christopherglenn wrote: Nascar aligns with weights in the drivers seat, the smaller the car and bigger the occupants, the more this is important.
Exactly why I mentioned to have the T H loaded when its aligned, there is some flex in the axels and it could make a difference.
Also a good idea to watch your tire shop guys when they jack up the rig to change tires, DO NOT jack it up on the axel tube.
2008 GMC 2500HD 4X4 DMax CC LB
2004 Thor Wanderer Wagon 247WTB
2006 TE450 Husky
2007 Rhino Sport Edition
christopherglenn wrote: Nascar aligns with weights in the drivers seat, the smaller the car and bigger the occupants, the more this is important.
Also a good idea to watch your tire shop guys when they jack up the rig to change tires, DO NOT jack it up on the axel tube.
This is the first thing that popped into my head when I read the first post. Maybe somebody did tires or brake/bearing service and jacked each axle up a foot or two in from the tire?
Easy access there ya know
* This post was
edited 12/15/11 07:45pm by big buford *
04.5 GMC 2500HD D/A
06 38 CKS Dune Chaser
Chenowth 4-seat Subaru pwr
06 Rhino
06 Raptor 700
Beautiful wife that's much nicer than me
Your axles have too much positive camber. Because all the tires are wearing on the outside edge I doubt very much it is a thrust angle problem. Also solid axle alignment angles are not effected by load and the change in ride height associated with loading so no need to load the trailer prior to checking the alignment angles.
Your Warrior came with Carlisle rims that are only rated for the maximum tire pressure of the tires that came on your trailer. I upgraded to Greenball rims rated for 80 psi when I went to E rented tires on my Warrior and I used steel valve stems too.
pcassidy111 wrote: Your axles have too much positive camber. Because all the tires are wearing on the outside edge I doubt very much it is a thrust angle problem. Also solid axle alignment angles are not effected by load and the change in ride height associated with loading so no need to load the trailer prior to checking the alignment angles.
Your Warrior came with Carlisle rims that are only rated for the maximum tire pressure of the tires that came on your trailer. I upgraded to Greenball rims rated for 80 psi when I went to E rented tires on my Warrior and I used steel valve stems too.
Really ??
I have 24 years experience in brakes and suspension and another 20 years of misc mechanic experience.
I mostly worked on medium and heavy duty trucks and trailers. We had problems with trash trucks getting citations for being over weight. We had sensors put on certain trucks that were often over weight due to the size of the body. The sensors were attached to the 3 axels and detected the deflection in the front beam axel and the 2 rear axel housings and a light would come on if any of them exceeded the limits.
If a heavy duty truck axel deflects with load, I guarantee a HOLLOW TUBE (NOT SOLID) trailer axel will deflect as well. How much is debatable and I won't argue that point. I still suggest that it be loaded when checking the align.
pcassidy111 wrote: Your axles have too much positive camber. Because all the tires are wearing on the outside edge I doubt very much it is a thrust angle problem. Also solid axle alignment angles are not effected by load and the change in ride height associated with loading so no need to load the trailer prior to checking the alignment angles.
Your Warrior came with Carlisle rims that are only rated for the maximum tire pressure of the tires that came on your trailer. I upgraded to Greenball rims rated for 80 psi when I went to E rented tires on my Warrior and I used steel valve stems too.
Really ??
I have 24 years experience in brakes and suspension and another 20 years of misc mechanic experience.
I mostly worked on medium and heavy duty trucks and trailers. We had problems with trash trucks getting citations for being over weight. We had sensors put on certain trucks that were often over weight due to the size of the body. The sensors were attached to the 3 axels and detected the deflection in the front beam axel and the 2 rear axel housings and a light would come on if any of them exceeded the limits.
If a heavy duty truck axel deflects with load, I guarantee a HOLLOW TUBE (NOT SOLID) trailer axel will deflect as well. How much is debatable and I won't argue that point. I still suggest that it be loaded when checking the align.
I don't think that he meant what you think he meant when he said "solid axle"...just sayin' not sayin' either of you are right or wrong. (Hint: solid as in one piece all the way across.)
I too turn wrenches, but for a few years more than 24. If there was an axle tube deflection it would be in the negative camber direction reducing the outside edge tire wear. The distance between the center line of the wheel and the centerline of the spring seat on a trailer is only about 6 inches. IMO the amount of load required on the wheel end required to effect any change of camber angle would be significantly more than realistically possible on that trailer.
pcassidy111 wrote: I too turn wrenches, but for a few years more than 24. If there was an axle tube deflection it would be in the negative camber direction reducing the outside edge tire wear. The distance between the center line of the wheel and the centerline of the spring seat on a trailer is only about 6 inches. IMO the amount of load required on the wheel end required to effect any change of camber angle would be significantly more than realistically possible on that trailer.
1)24 years plus 20 yers equals 44 years total.
2)As I stated, "how much deflection is debatable and I won't argue that point".
3)I agree the camber would change negatively with the load.
4)In an earlier post and Big Bufords post, we suggested that someone may have jacked the rig up on the axel tube and bent it, resulting in a positive camber change. His tire wear would suggest positive camber.
I am not here to argue with anyone, just trying to help the OP out. There has been some good info and some questionable info, but I think most of us have good intensions or real life experiences involving tire issues.
Not here to argue either, but I have to agree as Bob states, the camber of and loaded/unloaded trailer axle changes with loads.....horizontal, vertical, and radial. Obviously the closer the axle is to capacity the more change will be present.
I turn a wrench...only 19 years, own an axle shop, and did trailer/truck/auto alignments for 8 years before leaving and opening my shop.
If you don't believe me, watch the camber change on the loaded trailer while you are following when it hits bumps.....you will be a believer.
I set the axle tracking on my new hauler after the first trip. Then I loaded the snot out of it and towed it 2000 miles......settled in. It is now due for a trip to the alignment shop while it is loaded to 85%. Since I travel at 80-95% loaded on the way out and lighter on the way home, 85% would be the sweet spot.
I forgot to mention, I saw a 5K trailer axel destroyed by a careless mechanic. 2 axel 10k trailer with a "scissor lift" on it still attached to the tow vehical pintle hitch.
The Mechanic jacked it up at the center of the rear axel to pull the wheels etc and check the brakes/service the bearings. Bent it enough to kink the tube and we had to replace it.
Moral of the story is, when you take your rig to the tire shop etc. make sure they jack it up as close to the spring as possible, if they want to remove more than one wheel at a time use more than one jack or jack stands as needed.
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, own an axle shop, and did trailer/truck/auto alignments for 8 years before leaving and opening my shop.
