Has anyone here removed the panel in front of the dump valves to upgrade the insulation in the compartment? I've removed the outdoor shower and now want to remove the panel holding the water tank drain valves. Any hints?
John & Harriet on the beautiful Eastern Shore of Maryland
2008 F450 4X4 Crew Cab
2008 Lance 1191
When you take the lower tin off you have to drill the rivets for the fresh and hot water tank drains valves.
I actually left it off easier to access the shore cord
I got rid of the outside shower and made a quick connect that attached to a longer hose.
I am presently doing a mod to the whole compartment changing the black and grey valve position adding a couple ultra heat pipe heaters.
Plus allot more insulation Cutting the shore cord shorter and then using a separate one to hook up to that
That area is one of the biggest for heat loss
another area for heat loss is, when you look in from the side entrance you see a grill on the floor below the book rack open that look in I found the whole bottom under the shower had no insulation another major heat loss area.
this is were I am at so far....Nothing much but it shows what it looks like behind there
Hey Dave - I hope you are taking lots of pictures as you go! The newer 1131/1191 you have is laid out differently than my older one and is actually an improvment on mine. You do have more space and better access.
Doneitall - what year is your camper? (duh - your sig has it, sorry)
For reference here is mine:
Without a doubt I will be cutting that white sheet metal and mounting the water system valves differently. I have disabled the shower so I don't have to winterize them, but the shower valves behind the upper sheet metal is above a thick flooring section. I would have to drill out the rivets and/or cut a big access hole to get into that area, which is under the toilet as well as above the genny/under the shower pan. It MIGHT be better to get to the floor under the shwoer pan by just removing the genny...... But I see no reason you couldn't drill out those rivets around the shower cutoff valves to get a look in there and see first.
Hi: Thanks for the pictures, I also will be in the search and fix in the basement and dump valve compartment area as soon as it warms up. Mine appears to be the same as DAVE1131.
Mike
Good thread and I agree, the valves could be done differently and the area needs additional heat for winter use. I have a shop light installed to provide heat and a remote thermometer with the base unit in the camper, to monitor the temperatures in this area.
Over a year ago, I cut off my shore power cord and put in a connector, to keep from needing to feed the cord in and out of that cramped location. The cord gets soooo stiff in cold temperatures. I also bought an Oatey Mechanical Test Plug to place in the access hole to keep cold temperatures out, at Lowes.
I have mentioned it before, but these campers have lots of places that leak heat and allow wind into them. A year ago, indirectly, I found a way to ferret out these spots. By using a trouble light, stuck in the sink area, cabinets and behind drawers, as the light identifies these voids and heat leakage. Simply standing outside of the camper, identifies these locations. I just used spray paint, to mark the locations of these leaks, to address later, during daylight hours.
Hi: The plug upgrade is on my list for sure. The way they did it is just a great place for mice to run up and into the camper. I can't believe the cord is not in a sealed cord box like my other lances.
Mike
I agree with that cord it should be long enough to plug into the genny outlet and another cord could be stored somewhere else.I had the same thing with my 1181 its a pain to drag it out that hole then force it back in.
Gary3 wrote: I agree with that cord it should be long enough to plug into the genny outlet and another cord could be stored somewhere else.I had the same thing with my 1181 its a pain to drag it out that hole then force it back in.
Did it and love it
I actually changed the cord completely I have a hard wired 3ft piece that plugs in the Gen junction box or to my shore power, it is the same material as my extension cord cord I have the neon color
The cord material is very flexible and stays flexible below freezing.
I stow the 50 ft 30 amp extension cord in the slide out storage compartment.
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