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Camper8251

Skagit Valley, WA

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Posted: 01/27/12 06:57pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I replaced some of the lines in my camper to dampen the knocking from the pump. I just went to the plumbing department and got some flexible lines that were for kitchen sinks. The worked great


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tri5ron

Orange County Ca. USA

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Posted: 01/27/12 07:02pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

here's some pics of the original tubing that is giving me such a hard time. I was hoping to avoid replumbing the entire system, but it now would seem to be the best choice. (thanks Joe)

If you look behind the black sink drain, you can see a peice of the vinyl tubing I used for the first attempt at repairing the original leak I had found.
This is the stuff I was asking about.
It is pretty thick walled, 3/4 o.d x 1/2 i.d.



here's a close up of the original stuff...



tri5ron

Orange County Ca. USA

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Posted: 01/28/12 07:59am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

heading to Home Depot today to check out the PEX. wil just go ahead and replace all the existing old stuff.
Thanks for all the help.
Ron

JoeChiOhki

Sauvie Island, OR

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Posted: 01/28/12 03:02pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

FreeLanceing wrote:

Thats quest, they used that in rv's and mobile homes early 80s untill I am not sure. It gets brittle. Might be ok in a house but going down the road not so good. You get 20-30 year life thats not too bad these days. I get my pex from a plumbing supply center. Its red for hot blue for cold. I just redid an entire house 1 bath, kitchen less than 200 materials. Crimp fittings are better, thats all the pro's use. Sharkbite are OK for homeowner use. As a builder I try to go with the better stuff. That plastic stuff is fine, I think its rated for 200lbs. If you use that in the entire system your water may taste a little funky for a few years. Smell it. They used to use that for sink/toilet to shut off conections. Now its mostly braided stainless. If it were mine I would just run it and bring along a repair kit. A few elbows,tee's, straights, some tube clamps etc. If it really becomes an issue then tackle the whole mess. If you are not all that handy, I would bet a slow plumber would do the entire system for a couple hundred and a case of diet Dr pepper or whatever.


My folks rig has pex and clamped fittings throughout, every year there's another one that needs fixing, so I'm not too big a fan of clamp/crimped connections.

The Sharkbites have the added advantage of if you ever need to disassemble the pipes for any reason you can simply pop them back apart without needing to cut or struggle to pull the crimped ends loose.

Oh, and get the little plastic tool with the trimming tips in it for prepping the ends of the pipe pipe, it helps it make a nice clean seal in the sharkbite connectors.


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FreeLanceing

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Posted: 01/28/12 08:22am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thats quest, they used that in rv's and mobile homes early 80s untill I am not sure. It gets brittle. Might be ok in a house but going down the road not so good. You get 20-30 year life thats not too bad these days. I get my pex from a plumbing supply center. Its red for hot blue for cold. I just redid an entire house 1 bath, kitchen less than 200 materials. Crimp fittings are better, thats all the pro's use. Sharkbite are OK for homeowner use. As a builder I try to go with the better stuff. That plastic stuff is fine, I think its rated for 200lbs. If you use that in the entire system your water may taste a little funky for a few years. Smell it. They used to use that for sink/toilet to shut off conections. Now its mostly braided stainless. If it were mine I would just run it and bring along a repair kit. A few elbows,tee's, straights, some tube clamps etc. If it really becomes an issue then tackle the whole mess. If you are not all that handy, I would bet a slow plumber would do the entire system for a couple hundred and a case of diet Dr pepper or whatever.

Bigfootchevy

Bancroft, Ontario, Canada

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Posted: 01/28/12 05:49pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Minor problem, but the camper looks great. Hope you and your Daughter have fun.

Paul

tri5ron

Orange County Ca. USA

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Posted: 01/28/12 10:03pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well it looks like the Pex has won out, and I will be replacing the complete system tomorrow.

Although I would have liked to do the Sharkbite fittings, ...
when I got to Home Depot and saw the prices, I just about fell over ! $10.54 for a single 1/2" tee,... and I need 8 of them!, that's not even counting the elbows, or faucet connections.
SOoooo,... even though the crimp tool was an extra $58, I decided to go with the Pex brass fittings, and copper crimping rings.
(at least now, I'll have the tool for future projects).

I'm even considering adding an exterior spigot to the underside of the camper wing, just because I can !

tri5ron

Orange County Ca. USA

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Posted: 01/28/12 10:37pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok, next question...

I did not want to spend $53, for a 100' roll of blue, and another of red tubing.
I bought a single 50' roll of white Pex tubing, ($14).

Now I notice it says "Non-Oxygen Barrier Tubing".
Is this ok to use in my application ?
for both the hot and cold tubing runs?

When do you NEED to use tubing that is "Oxygen Barrier" type ?

JoeChiOhki

Sauvie Island, OR

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Posted: 01/29/12 03:17am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Non-Oxygen barrier is just standard plumbing pex, perfectly fine for hot and cold water use.

Oxygen barrier tubing is meant for hydronic heating service.

PexUniverse wrote:


http://www.pexuniverse.com/content/pex-t........bing-types-oxygen-barrier-vs-non-barrier
PEX tubing types - Oxygen Barrier vs. Non-Barrier

One of the most common questions you face when starting on a plumbing or radiant heating project is whether to choose PEX tubing with oxygen barrier or non-barrier.


The main difference between the two types is the external polymer coating of the oxygen barrier PEX tubing, which makes the tubing prone to oxygen diffusion. Oxygen barrier PEX is used in radiant or hydronic heating applications only, where cast iron or other ferrous components are present in the system. Since contact of oxygen molecules in the water with ferrous parts in the system results in rust, oxygen barrier helps to prevent ferrous components from corrosion.

Oxygen barrier is also called EVOH (Ethylene Vinyl Alcohol), which is simply the abbreviation for the polymer.

DIN 4726 is the standard that can commonly be found imprinted of the oxygen barrier PEX tubing and shows that the oxygen diffusion barrier requirements are met.


Non-barrier PEX tubing, or simply PEX plumbing tubing is used for plumbing applications. Since there's always a supply of fresh water from a water heater or a water main, oxygen molecules will always be present in the system, so there's no need for the oxygen barrier.


If you already have the tubing but don't know which one you have, bring it to the light and take a closer look. If the tubing has a shiny surface - it's PEX with oxygen barrier; if the surface is matte - it's non-barrier PEX. Most manufacturers also have the type of PEX imprinted on the pipe. Don't get confused with colors, as they do not indicate the type of tubing, they are used for color coding purposes only.



JoeChiOhki

Sauvie Island, OR

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Posted: 01/28/12 10:31pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tri5ron wrote:

Well it looks like the Pex has won out, and I will be replacing the complete system tomorrow.

Although I would have liked to do the Sharkbite fittings, ...
when I got to Home Depot and saw the prices, I just about fell over ! $10.54 for a single 1/2" tee,... and I need 8 of them!, that's not even counting the elbows, or faucet connections.
SOoooo,... even though the crimp tool was an extra $58, I decided to go with the Pex brass fittings, and copper crimping rings.
(at least now, I'll have the tool for future projects).

I'm even considering adding an exterior spigot to the underside of the camper wing, just because I can !


Yeah, they're a bit more expensive there than here, they're around $5-8 apiece for most of the fittings, but then for my cold water line, I only need 3, one T with 1/2" threads on it, one straight with half inch threads, and an elbow with half inch threads. I replaced the lines going from the back bone to the faucets years ago with stainless steel mesh lines, so all I'm replacing is the backbone pipe.

The brass fittings and crimping will hold up vastly better than the plastic ones used in most rvs today.

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