Doing the simple math with the info you provided looks like this:
11,800 GCWR - 6,500 MTWR = 5,300 lbs that your Sequoia can weigh and
still stay within the OEM's GCWR rating
As Les has advised, best to go out and weigh everything axle by axle
both empty and fully loaded. That is the only way to know where you
are in reference to the ratings.
Then decide whether you believe in 'ratings' or not. If not, then academic
and just do whatever you wish.
If yes, the follow them along with knowing where you are in reference
to them.
Many will say you are 'good for it', 'have been doing it for decades
with no problems', etc etc... Okay if that is what you will base your
decision on (risk management decision), but note that the only person
responsible for the set up is the driver. Makes no matter how many
copies of 'sure you can', etc you have with you.
Also know that the ratings are for warranty by the OEM, to meet Federal
mandated laws and performance of the setup. Being over weight won't
have the wheels instantly fall off, but they will sooner. Performance
will also be reduced. Performance to me and most of the performance
automotive magazines I subscribe to has: 0-60MPH, slalom speed, braking
distance, quarter mile time, MPG, etc.
Here is a diagram that helps with the PMs from folks asking about
how this all works
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
Oh....the Coast Guard just changed their definition of the 'average' person
from 150lbs to 185lbs, so am assuming automotive OEMs will also be changing
the way they list the 'curb' weight...
Doing the simple math with the info you provided looks like this:
11,800 GCWR - 6,500 MTWR = 5,300 lbs that your Sequoia can weigh and
still stay within the OEM's GCWR rating
This is assuming I overload the Koala which is rated at max 5940. Dry weight is roughly 4100, won't know exact until my unit is built and weighed at the plant. Assuming I pack it full of 1000 pounds of stuff and food which is unlikely as we don't even plan on towing it with the tanks full (and all are gear from our old motorhome is currently sitting on my pool table)that takes it to say 5100. Well call it 5500 in case my unit is freakishly heavier, so...
11800-5500=6300
We'll say my Sequoia'a actual weight is 5400 with car seats and misc. junk
6300-5400=900 lbs for a family of 4. If anyone in my family (two of whom are toddlers)starts to exceed their portion of that, I'll just put them on a diet ASAP.
I do realize the only way to REALLY know is to go weigh them. All these numbers can really make a newbie's head spin.
Now I'm cross eyed from looking at WD hitches and sway bars and combinations of the two! Still kind of confused about tongue weight % also.
* This post was
edited 01/19/12 02:58pm by Mommame *
I don't know if it would be better to start a new thread, but I talked to the dealer we are buying through and he said he would install a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller and the WD hitch and sway are Curt (separate items). I asked him about an Equalizer and he said he could do that also. Are there benefits of a separate hitch and sway over a combination or the other way around? He seemed like he didn't really have a preference, just that is what they generally did. ?
WDH's like the Equal-i-zer, are superior to the cheaper WDH's, like the Curt, which has a friction anti-sway bar.
the Equal-i-zer and others like it, have built-in sway control. it has 4-way sway control and is made in America.
the cheaper ones with the friction sway bar, have to have it unhooked to back up, whereas this isn't necessary with the Equal-i-zer.
Dan- Firefighter, Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur, Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever(RIP), 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche LS, 2007 Rockwood Roo 23SS w/Equalizer and Prodigy, and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes
We have the same TT and actualy towed it with a Tacoma (maxed out on payload) for a few trips before upgrading.
The Sequioia should certainly be able to handle the weight. The biggest limiting factor is the tounge weight or the weight the trailer subtracts from the vehicles payload. Second would be the wheelbase of your Sequioa vs. the lenght of the TT.
Toyota limits you to 650 lbs tounge weight and for some reason doesn't identify a higher number as other manufacturers do when using a weight distributing hitch. My measured tounge weight (including the weight of the hitch equipment is right at 800 lbs.
As for sway control, I would go with or push for something a bit better as a little insurance against the shorter wheelbase. We have the dual-cam setup and it is so easy to work with.
BTW or dry delevery weight was 4260 IIRC.
We really like the Koala and this particular floorplan.
2012 Koala 25DS
2011 F150 Ecoboost SuperCrew with Max Tow Package
Thanks so much everyone for the replies, I really appreciate it.
"Toyota limits you to 650 lbs tounge weight and for some reason doesn't identify a higher number as other manufacturers do when using a weight distributing hitch. My measured tounge weight (including the weight of the hitch equipment is right at 800 lbs."
This is pretty much what I am most concerned about at the moment, I think we will squeak by on the payload, but I'm not sure how this weight works out with the WDH. Does it relieve some of that pressure off the rear of the TV so that this would be offset?
We have to wait for our trailer to be built, but at least it gives us time to look into all of this rather than just taking the standard things offered. I think we will upgrade to the equalizer. Would you do the 600/6000 or 1000/10000? I'm thinking the 10000?
Agree with Bikendan regarding hitches... The Equal-i-zer will be a lot easier for you to install and hook up... The friction sway bar, or bars if your using two, can be a little tricky to set up properly...
Your better off with the Equal-i-zer - I would go that route...
Standard Tekonsha Prodigy will work well, but the Tekonsha P2 or P3 are more recent models with some enhancements...
Les
* This post was
edited 01/20/12 07:09am by LAdams *
2000 Ford F-250SD, XLT, 4X4 Off Road, SuperCab
w/ 6.8L (415 C.I.) V-10/3:73LS/4R100
Banks Power Pack w/Trans Command & OttoMind
Sold Trailer - not RV'ing at this point in time
Your sure to be over the #600 tongue weight as the Koala's empty TW is already that, so looks like you'll have to go with the #1000/10,000 hitch configuration...
You said the Sequoia's maximum tongue weight capacity is 620lbs.
The DRY, EMPTY, UN-OPTIONED trailer has a tongue weight of 600lbs.
Odds are it will grow to about 750lbs or so.
750>620 = no go
I don't know where you got the 9-11% figure but it is incorrect. MINIMUM recommended tongue weight is generally accepted to be 10-15%. Typically, the weight is 12-13% of the actual weight of the trailer.
2002 Chevy 3500 DRW 8.1L/Allison
2000 Palomino B1500
...and the reason why I need a DRW to haul a Palomino:
2004 United 7x14 tandem axle enclosed toy trailer
2011 PJ 8x20 7-ton deckover equipment trailer
Offline
, Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur
, Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever(RIP
), 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche LS, 2007 Rockwood Roo 23SS w/Equalizer and Prodigy, and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes
