Chris
Shelter Bay, Wa
Senior Member
Joined: 12/19/2000
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
 Offline
|
OK, you have never said what size your OEM tires are now. If you have 3+ inches between your tires, then going one size larger will not be a problem. That was your original question. ERS confussed the issue with his replies.
Merry Christmas
Chris
My Rig
2001.5 2500 STD CAB AUTO SLT 4x4, CTD 4:10's, Bomb'd to Tow
2005 Cardinal 29WBLX.
|
Snowman9000
IL
Senior Member
Joined: 01/07/2009
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
Chris wrote:That is what pressure charts are for. Tires do not hold up the trailer, air pressure does. If he is going from say a 225/75R16 to a 235/85R16 then he will not need 80 lbs of air. Chris
Is that true for ST tires, that they can be run less than full psi?
2004 Chevy Duramax 2500HD 2WD Crew Cab. B&W Patriot hitch.
2004 Crossroads Cruiser 28RL 5er.
2005 R-Vision Trail Lite B+ 213 6.0 Chevy 3500
|
Snowman9000
IL
Senior Member
Joined: 01/07/2009
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
|
To the OP, you can look at having the trailer lifted, where they will weld rectangular box tubing under the frame and attach the spring hangers to that. It might not cost any more than new tires. Maybe less.
|
Chris
Shelter Bay, Wa
Senior Member
Joined: 12/19/2000
View Profile
Good Sam RV Club Member
Offline
|
Snowman9000 wrote:Chris wrote:That is what pressure charts are for. Tires do not hold up the trailer, air pressure does. If he is going from say a 225/75R16 to a 235/85R16 then he will not need 80 lbs of air. Chris
Is that true for ST tires, that they can be run less than full psi?
Check with the tire manufacturer. Chris
|
ExRocketScientist
Laurel, MD
Senior Member
Joined: 11/11/2010
View Profile
|
Chris wrote:OK, you have never said what size your OEM tires are now. If you have 3+ inches between your tires, then going one size larger will not be a problem. That was your original question. ERS confussed the issue with his replies.
Merry Christmas
Chris
Don't see as how I confused anything. What nobody seems to understand here is that the OPs trailer is not the typical under tired trailer. The manufacturer goes to the expense to put some tires on with a decent load margin. I was simply warning the OP to be careful in trying to put larger tires on that he does not end up with tires that have too high of a load capacity. I guess this lack of knowledge of how the Arctic Fox is built has resulted in the confusion. Sorry about that.
Take a look at the specs on page 4 of the brochure from Northwest Mfg and do the math, you will see the empty weights as a percentage of the total tire capacity is much lower than many of the other manufacturers out there:
http://www.northwoodmfg.com/images/rsync/brochures/Arctic_Fox_Brochure.pdf
Snowman9000 has an excellent idea about putting a subframe on the trailer. From what I have read, it should be about half the cost of 4 new tires. It would make an already strong frame even stronger.
ERS
|
|
|
portablevcb
Tijeras, NM
Senior Member
Joined: 05/04/2006
View Profile
Offline
|
Some more misinformation going on.
The answer for higher capacity tires is simple, check the mfg load charts.
More load capacity is not a bad thing. I do it with our rig for another reason, speed.
With one load range higher and proper inflation pressure my ST tires can be "rated" for higher sustained speeds.
And, yes, if you want to, you can run ST tires at "reduced" pressures to match you load. That's what load charts are for!
For the OP, larger dia tires are only a clearance problem. As others have pointed out, just check the clearance between tires and around the outside. Give enough for full bump stop travel and get wheels/tires that fit within that space. If you change wheels make sure the offset is correct.
But, if you are doing this only because of the way the trailer looks, then I'd say don't change. Unless the angle is extreme then you aren't hurting anything.
2009 Dodge 2500 Double Cab Cummins
2003 Skyline Nomad 24ft Fiver
Me and Wife
Maggie the Old English Sheepdog
|
n7bsn
Yes
Senior Member
Joined: 04/11/2004
View Profile
Offline
|
Snowman9000 wrote:To the OP, you can look at having the trailer lifted, where they will weld rectangular box tubing under the frame and attach the spring hangers to that. It might not cost any more than new tires. Maybe less.
You really don't want to lift a Fox, they already stand very tall. I'd have to go measure my current one. But compare them in most dealer yards with other brands and note that they stand between 3 and 6 inches (base height) above most other brands
2008 F350SD V10 with an 2012 Arctic Fox 29-5E
When someone tells you to buy the same rig they own, listen, they might be right. When they tell you to buy a different rig then they own, really pay attention, they probably know something you don't.
|
n7bsn
Yes
Senior Member
Joined: 04/11/2004
View Profile
Offline
|
I just checked and the floor of my current Fox is 36 inches off the ground
|
ExRocketScientist
Laurel, MD
Senior Member
Joined: 11/11/2010
View Profile
|
n7bsn wrote:I just checked and the floor of my current Fox is 36 inches off the ground
How far off the ground is the bottom of the frame (excluding stabilizer jacks)?
When sitting level, my Jayco is 23" to the bottom of the frame. I have adjusted the springs in the hangers for maximum height and replaced the ST225/75R15 tires with LT245/75R16, however, I lost about 2 inches when I replaced the stock equalizer with the Dexter EZ-Flex. Since my frame is 9.5 inches tall, my floor would be 32.5 inches off of the ground.
|
n7bsn
Yes
Senior Member
Joined: 04/11/2004
View Profile
Offline
|
ExRocketScientist wrote:
How far off the ground is the bottom of the frame (excluding stabilizer jacks)?
When sitting level, my Jayco is 23" to the bottom of the frame. ....
26"
|
|
|
