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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers

 > Quick question about that corner moldings

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Gdetrailer

PA

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Joined: 01/05/2007

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Posted: 11/21/11 04:40pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

vladen writes "Time consuming, Me I think I'd just go back in with 100% silicone window an door caulk.

err removal? probably a plastic scraper, Paint thinner may soften the old stuff up some too"


Egad s, not silicone! That is a terrible product to use since it doesn't always stick well and makes an overall mess. On top of that if you ever need to reapply caulking silicone does not stick well to it's self at all. My first TT the PO had done that, made such a mess and never, ever was able to get the corners to seal for long.

"No Iwouldnt take off the metal trim/molding"

Wrong, just plain wrong.

Leaving old dried up caulking in place and slathering on caulk over top does not address the screws which are under that plastic strip, they will leak and after a while rots out the corner.

The CORRECT way is to remove the ENTIRE metal corner trim, period. The screws holding the trim in place is hidden under that plastic center strip. Pull the plastic strip, remove all screws then carefully pull the metal trim from the trailer, you must be careful since you want to reuse the trim. It will be stuck well but some heat (gently with a heat gun or sitting out in the sun will soften the old caulking).

Once the trim is off you remove all of the old caulking from the trailer and the strip, mineral spirits will help get all left over residue off.

Then the PROPER material to use is called butyl rubber caulking tape.

See HERE for butyl caulking

Once all surfaces are clean of all old caulking you can place the new butyl rubber tape on the trailer straddling BOTH sides of the corner. Then reinstall the corner strip and plastic cover.

Honestly unless you are able to go up and down a ladder for a few hrs you might be better off to let the dealer handle this since it will be a lot of physical work.

On top of that I would have them inspect the roof trim on the sides of the trailer, chances are that will need the same removal and replacement as the corners.

Bonefish writes "If the pictures are from the 2011 Heartland Trail Runner 27FQBS.

Why would it not be covered under warranty if it is coming apart at the corners?"


That is not going to be covered by warranty since it IS normal and routine maintenance the the OWNER is supposed to do. This is something along with all the roof seams that that should be inspected on a yearly basis and replaced as soon as possible when one notices any cracks.

Be proactive and take action and your trailer will be able to stay together for a long, long time. Failure to do this routine maintenance will result in a very short life of a rather expensive item.

selectsplat

Chesterfield, VA

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Joined: 06/12/2010

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Posted: 11/21/11 05:27pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gdetrailer wrote:


Be proactive and take action and your trailer will be able to stay together for a long, long time. Failure to do this routine maintenance will result in a very short life of a rather expensive item.


The dealer said it would take 4-6 hours. I think they charge around 70 per hour or so. Plus the materials, and wow, yeah, thats kind of an expensive yearly maintenance, especially considering I just spent $150 for the winterization.

They *said* the roof was fine, and that it was only the corner molding.

I talked to them again after talking to you, and they said they would contact heartland and see if they would cover this since it's such a new trailer. They sounded skeptical, but at least they are trying, I guess.


2011 Heartland Trail Runner 27FQBS
2010 Bayliner 175
2008 Toyota Tundra DC 5.7L iForce 4wd
2003 Chevy Trailblazer 4.3L 4wd
2006 EZGO PDS
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Aluminum Siding

So Cal

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Posted: 11/21/11 07:49pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

selectsplat wrote:

I'm leaning in this direction. It doens't sounds too hard, jsut time consuming. Can you tell me how/where to removoe the plastic strip?

Also, are you sure this is butyl tape and that it comes off easily? I've heard other say I need some sort of liquid remover?

Finally, is the 'putty' you refer to a seperate product than the butyl tape? If not, is it a seperate substance that comes with the product? Or are you referring to the butyl tape when you say 'putty'?


Aluminum Siding wrote:

To do it correctly, Remove the plastic strip from the corner molding. Get a drill bit socket. You’ll have the screws out in no time. Remove the molding and scrape off the old butyl tape. It removes very easily. Get a roll of at least 1 inch but 1 and ½ inch works best. Roll the tape down the corner and form it to the sides. Put you molding back and screw it on Smush the putty in all the crevices that have gaps. Run a putty knife along both sides of the molding to clean the parts that oozed out. You’ll have to do that again in a week or so as it will still be forming to the corner of the trailer. You can get Butyl Putty Tape at most trailer shops or order it online. By the way. Yours doesn’t look too bad but a tiny trickle of water could get in it you didn’t fix it.


Butyl Putty Tape is Putty. It is in a tape form with a paper backing that peels off once you apply it. The link will show you a pretty good pict. You can take a piece of it and it will form like putty you could even roll it in a ball. Your molding plastic that covers the screws will pull right out. to put it back just pinch it back into the grooves. You can just scrape the old putty tape off. Use a plastic putty knife so you don't scratch the paint. If you really want to get it clean use an oil based cleaner. I used Goo Gone the yellow colored liquid in the clear bottle. You can use baby oil or Wd40 too. Clean the cleaner off with fantastic or 409. Otherwise the oil based cleaner will keep your new tape from sticking. Have fun. http://www.levisnailsandscrews.com/butyl-tape.php

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