You said the Sequoia's maximum tongue weight capacity is 620lbs.
The DRY, EMPTY, UN-OPTIONED trailer has a tongue weight of 600lbs.
Odds are it will grow to about 750lbs or so.
750>620 = no go
I don't know where you got the 9-11% figure but it is incorrect. MINIMUM recommended tongue weight is generally accepted to be 10-15%. Typically, the weight is 12-13% of the actual weight of the trailer."
That is why I was concerned . The 9-11% came from the Sequoia's owner's manual. I was asking if a weight distribution hitch changed the limit of 620 at all but I can't seem to find anything on it.
That is the kind of thinking and your are on track
Just remember that these ratings and going up to or over won't have the wheels
fall off instantly...just sooner and performance will be reduced (safety too,
but find that I'm in the minority in that regard here)
I do not say "you can" or "you can't", as I am very conservative for
'me'. Just supply advice on the various metrics and some advice on
how things work or not in concert. It is a system and too many only
look at one component, so it is out of context
Some other advice is to go with a P3 brake controller. I have one and love it.
Lost on so many is that with the P3, you can adjust it and if you have the mind/talent
to, adjust the brake pedal so that just by touching the brake pedal will initiate
the trailer brakes BEFORE the Sequoia's brakes ever start to brake
Of major importance is the orientation of the setup. The TV should return the
front to it's non-hooked up (before hooking up and WD) or as near as possible.
The trailer should be level at it's highest pointing and I like it pointed slightly
The trailer tongue should be in the 13% range and I like it a bit higher.
Trailer tires are rated for a MAXIMUM of 65MPH, if they are 'ST' class
Learn to adjust your trailer brakes yourself. As I re-adjust mine through out
any long trip. This keeps the trailer braking leading the TV (brakes before the
If an automatic transmission, read the manual and most normally say to engage
the tow/haul button. If yours does not have one, then keep it out of over drive
on inclines and head winds.
SUV's are sprung for 'ride quality' and most will sag on the rear end when towing
heavy (for it's ratings). Helper springs only level it out and do NOT increase
Air up the tires to their max rating when towing. Especially the TV's rear tires
Like what you have posted and think you are right on track
Good luck !
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...