Another attempt at trying to fix the oven today. I wanted to see if the LP regulator was providing enough pressure. So I called the local propane shops to see if they would measure it for me. Nobody would do it, and they referred me to an RV shop. So I called Camping World, and they will check the pressure but will not work on the propane tank--they said call a propane shop.
Lovely run around. Then one of the propane shops recommended an RV mobile service guy. He said if I could run the water heater, the furnace and the stove flame did not reduce noticeably there was no problem with the pressure. That seemed like an easy test, so I ran them all and the flame seemed just as high with the water heater and furnace on as with them off. Pressure is probably fine.
Now what? I could not get back in touch with the mobile guy. Maybe it is the thermostat? OR maybe the safety I bought was defective? Great. Hope I can contact him tomorrow as he seemed like a helpful fellow.
I may just be talking to myself here (four posts in a row...) but thought I would post some advice that I got from Fiesta Mobile RV services in Phoenix on the phone. No charge!
Here was his test for gas pressure: Turn on a stove flame to high--then turn on the water heater and the furnace. If the flame does not go down, the pressure is fine. The flame stayed high so the pressure seems to be OK.
Here was his test for the thermostat: Turn on the pilot and have the oven heat up as it does the first time. Then disconnect the gas at the thermostat and see if it is sending gas to the safety. Yup, I even lit the gas after I loosened the nut and there was definitely gas going down to the safety. Also there was gas coming into the thermostat and there is a little arrow on the delivery side that shows the direction of the gas, nice, huh?
Actually I can't tell any difference between the safety I removed and the one that I ordered so it occurred to me that someone may have returned their defective one for a refund and darn if I had not ended up with that one???
I ordered from Repairclinic.com and they are going to send me a replacement free of charge and if the new one works, then we can assume that the one I got is just defective. I'm hoping...
* This post was
edited 01/12/12 09:27pm by EMD360 *
HAD the same thing happen to me, brought to be fixed and after them sending for a volve or something it did not work and it was determined that it was the part that has mercury in it and there are none manufactured any longer but I am going to get salvage maybe 'cause we need an oven!
So hope this helps.
Chevy Silverado 2500HD with Duramax engine and Allison transmission
2002 Sunnybrook 34BWTS with lots of goodies
Pullrite Superglide Hitch, Prodigy brake controller
S and S Co-Travelers and along for the ride is Ketzel the wonder cat.
EMD360-we are sure having our share of problems, aren't we? May be time to get a new stove, but you have a lot invested in parts already. We try to use our oven as often as possible to keep it working. Boy, yours is sure clean!
The second safety valve had to be ordered and I just got it last week. This was just in case the first replacement was also defective.
Installed it on Friday and unfortunately the oven has the same problem--lights once and then goes out. This time the burner did not stay lit at all, it went out almost instantly. I let it go for 5 minutes and it surprisingly came back on, but the minute I opened the over door to check, it went out again.
SO, I ordered a stove regulator, another $90. I am throwing parts at it, but I can return the safety valves for the price of postage. Who knew such a simple device could be so tricky to repair?
Yes, nothing but trouble and my stubborn ideas for trying to fix this oven. All this for home baked lasagna? (I WANT a chance to get this oven dirty!)
The replacement valve said it had mercury in it too so I'm pretty sure you can still get one--whether they work or not is in question right now.
Regulator came yesterday and I installed it today. No dice. The burner caught more quickly and burned brighter, stayed lit longer, but it went out once at about 300 degrees and then like before would not relight. So notice it went out before it reached temperature? Now I'm thinking that would mean thermostat!
Let's see, new oven about $365, parts so far, $140. The thermostat costs about $135 with shipping. I was told if the thermostat is releasing gas while it is on, it is OK, and it does. Oven comes on, will not stay on, will not re-light. The RV gods are laughing at me.
* This post was
edited 02/14/12 05:52pm by EMD360 *
Maybe it would be cheaper just to order the Lasagna out!!!
Ain't that the truth? Unbelievable!!!
So to update, the new thermostat came last week (found one for $87 instead of $135) and I finally got it installed today. Had to take apart the whole manifold assembly to bolt it on and now there are all new parts to control the oven.
The Oven came right on! Burned up to temperature--pretty nifty. Of course I got my hopes up.
Then it refused to come back on AGAIN! I think I am defeated for this season. Don't need the oven in the summer. I replaced everything but the stove itself. New safety (twice, thinking the original shipped part could be defective) then new regulator, now new thermostat.
Of course I didn't replace the tank regulator as someone suggested, although the gas seems to have plenty of pressure without any issues and I did the flame test suggested by the mobile RV tech.
What could it be that would make the oven come on once and not again? The pilot looks like it is operating as designed, low flame and high flame and the sensor on the safety gets red hot. No re-light, no matter what I do. DARN!