My 2.5 kva Chinese generator main oil seal which is behind the flywheel is leaked. i need to open the flywheel but dont know the proper way that how to lock flywheel for proper dismentaling. i mean how i stop the flywheel rotation. some one told me to put the cotton rope into the cylinder and then u can open the flywheel gently. what is your opinon? is it right or wrong?
* This post was
edited 12/09/11 06:38am by rizwan *
You will need to remove the flywheel nut (air tools work great,but a regular socket and ratchet is fine)The flywheel can be held in place by wedging a piece of wood against the gear teeth,and then use the correct puller that fits the pattern of the three bolts holding on the starter cup.Do not try to use a three jaw puller on the outside of the flywheel.The flywheel is a taper fit onto the shaft and is keyed. If you do not have the proper tools, take it to a small engine repair shop.Have the correct seal in hand before you start to make things easier.Before you replace the seal, you may want to try one of the Lucas Oil type additives that are made to stop oil seals from leaking,they actually work quite well on small leaks.
Air impact to loosen the nut. Maybe you can hold the sheet metal hub with a wooden stick, and whack a ratchet with a hammer to loosen the nut. Loosening the nut is not the biggest problem. Getting the wheel off, is.
As posted above, the crank is probably tapered with a Woodruff key. So a puller is needed. One that attaches near the shaft...NOT on the outside of the flywheel.
"some one told me to put the cotton rope into the cylinder and then u can open the flywheel gently. what is your opinon? is it right or wrong?
VERY WRONG. A good way to scrap the whole engine. Do to bending conn rod, or many other internal engine (Valves, etc.)things. And besides stopping the shaft from turning won't help you to get the flywheel off the shaft.
'12 F350 SB, CC, SRW, 6.7 PSD, 3.55 RAR, 6 spd auto, Ultimate Lariat pkg
2011 Open Range 393RLS 14,250 GVWR
Pullrite Super Glide 18K
Dont lay it down, inspect it closely right then, looking at all the magnets inside & on the outside of the flywheel for anything stuck to them, if nothing stuck to them, place the flywheel along with the flywheel key in a plactic bag & seal it up.
That way with it in the bag, nothing by chance that is metal can get stuck on to a magnet & then you MISS it when putting the flywheel back on & end up tearing up the charging stator or coil.
Been many time, folks have pulled them off & not even thinking, lay them down & a nut, bolt or washer get sucked up by the magnets, get missed & end up tearing up something else on the engine after the flywheel was put back on.
When installing the new seal, use NO lube on the outer edge of the seal when installing it & it realy wouldnt hurt to use just a bit of the 3M weather strip glue applied onto the case area for a little extra bond between the case & seal.
Do lube the inner lips of the seal, that touch the crank, but be careful not to get any on the outer edge.
Check that crankshaft for up & down play in the bushing, because something caused that seal to fail.
It is not uncommon, for a seal to weep out a small amount of oil, if not the seal lips wont be lubed & soon the crank spinning inside will damage the seal.
* This post was
edited 12/09/11 09:51am by C-Leigh Racing *
AS to pulling the flywheel. IIRC under the cup that you can remove after pulling the center nut there should be two threaded holes to use with a bar and twin stud gear puller. These can be rented for a nominal cost at anyy rental shop and even some auto parts stores.
Yes sir,, give a mechanic a pry bar and a hammer, that'll fix it.. dumb, use a puller.
I've used the rope trick many times on almost every small engine I have including the chain saw, and that's a cheap engine and nothing got broke. if the fly wheel shaft nut is so hard to loosen it breaks a rod when compressing it, you must have had a cheater bar on it.