RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: F53 Coolant Bleed Procedure

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > F53 Coolant Bleed Procedure

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Sponsored By:
piku

Hatfield

Full Member

Joined: 07/19/2011

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 11/30/11 09:31pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone was versed with the subject. The coolant bleed on the engine seems simple enough but we have the complex system that has the coolant lines running all the way to the back through the water heater and to a rear heater. Long story short, had the motorhome in to replace the exhaust manifolds as well as a head and the mechanic didn't bleed out the cooling system. After a short test drive I noticed this and the service advisor put in dex cool! He assured me the rest of the system was filled with dex cool as well. We drove it about 150 miles and I couldn't shake the feeling that I should investigate. I pulled the radiator cap and saw a nice brown sludge.

The specific things I'm looking for is where or how to bleed the rear accessories. Do they have bleed valves on the water heater and rear heater or? Do I just park the motorhome on a steep downhill with the engine facing up? I would just take it back to them but I'm about done having other people service my vehicles for life. If I can R&R the transmission in a weekend I can handle anything else.


Geeky Nomads! travelling in our 1999 Foretravel U320 4200

John&Joey

Some Location

Senior Member

Joined: 05/20/2007

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 12/01/11 03:51am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A real simple question first. If I remember correctly from another post of yours (and the topic of this post), you have a F53. If that is the case why are you putting a GM product like Dex Cool into a Ford system?

ON EDIT:

Seems like I have to be a little more forward, since now you're getting advice on how to do it.

BUT....


Dexcool and Green coolant DON'T MIX !

IF these coolants get mixed together in your cooling system. Over time, the chemical reaction creates a brown oily like substance. You can find the brown goo on the rad cap, filler neck and the overflow bottle. THe substance will 'float' to the top usually and will get stuck at top of the cylinder heads possibly causing hot spots. According to the severity of the system it can create enough goo to plug the heater core.


Don't believe me, or any other "expert" on this forum. Do some research on your own so you can come up with the correct answer before you go thru all the work of "bleeding the system."

This is how some people end up with "F53 lemons" or "American junk" like your thread Ford F53 Winnebago Adventurer Nightmares
went on about.

* This post was edited 12/01/11 06:30am by John&Joey *

garym114

Bluff Dale, Texas

Senior Member

Joined: 07/24/2006

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 12/01/11 06:14am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What year?


2000 Sea Breeze F53 V10 - CR-V Toad
Some RV batteries live a long and useful life, some are murdered.
Get a Digital Multimeter and Learn How to Use It


fourmat

NJ

Senior Member

Joined: 12/15/2009

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 12/01/11 06:16am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

are you looking to bleede air out or flush the system? I doubt they did anything after the head but top it off


2009 Challenger


piku

Hatfield

Full Member

Joined: 07/19/2011

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 12/01/11 07:17am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I should have been clearer, it's a 1998 Winnebago adventurer on a 1997 F53 chassis. _I_ didn't add dex cool, the service advisor at Bergey Truck service did. I warned him that he was most likely incorrect and he assured me he wasn't. He then proceeded to give me a jug filled with tap water too which just indicates his ignorance. Since the vehicle was hot and the overflow was empty there was no way for me to prove him wrong at the time. I was just happy to see my rig after 1.5 months so I just took it and hoped he actually flushed the system and put dex cool in. There WERE 4 gal of coolant on the receipt. I believe the mechanic that worked on it properly filled it up with the green stuff as there is very little sludge and the coolant is still mostly green.

The reason I am asking about the bleed procedure is because I've had enough of "professionals" and I am just planning to do all my own work from now on to be sure it's actually done properly and in good time. I read about the sludge and plan to flush it and refill with the green stuff - likely Ford branded - this time. I'm *hoping* no significant damage was done as there was no real heating indicated on a carefully watched gauge.

RLS7201

Some Where

Senior Member

Joined: 10/26/2002

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 12/01/11 08:52am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Get a Prestone flushing kit from any parts house. Follow the instruction and make sure you put the "T" in the heater hose that comes from the engine, not the return to the water pump. Flush with garden hose, while starting the engine every few minutes. Once the water from the top of the radiator runs clear, remove the drain plugs from the block and open the drain cock on the lower right rear corner of the radiator. Remove the heater hoses from the water heater and aux. heater. Flush out those hoses and blow out with compressed air. Make sure and drain all the city water that you can. It contains solids that you don't want in the cooling system You should now have all the muck out of the system. Refill with antifreeze and DISTILLED WATER. Beware of those "professionals".

Richard
95 Bounder F53

piku

Hatfield

Full Member

Joined: 07/19/2011

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 12/01/11 09:05am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks, my plan was basically exactly what you described so I guess I Have the right idea I hate having to work on this thing in my driveway with the neighbors wondering what I'm up to. Need to build a BIG garage.

Hank MI

Brighton, Michigan

Senior Member

Joined: 10/18/2010

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 12/02/11 09:45am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can flush it yourself as described, problem is all that antifreeze on the ground. It is toxic and can contaminate the ground water. I need to have my cooling system flushed but I'm not doing it myself. We have a well and I don't want to be drinking antifreeze.

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > F53 Coolant Bleed Procedure
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2014 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS