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Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 12/10/11 10:00am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We FT and have had a 50A portable unit.....plug it into CG pedestal and then go about setting up. It checks for open neutral, reversed polarity, hi/lo voltage.
It has 'tripped' due to bad wiring at pedestal and on low voltage, so I feel in 5 yrs. it has been worth it.

Looked at one of them lock devices but figured WHY....thief could just unplug from pedestal and from side of rig......take the whole dang set up.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 12/10/11 10:34am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Mike,

How about starting a thread on that modification? It sounds fascinating.

mike1poles wrote:


In our unit I installed a regulator and capacitors to keep the load balanced and up to standard 117 low/127 high, but I realize most people are not comfortable to do that, but I have done that for over 40 years.

God bless,
Mike



Regards, Don
Full Time in a Kustom Koach Class C 28'5", 256 watts Unisolar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, Magnum 3000 watt PSW inverter.

MSHappyCampers

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Posted: 12/10/11 10:47am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just go on and buy the Progressive HW50C hardwired EMS and forget ALL those problems! Fantastic customer service (no, I haven't needed it yet), takes care of every type of electrical problem you can possibly have.


Joe & Annette

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hunts500

stockton, calif.

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Posted: 12/10/11 10:51am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One point of consideration between "hardwiring" and "portable". The thing that swung me to portable was that if you have a problem, and the surge protector saves you - a hard wired unit must then be replaced or wired around so you can continue on your trip. With a portable unit - if it is destroyed while protecting your trailer - you can at least continue on your trip.

mike1poles

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Posted: 12/10/11 11:14am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

How about starting a thread on that modification? It sounds fascinating.

Don,

I do not feel comfortable, posting a project like that, for all to read. Unless, the person that I did give the modifications to, had an solid understanding of electrical theory. There are to many "electricians" out there, that get into trouble for themselves and others. The most reported cause of fires, is electrical, most done by non-licensed "electricians".

God bless,
Mike

Michelle.S

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Posted: 12/10/11 01:06pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We too have the portable unit. Have friends with MH and built-in protection and have asked them what happens if the unit fails? OoL unless you want to pull the power panel and move wires from the EMS back to the power panel. And they can be/or go bad. In the spring our portable decided to cut out on high voltage, but is was well below the threshold where it should, so we disconnected and continued our travels till it could be replaced


2011 Chevy 3500HD Ext Cab DRW, Duramax/Allison, 2012 Redwood 36RL, Dual ACs, Fireplace, Sleep # Bed, Auto Sat Dish, Combo Washer/Dryer, Auto Level Sys, Disk Brakes, Onan Gen, 17.5" "H" tires, Mor/ryde IS, Tri-Glide Pin Box, Dual Awnings, Full Body Paint

MSHappyCampers

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Posted: 12/10/11 02:01pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The Progressive HW50C has an bypass switch on the remote indicator. It is my understanding that you can use to bypass the unit if it fails or if it cuts out on high or low voltage.

I just didn't feel I could chance someone stealing a portable unit off the pedestal while we were away from the CG. I guess it would depend on how long you plan to keep the RV.

Lady Fitzgerald

Tempe, AZ, USA, Earth

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Posted: 12/10/11 02:48pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

hunts500 wrote:

One point of consideration between "hardwiring" and "portable". The thing that swung me to portable was that if you have a problem, and the surge protector saves you - a hard wired unit must then be replaced or wired around so you can continue on your trip. With a portable unit - if it is destroyed while protecting your trailer - you can at least continue on your trip.


Hard wired units can be bypassed with the flip of a switch.


Jeannie

Lady Fitzgerald

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Posted: 12/10/11 02:49pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mike1poles wrote:

How about starting a thread on that modification? It sounds fascinating.

Don,

I do not feel comfortable, posting a project like that, for all to read. Unless, the person that I did give the modifications to, had an solid understanding of electrical theory. There are to many "electricians" out there, that get into trouble for themselves and others. The most reported cause of fires, is electrical, most done by non-licensed "electricians".

God bless,
Mike


Including the guy who asked for the thread.

Lady Fitzgerald

Tempe, AZ, USA, Earth

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Posted: 12/10/11 02:57pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

Hi,

If surge is your only concern go to a hard ware store or walmart and get surge protection for the 120 volt items.

If brownouts are more of a concern then an autoformer may be the way to go.


The surge control units you are talking about aren't rated as high for surge and spike protection as whole house units such as the Progressive Industries HW50C.

An autoformer only protects from brownouts only as long as the incoming voltage doesn't go below a certain level. Below that, the autoformer goes into bypass mode, giving you no protection at all. Autoformers have only limited suge and spike protection, no overvoltage or frequency protection, and no protection from miswired pedestals or pedestal wiring that fails while in use.

* This post was edited 12/10/11 03:29pm by Lady Fitzgerald *

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