ksg5000
Oregon
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Joined: 06/30/2008
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New rigs don't come with automatic shutoff so you might consider removing yours -- read a few threads were people are removing the plunger inside the solenoid rather than messing around trying to mess with removing the solenoid and finding something to bridge the gap. Just a thought.
Kevin
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Starburst2
White Rock, BC, Canada
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Joined: 05/13/2004
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Hi nbounder.
Can you explain for me what the CCI detector is?
Are you saying that the electrical drop across the coil terminals when activated should only be about 3 VDC which is all that it takes to keep the valve open and that I should measure about 9 volts at the negative terminal of the coil? As I noted the drop in voltage across the two solenoid valve terminals on my coach is 13.5 volts. In other words almost no voltage is passing through the coil.
Your comment about removing the solenoid valve is well taken. I kinda agree that the scorching hot safety valve is likely worse than no valve at all. However is would be nice to have it working properly.
Lloyd
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Starburst2
White Rock, BC, Canada
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Joined: 05/13/2004
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Hi ksg5000
Wow, that is amazing that after all these many years they no longer have an automatic shut-off valve in the event of an emergency. The removal and elimination of the valve presents no physical problem since my coach has a flexible line that connects to the solenoid. Thus there is no need for bridging the gap. Whether there is a safety problem arising from removal of the solenoid valve I will have to check.
Thanks for the feedback.
Lloyd
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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Joined: 01/05/2005
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Yes, disconnect from the coil. It should be a lead coming off coil, if it is a terminal it could be an old style solenoid like CCI used. The CCI solenoid was designed to work in series with the LP detector at a reduced voltage.
Bud
USAF Retired
Suzuki XL7 pushing Pace Arrow
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Starburst2
White Rock, BC, Canada
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Hi enblethen
Had another look at the solenoid valve this morning. It says right on the valve that it is a 9 VDC input made by Goyen. It is getting the full 12+ VDC from the battery. Furthermore I have conducted more research on the internet and folks are cautioned not to use the CCI valve with the Safe-t-alert alarm shut off system since it could result in a fire. Why that jackass put a 9VDC solenoid valve on I'll never know. We are cautioned to take any propane related issues to the professionals. Well it seems they are no brighter, in fact, probably less so, than the average DIY motorhome owner. Is anyone surprsed? It cost me $200 to have it fixed and the technician, through his incompetence has put our lives at risk. This is BS but what can you do but fix it yourself when your 2000 miles away from the jackasses that did the repair. This is not the first time that I have resorted to taking my vehicle to the "professionals" only to scammed by their use of incompetent technicians unbeknownst to yourself. I could accept my own stupidity if I had taken it to an uncertified backyard repair depot but this was a reputable RV dealer with shops across Canada.
Oh well, live and learn.
I still have to take the readings you suggest but it seems like the issue has been identified.
I will let you know what more I find out from MTI Industries when I talk to them Monday.
Thanks everyone for their ideas and feedback.
Lloyd
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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Joined: 01/05/2005
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Don't waste any more time. Get a new solenoid. It needs to be rated 12 -14 volts continuous duty.
9 volt is a CCI series one.
Shouldn't be hard to find in your area. maybe one of the propane dealers.
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nbounder
Arizona mountains
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Joined: 11/26/2006
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X2 on what enblethen said. The only downside, and I'd guess it's only minor, is that the 12V solenoid will draw more current than the 9V unit did. As long as it's on shore power, I guess that's OK. Just beware of the new additional load,
Nbounder
KG7DKF
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Hank MI
Brighton, Michigan
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Joined: 10/18/2010
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Starburst2 wrote:...I tested the voltage on one side which I assume is the live feed the voltage measured 13.78 volts when the inverter was reading 14.1 volts. That is a drop of about 0.3 VDC. What was mystifying is that the voltage reading on the other teminal was 0.3 VDC. That is a drop of 13.5 VDC less than entering the coil. That explains why it is so hot. 13.5 VDC of energy is being converted to heat energy. The question is; what do I do to remedy this? Should the other wire lead to a clean ground or what?
Lloyd
One side of the coil is batt voltage, the other side is essentially ground. So the 0.3 reading is not abnormal. You mention 13.5 VDC of energy. You need to consider amps as well when talking energy. Not saying the valve isn't suspect, just saying the voltage readings you got do not indicate a problem. You need to know how many amps are flowing through it to determine if it's bad. Resistance of the coil compared to a good one will tell you more.
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Tslice
Colorado Springs
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Joined: 03/01/2012
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This is happening to me on my 1992 Fleetwood 32K Class A. The selonoid valve is hot to the touch, obviously only when the motorhome is plugged into shore power. How big of a concern is this? I've talked to a few different repair places and none have seemed to think this is a big deal. The last guy I talked to told me they were supposed to get warm to hot. To me it just scares me. I'm in my MH right now, and don't want to just blow up! I think I am going to have a qualified RV repair person come out tomorrow.
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dougrainer
Carrolton, Texas
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ksg5000 wrote:New rigs don't come with automatic shutoff so you might consider removing yours -- read a few threads were people are removing the plunger inside the solenoid rather than messing around trying to mess with removing the solenoid and finding something to bridge the gap. Just a thought.
Some new rigs DO come with them. They are not as popular as they used to be due to the problems listed on this thread. It is normal for the OP's to be that hot. Doug
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