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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Propane safety shut-off valve

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Starburst2

White Rock, BC, Canada

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Posted: 01/07/12 01:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2010 Georgetown RV model 350 TS. There is an inline shut off valve downstream of the propane regulators. This valve is a small electrically activated solenoid type valve which I presume shuts off the propane in an emergency. The valve that came on the coach crapped out within a year, stopped the flow of propane, and left me scrambling to find a shop that could pinpont the problem and fix it before my refrigerator full of food spoiled.. I had a new valve installed and all seemed well again. Whenever I touch the valve with my hand the valve is hot to the touch. Is this normal? Or, does it indicate that the valve is abnormal and likely to go again at an inopportune time? Would some of you experts step out of your coach and touch the propane safety solenoid valve in the propane bayand tell me if it feels hot?
Thanks for the feedback.
Lloyd

Old-Biscuit

Across the USA

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Posted: 01/07/12 02:01pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Solenoid is hot due to being energized to stay open.......how 'hot'?

Doesn't your fridge run on electric?

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 01/07/12 02:14pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Cold! Maybe slightly above ambient air temperature.
What is the brand of your LP detector? The LP detector supplies power to the solenoid. Your age of the rig it should be a Safe-T-Alert.
Some of old detector solenoids were in series with the detector negative conductor. New ones including the Safe-T-Alert have a separate output.
I would check the connections on the solenoid, trace the negative lead to verify it has a good clean connection.
Check the voltage to the positive side of the solenoid. It should be nearly the same as the battery/converter voltage.


Bud
USAF Retired
Suzuki XL7 pushing Pace Arrow



Starburst2

White Rock, BC, Canada

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Posted: 01/07/12 05:17pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi old biscuit. How hot? Well I can keep my finger on it for a while but it is uncomfortably hot. Not as hot as the exhaust system after driving but hot enough to seem unnatural. My fridge runs on propane and 120 VAC. Not sure why that would affect the temperature of the valve.
Hi enblethen. Your valve is probably cold because your in Moses Lake. Lol.
Yes, it is a Safe-T-Alert. Thanks, I'll check those readings and the negative conectivity. Any idea what the resistance of the coil should be? I should test that as well.
Thanks all for your feedback.
Lloyd

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 01/07/12 05:55pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am guessing around 30 ohms for the resistance of the coil.
Mine is a Advanced Fuel components model 121. They don't tell me much in manual and less on line.
We have been "relatively" warm this winter. Was about 40 degrees today.

Starburst2

White Rock, BC, Canada

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Posted: 01/07/12 08:17pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I did further checks as a result of your feedback. The solenoid valve is indeed too hot to hold. I'd guess cooler than an an electric stove element but not by much. I could leave my finger on it for 1/2 a second before crying "uncle". In other words it is "HOT, HOT". My infrared temp tester reads the temp as 219 degrees. To my way of thinking that is way too hot.
I tested the voltage on one side which I assume is the live feed the voltage measured 13.78 volts when the inverter was reading 14.1 volts. That is a drop of about 0.3 VDC. What was mystifying is that the voltage reading on the other teminal was 0.3 VDC. That is a drop of 13.5 VDC less than entering the coil. That explains why it is so hot. 13.5 VDC of energy is being converted to heat energy. The question is; what do I do to remedy this? Should the other wire lead to a clean ground or what?
Lloyd

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 01/07/12 08:30pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Readings somewhat normal. I would say the coil is suspect and may have an internal short. disconnect the negative side and measure resistance to negative battery. Read voltage on negative side.
I would check for manufacturer on solenoid. Call/email them or call Safe-T-Alert
Safe-T-Alert 800 383-0269

Kirk

Livingston, Texas.

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Posted: 01/07/12 08:35pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The valve is controled by your propane sensor and if it alarms, it also turns off the propane. It is normal for it to be energized all of the time as it closes if power is lost of if an alarm takes place and there is a spring that pushes it closed.


Good travelin! ........Kirk
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Fulltimer for 11 years,
URL: www.adventure.1tree.net


nbounder

Arizona mountains

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Posted: 01/07/12 09:07pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kirk is right on. One further fact- If you have a CCI detector, it will use the full 12VDC to energize (open) the valve, then drop the voltage to approx. 9v, which is all that's needed to hold it open. Obviously your detector is not dropping the voltage to 9 volts or so, and thus the valve is getting way too hot. I suggest looking on E-Bay etc for a CCI detector & valve, or, alternate, remove the valve altogether. You will lose the auto shutoff feature, but most rigs don't have that feature anyhow. Either choice is better than a very hot propane valve


Nbounder
KG7DKF

Starburst2

White Rock, BC, Canada

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Posted: 01/07/12 09:11pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi enblethen
Just so I undersand your suggestion....do I disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the coil and test the resistance from the end of the disconnected wire to the negative terminal of the battery?
Are you suggesting that I check the voltage with the one lead of the voltmeter connected to the negative coil terminal and the other voltmeter lead connected to a known good ground? I'll get more readings tomrrow and post them.
Hi Kirk
I realize that the propane sensor keeps the valve energized to keep it open and that it closes automatically if it alarms or power is lost. What I don't understand is why it is so darned hot. The safety solenoid valve on my previous coach was never much more than the outside ambient air temperature. This has got me baffled. Like enbleten says I begining to think the valve is suspect. Maybe tomorrow in the daylight I can do more testing to see what the voltage and resistance readings are that enblethen refers to.
Lloyd

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