When I purchased Winnie recently in Arizona a week ago, Discount Tire put six new metal tire valves on...the problem is they are not long enough to accomodate my tire pressure monitors. I talked with Tire Discount this morning and they don't have any metal valves that are any longer.
I use the Pressure Pro Tire Pressure Monitoring System and the short stems recess into the wheel cover and will not allow me to screw the senders in. And, I don't have a good valve setup on the duallys: One side has hose extensions, which I am not fond of...had them on my Dodge truck and seemed as though they were always causing leaks...I removed them...and my problems stopped. The other side has the short metal stems, which I can't even see at this point...so, I'm wondering, "How am I going to air them up?".
Longer metal valves in the front should be easy. I'm looking for a solution for the rear. I was thinking of metal valves that are at a 90 degree angle.
If you've dealt with this and solved, I would certainly appreciate your solution. If you know of a company in Southeast Texas who can solve my problem, I'd appreciate their name and contact info. Private message me if necessary. THANKS!
Happy New Year!
Retired Art Educator, Photographer
Travel with "Baby Girl" (Catahoula Mix)
i went on-line and bought two pairs of valve extensions: one pair is a straight 3" extension for the inner duals, and the other is a 135-degree extension for the outers. now i have easy access to all the dually stems for the sensors, or to air 'em up. the fronts were ok as-is. when i get new tires in about 5 years i will get metal valve stems and do away with the extensions.
1999 Winnebago Minnie, 29', Triton V10, mostly stock. So far...
Mike, we oughta have a Sticky on this! Ford Wheels call for either longer metal stems (2", 2-1/2" probably better) ---OR--- special 15* offset "For Ford Wheels" stems that are 2-1/2" or so. That fix is great for the front. You can probably get your senders onto the rear duals with something like that but you won't be able to add air. For good access, it takes either the TireMan or DuallyValve kit. Here's an example of DuallyValve which is the exact model I have. But I didn't understand the problem with the front wheels needing a longer stem, an angle valve, or an extension. So I'm using short metal airless extensions on the front. Here's the other popular valve kit called Tire-Man Notice it has SIX valves. We used to be able to get DuallyValves inexpensively at a third party vendor but they've kept going up on the price.
And here comes the rub! You could use "airless" extensions with ordinary caps. Airless means the tire's valve core doesn't get depressed till you push a gauge or air chuck onto the extension.
My DuallyValves contain their own valve core, making them an "extended valve" not an "extension" of another valve.
But to use your monitors, the valve's core needs to be depressed. Soon's you add an extension and screw your monitor onto it, you have another potential leak point.
I see you caught in a bind where you can have monitors without a leak source or not being able to add air.
You CAN check rears and add air IF your gauge and air chuck are appropriate, but you'd have to have air-through caps or leave the caps off (which I don't recommend).
Our coach came with 135* extensions on the outers and approx 4" extensions on the inners, but they were not airless and the tires were mounted with rubber valves, not good. I was adding air often and it was still a half-hour project to check and add. Now checking takes only a few minutes and I rarely (six months!) need to aidd air. But I'm still vulnerable to a run-flat or low tire since there's no TPMS.
* This post was
edited 12/26/11 10:11am by j-d *
God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100
Mike, Like j-d mentioned Borg Dually Vavle or Tiremean will take care of getting the valve out to where you can get to it. Another option that worked for me, go to a local comercial, industrial, farm tire dealer tell them what you want to do and they should be able to get you fixed up. The place I used here in Mesa, AZ. had long brass valve stems in stock and bent them to fit in their shop. In and out in less than 2 hours for under $100.00 otd. I think I remember the kits alone on the internet were 125.00 plus you still need someone to install them.
We're not here for a long time, let's have a good time.
That LINK is to Borg/DuallyValve but sold/installed (hopefully) by a tire chain called Les Schwab.
To my knowledge, there are only Borg/Dually and Tire-Man vehicle-specific valve kits. Then there's Generic, where a shop with the supplies, tools and desire can fix you up just as well. The issue is finding them.
Now that my third-party supplier has gone up so much on Borg/Dually kits, AND the Tire-Man kits come with front wheel valves and air-through caps, I'm thinking those are the better deal.
Air-Through Caps work like airless extensions. The valve core isn't pressed till you put a gauge or air chuck on it. They eliminate removing the caps to check pressures. Instead of a few minutes to check air, it's about as fast as you can walk from one wheel well to the next.
Another item not mentioned in the recommendations for the Borg/Tireman valve kits, is that you will not have to add air to the tires near as often. I've had my Borg Dually Valves on now for going on two years and have not lost any pressure.
'01 Dutchman Express 28A, Borg Chrome Dually Valve Stems, Pacific Dualies Wheel Simulators, '06 Tuscon, '06 FLHTC/I
Good Sam Life Member
I have the wheel covers that stick out from the rims. The front valve stems line up with the holes on the front covers but the rear valve stems are between the tires. What is the best way to set-up the rear wheel valve stems for easy access with those cheap wheel covers?