I would also strongly recommend that you get a really accurate tire gauge (Milton, approx $40)
and an infra-red temperature gauge.
Use the temperature gauge to measure every tire. They should all be close in temperature.
With these you will have the level of accuracy to keep you safe.
What do you consider "close" when using the IR gun?
Good question. It depends on which side is getting more sun and how hot the ambient temperatures are, but I'm not alarmed by a 10 to 15 degree difference from side to side. I'm more concerned with front to back tire temp differentials.
Yes, I know - this part is seat-of-the-pants. Do you have any recommendatons?
I do not recommend using IR guns for any fine tuning of tire load or pressure. If you read my two posts on IR guns on my blog you will see that any consumer grade (i.e. less than multi-thousand dollar) IR gun is not going to provide a sufficiently detailed reading to give acurate data on the hot spot. You will get an average over an area. Heat related failures are based on the hottest location not an average. Also the hottest location in internal to the tire structure not on the surface.
If you see temps approaching 160 or 180 F on a hand held gun you probably have a seriously overloaded or underinflated tire and may have damaged its internal structure to the point of need it replaced.
You can see that in my test the IR gun could not identify the tire that was 14% low.
You can learn more if you visit my tire blog RVTireSafety
In my opinion as a QS9000 and ISO/TS 16949 Quality auditor the word "Quality" does not appear to be in the RV industry dictionary.
rgatijnet1 wrote: Or, you had the coach weighed at one time, and then the load has changed during your last trip. There are so many things that affect the load of your coach that weighing it is ALMOST a waste of time. The weight of the fuel in your tanks, shifts as the fuel is used and can means differences of 400-600 pounds, depending on the size of your fuel tank. If I run with a full fresh water tank, that adds another 500 pounds. Now, as I use that water, it shifts weight from the fresh tank to the waste tanks,, which shifts axle weight. If we are packing for a months long Winter trip, we will carry more and different things than if we are going for a short Summer trip. I have always kept my coach tires at close to the max rated PSI on the sidewall, knowing that the weight of my coach is constantly shifting as I drive down the road and burn fuel.
Right now, the new tires that I put on had a tread depth of 15/32. The current tread depth, after 30,500 miles is 12/32 and there is no uneven tread wear. I'll stick with what I know works. The weight of any coach changes too much for me to be overly concerned about trying to inflate my tires based on a constantly moving target.
The common recommendation to inflate 5 to 10 psi over the recommended pressure should account for all the changes in weight you worry about.
you do not need to go to max pressure and you will get a better ride, better... as others have already stated.
I'm happy with the ride, and thrilled that my tires have only worn 3/32" in over 30,000 miles. Quite frankly, I did play around with tire pressures and I could not tell any significant difference with the ride. Rough roads always gave a rough ride and smooth roads always gave me a smooth ride, regardless of tire pressure. I also use Dynabeads that constantly keep my tires in balance and check my tire pressures each morning before I hit the road. My tires indicate that I am doing something right.
I am glad you are happy with the ride.
But, just because you can not perceive any significant difference does not mean others will not perceive a difference.
Recently my wife took a driving course / test. I made sure the tires were running AT THEIR PROPER inflation's...120 front / 110 rear....and the instructor told my wife he was amazed at how smooth out coach was on the open road.
I used to have Dynabeads and suffered 2 years with them and finally had them removed and the tires balanced properly...and 1) The tires run smoother than they ever did previous...and 2) I dont have to worry about the valve cores getting plugged which always happened to me even using the so called proper cores. I wouldnt have Dynabeads in tires again for any reason...even for free,
2000 Country Coach Allure; Cummins ISC 330 HP; 71/2 - 8 MPG regardless
2002 Jeep Liberty
I run 16 in. tires. Max on the side of the tire says 80lbs, if I were to run that I would end up with the dashboard in my lap and everything on the walls would be on the floor.I run 65/70
GHAAaaa...Nevermind! This is CRAZY...I no longer CARE !!! Mine say Max.110 PSI on the sidewall...I run em at 100...been doin this since 1971...Ghaaa...U all make me CRAZY!!!
Joe&Charlotte, Nat'l SurfSide DE34D Ford 362HP 5speed
Rusty, Rosie, Snuffy Dogs
Leroy's a Conure
If a 'Little' is good, 'Alot' ain't better.
Why use real-time monitoring of tire pressure like those lunatics who go as far as having gauges for oil pressure, coolant temperature and even fuel level? Such heretics. Just follow the number that some lawyer had printed on the side of the coach or tire sidewall. Forget that manufacturers universally recommend you weigh your coach and then follow the tire vendor's pressure charts that are published expressly for this purpose. Ignore the fact that lower tire pressure means a smoother ride and better handling. Instead pay for new shocks and other suspension modifications that rarely seem to work.
Don't try blinding me with science. I don't care that tires warm up, causing moisture-infused pressure to increase. The fact that 110 cold psi routinely becomes 130 psi on a hot day is not a problem. I am certain of this because I don't know what my tire pressure is once I start moving. I simply don't need that kind of distraction.
Yep. It makes me crazy too.
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Happy Ford F-53 Class A Owner (2008 Gulf Stream)
2010 Ford Fusion Toad (with 6 speed manual transmission - the only way to tow)
Brake Buddy Vantage, Blue Ox Aladdin Tow Bar,
TST RV 507 TPMS, Power Master Voltage Controller
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