tim and amy wrote: snip...
Towing to the coast I felt a lot of pull "back" from the trailer. Meaning in the dips the truck felt like it was being pulled backards on the rise.
Suspect that 'pulling back' is something most all users of this system
will encounter
As that is the way it works...you are pulling the trailer via the chain
and bushings.
The coupler 'front' does NOT contact the ball. So when you accelerate
the system compresses the bushing to have the ball leave contact of
the coupler latch (behind).
When the trailer 'catches up', the ball will be pulled 'back' into the
latch
Suggest you folks keep anything to do with this Anderson system on
the original thread. Otherwise, there will be many, many separate
threads to have it disassociated with the original. Okay if it has
been on the market a loooooooong time, but since fairly new, think
it would benefit all if consolidated on one thread.
Here is the original thread and the diagram that might help you understand
that 'back' feeling...if you haven't already read that thread. Will
also post this thread over there trying to keep the continuity
BenK wrote: This is a quick and dirty vector diagram of how I see it working
Even if there is NOT slop (tolerance) in the coupler to ball...there will be over
time.
Then the wear of the friction material will allow the tapered shank to tilt
back and forth over time.
So in pulling the chain, it pushes the tongue against the ball via
where I say the pawl is. That then creates the same lever arm most
all other WD systems look like.
Then the TV pulls and the ball wants to go towards the coupler front
(away from the pawl). Then does the ball bang back and forth inside
the coupler?
{edit}...ops...put the bushing on the wrong side of the tongue bracket, but
think you guys know what I meant.
It is really difficult to see how it truly works without detailed
cross section diagrams or exploded assembly diagram
Go Brady !!!...home town kid just up the street from me
I will post here for the simple fact that the above cut and paste information is taken out of context.
1. Pull back feeling. Even though I had my TV/TT on what I thought was level ground during set up, it was not. After towing to the coast and parking at the RV spot which was very level it was apparent my ball was 2" too low. This was causing the rear axle of the trailer to unload which was visually found when viewing the trailer fenders.
Correcting the ball height eliminated the pull back issue completely.
2. After reading and reviewing several posts, I am finding that I most likely do not have enough tension on the chains at this point, but I am with in range.
The excursion is a capable tow vehicle, but I have never had a vehicle that was such a pain to deal with. I do not believe it is the hitch but the entire set up as a whole.
Also, base on my measurements I am outside the range of front wheel height. Once I dial this in on Sunday I will supply better data.
Please understand that the other thread is based on the fact that mrad and I not only the have the same TV but nearly identical trailers by size and weight requirements. That posting is to help both of us to understand how to set our vehicles up specifically and not argue symantics of Andersens' design or peoples opinions of said design.
I didn't want to post in this topic because I don't want to be part of a discussion that I don't agree with.
2012 Kodiak 300BHSL Ultimate with Fall Edition Package
2003 Ford Excursion V10
tim and amy wrote: I will post here for the simple fact that the above cut and paste information is taken out of context.
1. Pull back feeling. Even though I had my TV/TT on what I thought was level ground during set up, it was not. After towing to the coast and parking at the RV spot which was very level it was apparent my ball was 2" too low. This was causing the rear axle of the trailer to unload which was visually found when viewing the trailer fenders.
Correcting the ball height eliminated the pull back issue completely.
This is a new metric and will have to noodle this some more.
As the orientation of the tongue/ball/TV would seem not as important
for this WD system than traditional WD systems.
The orientation of the tongue should continue to matter in how the
trailer follows the TV though
In a traditional WD setup, level to slightly point down is good/best
and if pointing high, sway is more likely. Again, new metrics for this
new WD system that will need some more noodling
2. After reading and reviewing several posts, I am finding that I most likely do not have enough tension on the chains at this point, but I am with in range.
This is the WD forces...the bushing tension is the same as
the head tilt and number of links on the bars of a traditional WD system
The excursion is a capable tow vehicle, but I have never had a vehicle that was such a pain to deal with. I do not believe it is the hitch but the entire set up as a whole.
Also, base on my measurements I am outside the range of front wheel height. Once I dial this in on Sunday I will supply better data.
Please understand that the other thread is based on the fact that mrad and I not only the have the same TV but nearly identical trailers by size and weight requirements. That posting is to help both of us to understand how to set our vehicles up specifically and not argue symantics of Andersens' design or peoples opinions of said design.
I didn't want to post in this topic because I don't want to be part of a discussion that I don't agree with.
Here is my last post over at the other thread to keep continuity on
this one
BenK wrote: Hope this helps folks visualize what is going on with this Andersen WD Hitch system
When towing, the TV does NOT pull via the ball, but via the ball's
shank bottom where that plate is attached.
Then that plate pulls via the chain against the plastic bushing (spring)
That then pulls the ball away from the coupler latch and then the ball
'might' contact the coupler front end...to then pull the trailer
once the trailer has caught up and matches the TV's speed, the bushing
will pull the ball back away from the coupler front and back into the
coupler latch.
daystrom wrote: What was your reason to change to the Andersen from the Equalizer?
My Equalizer was a 1,000/10,000 lb hitch. My new TT has a tongue weight in excess of 1,000lbs. My dealer thought I was close enough that I could keep the equalizer (even though I was ready to give him $700 last year to install a reese dual cam).
I wasn't comfortable with being up to 200 lbs over the rated weight.
A 1,400/14,000 equalizer would have been about $50 more than the Andersen which really wasn't an issue, however the Andersen is about 80 lbs lighter and appeared to be easier to set up.
After using it, I can tell you from experience it is much easier to install, adjust, and unhook.
After using both the Equalizer and Andersen and only considering the tow quality / anti-sway control, which is the better hitch?
Daystrom,
I don't know if I can give a fair comparison at this time. I had over 2,000 miles with the Equalizer and my new TT. It performed well. At this time I have about 140 miles with the Andersen in pretty much ideal conditions (minimal wind). With that said, it has performed as well as my Equalizer. I am waiting for a windy day to take it out on the freeway.
I am hoping it performs as well as the EQ because it is much easier to unhook and easier to adjust.
Sorry I can't give a better opinion. Next trip is in two weeks.
Well I'm eating crow on this one. I can't seem to get this hitch system adjusted to save my life. Luckily it has been slightly windy here, wind is only at 16mph currently. Just made a loop at 45-50 mph. The excursion was getting blown around quite a bit. I'm throwing in the towel on this hitch system. I hope mrad has better luck than I for the same setup. Not worth a white knuckle drive in my opinion.
I think this system might be a good setup for someone that doesn't own a ford excursion.
I'm off to camping world for a WD and sway system.
I'm off to camping world for a WD and sway system.
Reese Dual Cam!
Seriously though. My weekend warrior (14k typical, up to 18k fully loaded) towed just as good using the Reese Dual cam, as it did with the Hensley which broke and I replaced with the Reese.
Bryan
2000 Ford E350 DRW Wagon (14-pass all captains chairs)
V10 w/ Banks PowerPack, Diablo Predator, 4.56 LS, ~350,000 miles
New Desert Fox in the works!
tim and amy wrote: Well I'm eating crow on this one. I can't seem to get this hitch system adjusted to save my life. Luckily it has been slightly windy here, wind is only at 16mph currently. Just made a loop at 45-50 mph. The excursion was getting blown around quite a bit. I'm throwing in the towel on this hitch system. I hope mrad has better luck than I for the same setup. Not worth a white knuckle drive in my opinion.
I think this system might be a good setup for someone that doesn't own a ford excursion.
I'm off to camping world for a WD and sway system.
Sorry to hear this. I hope it doesn't bode poorly for me. I get the replacement brackets today. (ordered the wrong size initially). I'll have a better than good idea how my Andersen works after Memorial Day Weekend.
We have to go to Orlando, and we're pulling the TT. While I'll not have to contend with any mountains, there will be lots of 18 wheelers to deal with.
I do have a longer wheel base TV. F150 w/ 6.5 ft box, 144.5" WB. Also the TT is just 5500# GVWR.
We'll see how it goes.
Erroll, Mary, Duffy the Badger Dog plus "Ollie"
2009 HiLo Towlite 2209T
2005 F150 Supercab 4x4, w/ 5.4L
Atlee wrote: snip...
Sorry to hear this. I hope it doesn't bode poorly for me. I get the replacement brackets today. (ordered the wrong size initially). I'll have a better than good idea how my Andersen works after Memorial Day Weekend.
We have to go to Orlando, and we're pulling the TT. While I'll not have to contend with any mountains, there will be lots of 18 wheelers to deal with.
I do have a longer wheel base TV. F150 w/ 6.5 ft box, 144.5" WB. Also the TT is just 5500# GVWR.
We'll see how it goes.
Are you the one who had those Andersen TT Tongue brackets slide posted
on one of the other Andersen System threads?
If so, note that when those brackets slide, they reduce or even lose
all of the plastic bushing (spring) force, which then reduce the amount
of WD forces on the Ball/Shank
There are two set screws that needs to gouge into the TT's tongue
member (Channel or square tube).
They then become the holding mechanism for the Andersen system to
do it's WD forces. The also become pivot points that has those brackets
pivot on to wedge themselves into the TT's tongue member.
Now that I've written this and thought a bit more....you folks with
this WD system should re-check those two set screws (bolts with pointed
ends that gouge themselves into the TT's tongue) often till the stop
loosening. Also, now thinking about it, re-paint that contact area
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