Entropy69
Ohio
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Joined: 06/20/2011
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Thanks for the replies all, this was exactly the kind of thing I was looking for.
I do have a 5000 pound hitch and a GCWR of 17,000 pounds. GVWR is 12,300 and I typically run about at about 12,000 for a normal camping setup. Not sure what I'll be at exactly for this trip, but I estimate I'll be couple hundred pounds lighter than normal since I won't have much of our usual stuff (the movers are packing most of it up and moving it for us and the DW will be driving our other vehicle). But I am concerned about this setup. I repeatedly asked the uhaul guy about it, he looked at my rig and hitch and insisted it wouldn't be a problem and that I would just need to go slower than normal. I asked about WD hitches and/or a brake controller but he didn't think they were necessary. Needless to say, I don't really trust his judgement since it's my a$$ on the line and not his.
I don't have a brake controller or a WD hitch. I'm especially worried about tongue weight. This rig is very, very stable on the road except when the water tank is full and the water tank is at the very rear of the vehicle. When it's full the front tends to wander a bit and the water is about a 300 pound load just forward of the rear bumper. It's manageable but is something you've got to be alert to.
So, I have one reserved but am looking at all options and haven't definitely committed to this - IOW, I'm not financial committed yet to renting this trailer. The trip will be almost exactly 1000 miles. The obvious alternative is to leave the vehicle here (it's a 1971 Chevy Blazer, BTW), fly back up at some point in the future and drive it down solo. I've done that for previous moves prior to owning this RV. That would end up costing a few hundred dollars more than towing plus the extra time involved, but the cost is worth it if the uhaul route is unsafe. And so far it appears that most of you think it is.
Any other thoughts are greatly appreciated.
2007 Four Winds 5000 28A
Chevy Workhorse Chassis, 6.0L Vortec
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carringb
Corvallis, OR
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Joined: 07/28/2003
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If it's not too wide for a tow dolly, I would use that, along with dropping the driveline so it can face forward (or put the T-case in Neutral if its 4x4). It'll make the tongue weight much more manageable. The short wheelbase of the Blazer will make the car-hauler VERY tongue heavy, since the U-haul trailers are only made to position the vehicle all the way forward. There is not provisions to safely secure it if you move it rear-ward. I would expect a vehicle that short to put nearly 1/3 of its weight on the hitch.
Downside of a dolly is no-brakes (not from U-haul anyways).
BTW - I didn't notice the Workhorse part of your sig earlier. Those did have a higher GCWR than the non-workhorse version.
Bryan
2000 Ford E350 DRW Wagon (14-pass all captains chairs)
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Entropy69
Ohio
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Joined: 06/20/2011
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carringb,
Thanks for the reply. I did ask about the dolly and they said my vehicle isn't compatible. That's also good info on the tongue weight issue - thanks!
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Deb and Ed M
SW MI, USA
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Joined: 06/07/2004
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carringb wrote: The short wheelbase of the Blazer will make the car-hauler VERY tongue heavy, since the U-haul trailers are only made to position the vehicle all the way forward. There is not provisions to safely secure it if you move it rear-ward. I would expect a vehicle that short to put nearly 1/3 of its weight on the hitch.
YIKES!! I just looked at Uhaul's trailer and you're right.
We carry a drag race truck #2900 on our #1800 open trailer. Ours (and everyone else we race with) uses axle straps front and back and lets you position the car forward/backward where it balances nicely.
The Uhaul trailer would scare me to death on the back of a "C" motorhome (unless it's a Toterhome)
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ron.dittmer
Northern Illinois
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Joined: 02/26/2007
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Given it is a one way, one time trip, I strongly suggest renting a tow dolly mentioned by others. It is so much lighter with a much lighter tongue weight as well. They should come equiped with surge brakes so there is no fuss with that.
You will need to research how to safely tow your vehicle with a tow dolly. Most vehicles require the drive wheels to be placed on the dolly so they don't spin. For front wheel drive vehicles, a tow dolly is ideal.
Oh, I see you have an old rear wheel drive application. Worst case, you would have to place the front tires on the tow dolly, and unbolt the drive shaft. I wonder if it would be fine to put the trans in neutral and let the drive shaft spin with the differential and rear tires. Maybe idle the engine while in motion so the auto trans fluid would flow properly while the drive shaft is spinnig. So litle extra fuel would get consumed during that one time 1000 mile journey.
Here is a typical tow dolly setup with a front wheel drive vehicle. Note the temporary magnetic-mount tail lights as well. I do wonder if they are required, given the tow dolly has tail lights.
2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow
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Dusty R
Charlotte Michigan 48813
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Joined: 04/05/2003
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At one time there was a lube pump that could be added to a car with an automatic so it could be towed and not hurt.
Also I've heard of over filling the auto transmission so it could be towed.
One could also remove the drive shaft.
Dusty
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fisher60
Plant City, Florida
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Anything you rent from U-Haul will likely have surge brakes.
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westernrvparkowner
montana
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I didn't even know they made a 71 blazer that wasn't 4 wheel drive. If it is a 4x4 I would unlock the front hubs, put the transfer case into neutral and tow it 4 down. I doubt the warranty would be voided. Stop every few hundred miles and drive it around to relube everything. Disconnecting the drive shaft is also a great idea. Shouldn't be a problem on that rig.
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rehoppe
Denver & Nathrop Colo or somewhere else
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Joined: 01/30/2009
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Wonder WHY they said the Dolly wasn't 'compatabal'? Think I'd look for a 3rd opinion on that. If the tires set too wide put on some with less dish/width. Make sure the dolly has surge brakes, disconnect the drive shaft ( make sure to tape the U-joint), and keep the speed down. You're probably over weight, so be careful.
Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT
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Entropy69
Ohio
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Joined: 06/20/2011
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Thanks all. It is a 4x4 and it's got a manual transmission. I'm not exactly sure why, but the uhaul people (as well as the website) say it is not compatible with their dolly. I'll call tomorrow and see what the specific reason is. I don't have the equipment to tow four down and I doubt I could get it setup this week ( I'm leaving Saturday). Right now I'm planning to just leave it here and come back in a month to drive it down.
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