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Topic: schematics/wiring diagram for a 1995 fleetwood southwind 34'

Posted By: faylady01 on 11/25/11 08:41pm

Can anyone help me out? I have looked and search for a wiring diagram/schematics for my 32' fleetwood southwind motor home. I have a drain on the engine battery, have check and replaced all that has been suggested... I am at a lost at what to do next. So I am in search for the schematics on the unit. Would appeciate any help in finding this. If anyone knows of who I can call to buy the schematics
this will I believe to be a huge help in getting my motorhome on the road for the Christmas Holidays.
Thank you

* This post was edited 11/25/11 08:50pm by faylady01 *

Posted By: MrWizard on 11/25/11 08:55pm

Are talking about the engine/chassis/starting battery
Or the house/RV side

Radiate The Happy

Connected using Verizon and AT&T
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

Posted By: garym114 on 11/25/11 09:28pm

A little history from previous post:
"All ready to take our trip. The engine battery is dead. So I go and buy a new battery. It looks all ready to go. We had traveled about 35 miles.... the new battery drained dead. Again buy another battery... replaced and decided to go back to the lot just to check everything out. Totry and find out what is draining the engine battery.

In the mean time as I am traveling back to the lot we had put the AC on and you can see from the gauges that the battery is slowly draining.

We were told need to check the altenator, we did and it was bad. So we replaced the altenator. When checking the engine battery it still
will not charge up to the 13.5.... about 10volts.

Then again we were told that it could be the isolater....we replaced the isolater.

Still the battery will not charged to 13.5... something keeps draining the battery.

Well now we were told check the clyinord(think i spelled that wrong)... that was replaced.... battery still will not charge to 13.5 and if we try to use the ac or use the radio you can see the battery going down"

Is it a chevrolet of ford chassis?

2000 Sea Breeze F53 V10 - CR-V Toad
Some RV batteries live a long and useful life, some are murdered.
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Posted By: SoakedKarma on 11/25/11 10:34pm

I would suspect the NEW alternator if it doesn't charge fully.. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good especially if it's a rebuilt..

Check external alternator voltage regulator if so equipped..

No way for a radio to draw much current lest it's hooked up to a blow your windows out audio amp.

Starter solenoid is only activated when the key is in the start position, while cranking the engine, so doubt that was even near the problem..

Quick Google search: "F53 V10 "voltage regulator"" turned up PDF FILE which states

If the original equipment battery is replace by more than
one battery, or a battery of a larger capacity, the battery
charging power supply circuit must be checked and
revised to carry the additional loads.

F-Super Duty Class A Motor Home Chassis (F53) has a
separate wire to maintain Keep Alive Power to the PCM.
The addition of a battery cut-off switch must not affect
the operation of this circuit.

The electronic voltage regulator base must always be
connected to the battery, engine chassis ground when
the ignition switch is in either the ON or START position.
The voltage regulator will be damaged if the connection
does not exist when the ignition switch is energized.

Voltage regulator is where I would start looking..

Posted By: hottubkid on 11/25/11 10:39pm

What about the power disconnect sol??
2004 SOUTHWIND 36E Tow 2003 CRV

Posted By: Golden_HVAC on 11/26/11 06:41am


From what I have read, you did not establish if the battery is going dead because of a drain on the battery while the engine is off, or if the battery is not being charged while the engine is on.

Someone mentioned that you replaced the alternator. If the battery is still not getting 13.5 volts while the engine is running, that problem needs to be corrected. This can be a broken wire between the alternator and the engine battery, or a bad connection, such as a electrnic battery isolator installed between the engine alternator and engine battery. Your motorhome should not have a electronic battery isolator, yet should have a 12 volt solinoid type battery isolator that is energixed when the engine is runnning.

If you have one of those huge diode type battery isolators,get rid of it. If you have a broken wire between the alternator and engine battery, replace it with some #2 wire, it is rated to carry the full 130 amp output of the alternator.

Then there should also be #2 or #4 wire between the alternator to engine battery wire and the battery isolator that feeds power to the chassis batteries.

SO what voltage is the motorhome coach battery? If that is below 12.5 volts, then this can be the start of the alternator problems too. The alternator is designed to keep the battery charged, not to recharge a dead battery. Most new alternators have a big warning sign on them that states "Recharge the battery before installing this alternator or alternator failure can result."

So a dead coach battery that is 220 - 440 amp hour capacity (2 or 4 batteries are typical for your coach) will certainally overload the alternator if you start the engine with the coach battery below 50% full.

If the coach battery was above 75% full, then you can actually drive the RV without the alternator putting out power! Just running the generator, and that will supply up to 45 amps to the coach batteries, and the battery isolator that came with the RV will allow it to keep the engine battery full while the engine is running, IF the isolator is wired correctly, and if the generator is running, and the converter/charger is working correctly.

So as always, we need additional information to help you.

You probably need the chassis wiring diagram, not the coach wiring diagram.

You need to let us know of the coach battery voltage is OK or not. If not OK, what is wrong with the coach battery charging system?

Did someone install a electronic type battery isolator at some point? This should be removed if there is one, as they cause a 1 - 2 volt drop when installed, and this is why Fleetwood went to a solinoid that looks like a car starter solinoid, but is actually a little different, rated to stay on for hours at a time, and rated for about 100 amps. I replaced mine with a forklift relay $6C017 from rated at 115 amps and 100,000 on-off switches, with silver allow contacts.

Sears sells a clamp on amp meter that can measure DC amperage by clamping over the DC wires. It can be used to measure the amperage going into the battery while the engine is running, or a draw on the battery while the engine is off. Then removing one fuse at a time, you can figure out what fuse is allowing that power to escape the battery.

Good luck!


Posted By: bsinmich on 11/26/11 06:56am

You might find what you are looking for in a Motors Manual at the library. You need the Schematic for the chassis. I had a 35' '96 Pace Arrow that would draw the battery down when in storage. I went with a simple battery disconnect switch on the battery and never worried about it again. That was a Chev. P-30 chassis.

1975 GMC Eleganza II & 1995 Roadtrek Versatile. Both old enough to vote and drink (gas)

Posted By: Grey Mountain on 11/26/11 08:20am

Go to the Fleetwood RV home page, find customer service or FAQs and ask your question. They sent me a complete battery wiring diagram and schematic for the entire rig.


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Posted By: Golden_HVAC on 11/26/11 01:26pm


Thank you for your response....

I have been trying to response to many of our members and for some reason I am not able to reply to the many who have been trying to
help me. I am sorry for how the posts appears... if you can tell me how to reply properly would very much be appeciated.

We have a 32' southwind fleetwood, with a 350 chevy engine.
T3D Chassis

when we checked the voltage it always been 12.5 or lower.

When starting the engine... even with a new battery... it completly drains the "engine" battery. The house batteries are fine.

We have replaced the altenator(2x's), cylindor, relay switch, the starter and engine batteries (2x's)

I know I am repeating myself... I have not found a way to reply to the many people who have tried to help out. Once again Thank you and for being patient on being with a newbie on the Good Sams Forums site.
Fondly Faylady

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Somehow I think you are a little confused about the RV. GMC did not make "to my knowlege" a class A motorhome with a 350" engine, normally they would have been the 454 engine. The Fleetwood Southwind is a class A motorhome, usually built on the P30 chassis, or some other version, with a 454 engine or the newer 8.1L engine.

But that does not matter. The problem that you have is really simple, you just need to find a better mechanic. If the alternator is putting out 13.5 - 14.5 volts, and it is not getting to the battery, you need a new 6' length of wire.

If the battery is reading 12.5 volts, and the alternator is also reading 12.5 volts, you need a third alternator.

If the alternator is puting out 14.5 volts, and it is going to a box with three wires and that box output is going to the coach battery at 13.5 volts to ground and to the engine battery at 12.5 volts to ground, then get rid of this box, or put all three terminals on one, and just use the box to tie together all three wires.

Let us know what is happening. We will continue to help out, in the limited way that we can, without actually being able to see the RV.


Posted By: Son of Norway on 11/26/11 09:24pm

Faylady, I took a look at your posts and it appears that this is a serious problem that you've had with your motorhome ever since you joined the forums and it has never gotten fixed. Do you have a good tech that you trust in your area? Maybe we can help you the most by finding you one. Are you in the Sarasota area? I am not familiar with techs in that area but maybe another member reading this reply might be more knowledgeable and could reply with some suggestions. I wish you the best and hope that we can help you get this problem solved.


Miles and Darcey
1989 Holiday Rambler Crown Imperial
Denver, CO

Posted By: Jim@HiTek on 11/26/11 11:59pm

Taking a wild stab, many older RVs have a small gauge wire that goes up to the dash and connects to a fused accessory terminal. That wire has a diode in it that connects to the 'Field' terminal of the alternator. If that wire, diode or any connections between the voltage source and the 'Field' terminal are open or badly corroded, the field of the alternator doesn't get 'Excited' and the main output of the alternator (big wire that goes to the starting battery) just reads battery voltage. Driving with the lights on, radio on, or AC on swiftly bleeds the battery down. Not to mention all the other loads that are in a typical RV whenever the key is in the 'Run' position.

The alternator might be fine, it just won't output 13.5V if it's not getting 'Field' voltage. Have your mechanic check that.

After the alternator(s) were replaced, did the mechanics measure 13.5V at the starting battery with the engine running?

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