Just want to send a word of encouragement your way! What a wonderful job you are doing, not just with the actual rebuild, but with the great photos showing all the steps so clearly. We all appreciate the large amount time you are putting into keeping us up to date! Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the motivation. I find that I like the fixit threads that have the visual steps in them, makes it easier for me to visualize the whole process. I'm just a beginner at this so let me know if I can impove in some way.
I've been working on the small countertop that will be next to the bunks, directly across from the kitchen countertop and stove. Since the amount of countertop space is so limited, I thought having a second area for food prep and such would be a good idea.
My BIL had two pieces of premade countertop that he wanted to get rid of and I was happy to take them off his hands. These edge glued panels are from Brazil and are similar to Yellow Pine but the grain is a bit tighter. After seeing UPbuilder's results with his pine board countertop, I thought I might get a similar result.
The first countertop I edge-banded with pieces of Walnut I had in stock. This top has been cut down from it's original 2' x 4' size to 18" x 44". It seemed to fit the space better in this size. Here it is with the first coat of finish drying:
Some more pictues of the countertop on it's stand (I didn't need to get that window any lower, did I ):
One end has three aluminum tubes and a piece of loose weave material, the material I thought was a wall covering but have found out it is for lawn furniture. The three tubes offer some protection for the material and it wasn't hard to do it, the pieces on the bottom and top that hold the tubes are remnants of a deck removal I did so the wood is predrilled for the tubes.
The other end of the counter stand has a map pocket/magazine rack built in. This ended up to be one of those circumstantial add-ons, just mount paneling inside the stand, instead of on the outside:
The interior paneling of the map pocket:
I have the countertop back in the shop for additional coats of finish and will be scratching my noggin for how I'm going to treat the inside of the counter. I may put a long, shallow drawer and a shelf in there or divide the space with just a shelf and some dividers.
* This post was
edited 03/26/12 01:32pm by westend *
Holy cow West that looks awesome! The edging really adds a whole new dimension to it, very nice accent. Well done! I don't think I have the patience to get that detailed.
Thanks, you'd probably understand this more than most, UP: My BIL told me I couldn't do it (the edgebanding). Whenever someone tells me I can't do something, the problem solving part of my brain, along with the stubbornal cortex and cerebral pride section all get inflamed and working overtime. The issue, according to the BIL, was that the grains of the wood are opposed so any attempts for a lasting bond using adhesives will fail. What he forgot to think about was the strength of the bond when supported by cleats from the inside, fastened into the countertop. Even if the adhesive bond fails, the top piece is nailed into the cleats. One stubborn, sometimes-a-carpenter's solution to the edgebanding.
I really ought to listen to the BIL, though. He is one fantastic furniture builder and woodworker. He is working on a computer desk that is comprised of a slab of spalted maple for the top and two walnut plank-legs. All of this is on crazy angles and is through dovetailed. He also has an inset butterfly in the top to join parts of the slab. Maybe I'll try to get a picture of it when I'm serving him the crow dinner.
Ok, sorry about the interuption of building posts, my life sometimes gets in the way of my fun.
I liked the countertop that I had made so much that I built a matching backsplash for it:
Does anybody besides me like these burlap coffee bag curtains? This is just temporarily fixed to get an idea of how they would look.
Today, I have been working on the location where the heater will reside. I installed 1/2" cement board around the heater and will be installing some tile, later today.
I know the heater looks bad but it is totally tested and functional, I'll get it spruced up before it's eventual attachment.
The frame adjacent to the heater has 2" polystyrene insulation inside as a refrigerator will be residing close by. This frame is one of the drivers side countertop supports, the side with the sink and stove.
I am off to the lumber yard to return a previously purchased countertop and pick up some tile and supplies.
That heater is going to keep you nice and toasty, especially with all the insulation you put in, and like mine no electric needed. Does it have a dial thermostat on the gas valve? That's what mine has and it's the only drawback, a very minor one at that.
Allright, a vote for burlap! I scrounged about 30 of these coffee sacks so I have a lot of burlap. To me, it's as good or better than any store-bought material and, if a drink gets all over it or spaghetti sauce, just use it for grease rags and put another one up, lol.
This heater has a bog standard thermocouple and pilot light, also a petcock to adjust the flame, no thermostat. It's kind of up to the user to determine if the heater needs to be turned up. When we used it up at deer camp (in a TT), we would turn it up in the early evening, probably also operate the stove for dinner, and when it came time for lights-out, turn it down till barely on or just run the pilot until morning. It depended on outside temps and if it was -10 and windy (saw that weather a bit) it would be on low through the night. I can only think of a couple times when someone got up and turned the valve to increaase heat. I think it's rated at 20K BTU. Like you say, UP, the good news is -----no electricity needed.
BTW, UP, picked up one of those edge-glued pine panels for the sink countertop. I can't thank you enough for posting pics of that and allowing me to steal your idea. I returned the Formica top I had picked out in favor of the wood top. It just seems to fit the decor better, lol. And if Repo is reading.....yes, of course it will be edge-banded.
Thought I would use this quarry tile around the heater, good old made in the USA and very durable: