. Apparently the relief valve is electrically isolated from the tank and will not cause the corrosion . The rate of corrosion will all depend on the properties of the water you have in the heater most of the time. I would just replace it with a CPVC plastic plug and be done with it.


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Yankee Clipper

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Posted: 11/21/11 01:42pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This happened to me, and I drilled out the plastic, then used a dremmel tool to grind of the plastic to the threads. The plastic in the threads came out when I used a battery terminal brush to ream it. I replaced it with a brass fitting from Lowe's for $2.99
Hope this helps.


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Posted: 11/21/11 03:12pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

EZ out is the ticket if you can get the plug to move. If not drill it out to the just under the thread dia. then heat it with a torch dig as much out as you can and then run the correct NPT to clean the threads Be careful not to go too deep with the NPT as you could make the thread oversized.


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garry1p

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Posted: 11/21/11 03:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I suggest you use Teflon tape when you put in the new plug.
You don't have to snug the plug down as tight and it is much easer to remove the plug at the end of the season.


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wolfe10

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Posted: 11/21/11 03:52pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

garry1p wrote:

I suggest you use Teflon tape when you put in the new plug.
You don't have to snug the plug down as tight and it is much easier to remove the plug at the end of the season.


Yup, I use 2.25 wraps of teflon tape on the nylon plug.


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chili's trip

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Posted: 11/21/11 04:31pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks Guys! I can't believe the response to my question! (25) This forum is a great resource. I removed the thread part of the plug with a nipple extractor purchases at Menards as suggested by John & Joey and others. Worked like a champ! Thanks!


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oldchief7155

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Posted: 11/21/11 04:39pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

X2 on getting rid of the brass plug. It will cause dissimilar metal corrosion and require a new water heater due to the aluminum being warden away.

John&Joey

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Posted: 11/21/11 04:41pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

chili's trip wrote:

Thanks Guys! I can't believe the response to my question! (25) This forum is a great resource. I removed the thread part of the plug with a nipple extractor purchases at Menards as suggested by John & Joey and others. Worked like a champ! Thanks!


Now that you know how easy it is, make sure you post next time someone has the same problem. All of these posts on digging, heating, and cutting is for the birds.

BTW Wolf, I use 2.75 turns of teflon tape on that tapered plumbing threaded nylon bolt.

mowermech

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Posted: 11/21/11 05:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

oldchief7155 wrote:

X2 on getting rid of the brass plug. It will cause dissimilar metal corrosion and require a new water heater due to the aluminum being warden away.


The aluminum alloy in the tank is aluminum and zinc.
A brass plug is copper and zinc.
(YES, I am well aware there are traces of other elements in both.TRACES!)
I have used brass plugs in Atwood tanks for many years. I have never seen any evidence of dissimilar metals corrosion. I have always used teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads.
The brass or bronze relief valve is not "electrically isolated" from the tank metal.
By the way, before I retired I was an A&P mechanic, working on fire bombers. I was well versed in corrosion of all types; dissimilar metals, electrolytic, chemical, intergranular, the whole gamut of corrosion. Fire retardant is corrosive, and often caustic, depending on type. We saw all kinds of corrosion.
Of course, YOUR experience may vary.


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