It's kind of rainy and cold up here in MN, today, so I am working on things inside the shop. I thought I'd post up another "How-to" deal and this has to do with the edge-glued board panels that UPbuilder introduced us to and make for nice, inexpensive countertops.
I bought a 6 ft. edgeglued panel at my local big-box store, Menards. I went through the stack and selected one that was fairly straight and had the least knots. I decided to apply a piece of 1/4" fir plywood to the underside of the panel to keep it straight and to offer some more rigidity. To do this, I applied thinned wood glue and brad nailed the plywood onto the countertop. The next day when I looked at the panel, I noticed it had started to cup in the middle, probably as a result of my gluing efforts and the grain of the edgeglued boards in the middle. What to do?
And here's the "how-to"---I used my router to cut a dovetailed dado into the under side of the panel after I had clamped the panel very securely with large steel angle iron to bring it back to straightness.
The dado was easily cut using a clamping straightedge and the router set to the depth of the spline I was going to insert. Three passes with the router and the dados were done.
To cut the spline, I removed the router from the fixed base and mounted the motor with the same bit into my router table, adjusted the height and amount of cut and ran two pieces of 1/2" plywood through the bit.
I could have cut the spline using just the router and the fixed base but the router table is easier for small pieces. Here is the spline being test fitted into the dado:
There's no guarantees that that the panel will remain straight, lumber always likes to try and become a tree again, but this method should help keep all the boards in alignment. The finished splines:
* This post was
edited 04/07/12 06:22pm by westend *
I've been working on the driver's side counter area, getting everything framed up to support the countertop and drop=in stove. I made three 2'x2" frames of cedar and installed two on top of a 1" plywood cover over the water heater and the other inboard of the converter/load center area. I wanted access to the converter/battery so the 1/4" panel covering that is removable.
While I was enclosing the waterheater, I threw in some extra insulation. It can't hurt anything:
Test fit of the countertop:
From this picture, you can see that I'll have to cut the 6' piece of countertop and add in two small pieces to support the stove/oven. Lots of little dinensions to keep in order so everything fits when done:
I'm also working on the venthood cabinet that will house a small microwave and the swingarm mount for the flat screen. I'll probably build a cabinet that is over sized to what's needed just because I want to install the cabinet into a few studs and ceiling joists.
Another "rain day", today, so that means some more time for the Hilton and another "Howtodoit" post.
Edgebanding counter tops--If a reader has been following some of the DIY restorations like UPbuilder's or Hilandfrog's, or this one, you'll see that we are following UPbuilder's lead by installing edgeglued pine countertops and some of these are getting an edgeband around the perimeter. I thought I'd post up how I do it.
I chose to use some wood that I had in my stacks of lumber in the yard. The first countertop I edgebanded with walnut but that stock is depleted so I started the next countertop edgebanding using what is called "Tigerwood", that is mostly a generic name for a South American hardwood that has very dense grain and is weatherproof. It is commonly used for decks, porches, and other exterior uses.
Here is a small piece that has been wiped with mineral spirits to show a representative color:
Any type of wood can be used for edgebanding and the big-box stores carry many species of precut pieces. I ripped the pieces I was going to use on a table saw. The depth is 3/4" and the height is 1 3/4".
After cutting the pieces to length and cutting a 45 on the two mating ends (not necessary but I was getting a lot of heat from the BIL about this), I glued and clamped the Tigerwoood onto the edge of the countertop:
In order to help position the edge band, I used a bradnailer to pin a couple of locations together, the tool:
Here is the short edge clamped and glued (it helps to have a lot of clamps):
A word about glue for this; Thou shalt use no other glue except Titebond III.
Confession: I have actually backslid on this commandment by using some Garret-Wade "ultimate wood glue". The Garret-Wade glue is also an alphatic resin glue and is indistinguishable from Titebond III in performance, appearance, and application. It may have more solids but it is splitting hairs between the two. Titebond III is waterproof and has the highest bond strength of any wood glue.
Edit:
OK,added in the stove-end pieces and edgebanded those, too. Next step in the edgebanding process is machining. I used a handheld router and a 3/8" roundover bit:
I then hit everything with an RO sander:
I'm using Minwax Spar varnish on the counter tops:
I think the Tigerwood contrasts nicely with the Pine:
* This post was
edited 04/13/12 10:55pm by westend *
Man that's some nice work West! Those details make all the difference and that rig's going to look great when you're done. That edge banding you're doing is pure class all the way. You've gotta be itchen to spend a night or two in it by now hey.
Btw, I see what you did there, smart. I was worried about my counter cracking around the stove, but I kept it all one piece, and glued and screwed it down. So far so good, but your way will most likely stand the test of time better.
Btw, I see what you did there, smart. I was worried about my counter cracking around the stove, but I kept it all one piece, and glued and screwed it down. So far so good, but your way will most likely stand the test of time better.
The back board that supports the stove back rail (the ugly one that I am now calling "a piece of the very table from Deadwood that Wild Bill sat at") is doweled and screwed into the larger part of the countertop. There is a full ledger that runs under the back edge of the countertop.
Here is the stove in place:
View from the end of the countertop:
I'm working on the matching backsplash, ATM. I have two coats of finish on it and will be adding a few more. Last night, I restored the stainless kitchen sink, new seals and o-rings in the valves, new basket strainers, etc.. I couldn't find a new sink that was any better than the original so thought it was worth the effort. The cutout for that will be coming soon.
And, Yup, I wish the Hilton was ready for the road, won't be that much longer...
* This post was
edited 04/15/12 09:55pm by westend *
pasusan wrote: Looking great! Wish you were near - would love to have you teach me to use a router. Also - glad to hear I use the best glue...
Question for you - how did you clean up the inside of the sink? Mine's a bit scratched and Barkeepers Friend didn't make it as purty as yours looks!
Thanks!If you need to know anything about the router and it's use, the Router Forums is the place to visit. Great group of guys and there are a few that know just about everything there is to know about routers. I'd be happy to try an answer, if you have any questions.
The sink had a few scratches and was very dirty. I cleaned it and then used rubbing compound to get the stains and small scratches out. Final step was applying stainless steel cleaner. The cleaner has a polish in it to provide a barrier for future use.
* This post was
edited 04/16/12 07:55am by westend *
I wasn't smart enough to use separate pieces of wood around my stove
Times like this it becomes apparent that I'm good at following directions.... I'll know better for "next time"
While I did use different wood and some stain I didn't use different stain on the 2 woods, also used polyurethane but not one as shiny as yours.
3 coats with sanding and mineral spirit wipe downs between.
I can't tell by your pics, did you leave a lip UP on the top of the counters?
I did, figured the extra 3/8ths" being left UP, would stop things from sliding off and if not it will tip them over for bigger more spectacular spills.
I'm working on lighting and filling all the staple holes w/ wood putty, and the cracks along cabinets w/ flexible stuffs in a tube.
So close, yet not there, YET.
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