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Open Roads Forum  >  Toy Haulers

 > Need to upgrade batteries/charging system- suggestions?

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Crazy Cooter

Redding, CA

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Posted: 01/28/12 07:00pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

squidnapper wrote:

wild bill wrote:

I have a 3612 also and have made many mods to get my battery, charging system to where I want it....I have 3 grand-kids and a wife that no nothing about conserving battery...so I went with 4 solar panels and 6..... 6v golf cart batteries along with a 3000 watt inverter charger....the right solar controller and proper wiring sizes are the most important factors....I did mine twice to get it right...you can check out my install on my web site...good luck with your 3612.....
PS...I almost never run my gen set....only if I need the A/C on.....


Interesting- most people in the threads I have been researching say that solar is really only good for a "trickle" charge.

My trailer shipped with two automotive style Interstate batteries. They are pretty much done now after just two seasone, so I have to address the batteries regardless. Was hoping to solve this problem at the same time.

I am not averse to running the genny for a few hours a day, it just seems that currently I can run it for a while (say 5+) hours, and it really doesn't seem to charge the batteries much.


I too have a larger battery bank and PV system....

3-Deka 12v AGM 8D's for a total of 735 AH
6-45v 185w panels feeding 90v in 3 strings to enable small 10ga runs.
Outback Flexmax 80 MPPT controller
Magnum MS2012 inverter/charger
Magnum BMK battery monitor

We run the inverter 24/7 so the Satellite DVR gets our programs, Norcold 12v electric chest freezer, and two ham radios most of the day.

We boondock 99.9% of our 60+ night camping season. I hate the noise of generators and want silence when I'm relaxing, so solar was my choice.

If there is sun light at all.....power is not an issue. I have even seen a trickle from the moonlight!

I specifically ordered this rig without the generator and used the savings of space and money to accommodate the off grid system.

I have also been thinking of doing grid tie while plugged in at the house to help pay for itself.

There is a lot of info out there and there are a few here that REALLY know their stuff....were here to help.


Tony KI6WAO

2006 Dodge Ram 3500 DRW
1992 Jeep Wrangler YJ
2012 Cyclone 300C
2013 Can Am Maverick X-RS
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IOWASTROKER

rocky mountians

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Posted: 01/28/12 08:09pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Because of my CPAP, which requires 110 volts, I use my Honda 2000i gen. Costs about a gallon for 13 hours. Batteries stay up and I stay alive))

sdrubrecht

camarillo ca

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Posted: 01/29/12 09:59am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you are going to replace the charger and add an inverter, go with a converter-charger-inverter all in one. Will save having to run extension cords or new wiring for plugs for the inverter. When properly installed, it will seamlessly switch between functions as needed. We have the trace 2000 watt inverter/80 amp charger combo and are very happy with it. Runs our microwave, tv's etc with no problem. Will take our batteries from 50% up to 80% in a few hours. Good enough as the last 20% to top off can take 3 hours or more due to the dynamics of battery charging. That can wait till the trip is over. Unfortunately, a good charger-inverter setup will blow your grand.


Steve, Sheri, and Mutley, the italian greyhound
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bkirkpatrick

Brea / Orange County, CA

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Posted: 01/29/12 11:34am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Also, FYI, if you are going to get a portable gen and you have a higher amp converter or inverter/charger combo, you will need at least a 3000w gen. I have the Honda 2000 and in the AM it kicks out if the batteries are low and won't allow the bulk charge from the high amp charger in my Freedom 458. Once the batteries have received a good charge from the Onan 5500, the Honda will run fine. Just my 2 cents.


Raptor - Modifications 


squidnapper

Provo, Utah

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Posted: 01/29/12 12:41pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

sdrubrecht wrote:

If you are going to replace the charger and add an inverter, go with a converter-charger-inverter all in one. Will save having to run extension cords or new wiring for plugs for the inverter. When properly installed, it will seamlessly switch between functions as needed. We have the trace 2000 watt inverter/80 amp charger combo and are very happy with it. Runs our microwave, tv's etc with no problem. Will take our batteries from 50% up to 80% in a few hours. Good enough as the last 20% to top off can take 3 hours or more due to the dynamics of battery charging. That can wait till the trip is over. Unfortunately, a good charger-inverter setup will blow your grand.


So with a setup like this is it pretty much fire-and-forget? Meaning do I have to worry about overcharging or conditioning the batteries? I'd hate to drop the dough on the batteries only to find myself in this same spot again two years from now. I realize there is a larger conversation implicit regarding battery maintenance but could I reasonably expect to keep this plugged into shore power when not camping and trust the batteries are ok?


Raptor 3812
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mapguy

Puget Sound

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Posted: 01/29/12 01:01pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If leaning to an inverter-charger consider staying away from Xantrex. Reason is that these units are not repairable, per the factory. So if it fails 2 months out of warranty -you buy another one. Lots of threads about some models of Xantrex failing fairly early for the invested dollar.

The Magnum Energy unit is modular construction and repairable and made in Washington State. Xantrex and Magnum Energy units that are comparable are very similar in cost.

Another brand to consider is the Samlex units -a little cheaper than the Xantrex and Magnum with very similar features.

sh410

Northwest

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Posted: 01/29/12 02:08pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IMHO, a combination of LED's, more and better batteries combined with energy conservation will be the least inexpensive.

The batteries you described are probably G24 with 80 AH each for a total of 160AH of which ideally you should only use 80 AH before recharging.

For example lights use about 1.5amps per hour each. The furnace itself will use 7 Amps per hour and for 8 hours use, will draw 56 AHs.

Charging every day is a nessessity. If you wait until the furnace will not run. then it will take longer than 5 hrs to replenish the batteries. You can purchase more & more battery capacity, however, whatever you use will need to need to be replaced by longer charging times. Partially charging batteries will kill batteriess fairly quickly.

Solar panel can be had for about $2.00 per watt. A 135 watt panel will be about $270 plus the charge controller. Do a search here on 'solar panels', and you will find hours of reading and information

Lots of choices, some more expensive than others. Conservation being the least expensive.

Good luck





sdrubrecht

camarillo ca

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Posted: 01/30/12 08:56am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A quality charger-controller will maintain batteries on shore power and not overcharge them. Not true of some of the cheaper and older models. Carefully read the specs before plunking down the cash. My trace unit can be programmed for equalization and maximum charging voltage as AGM, Gel, and regular flooded lead acid batteries as all require different charging voltages. The Gels and AGM types can be easily fried by too high a charging voltage. If you go with standard lead acid batteries, hydrocaps are a good addition. They contain a catalyst that condenses the bubbling vapors and returns them to the batteries. I check monthly, but have only had to add water twice in 2 years. Almost no hydrogen fumes as well.
Good luck with your choices. I know it can be daunting trying to get bang for your buck and make things easier and less troublesome.

Crazy Cooter

Redding, CA

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Posted: 01/30/12 11:10am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Agreed, larger battery capacity and a good charger would be the best bang for the buck in the short term. As mentioned above GC2 batteries are the best deal and most forgiving if you have room in a vented battery box.

All that stuff I wasted my money on is just pure luxury and I forget sometimes that my idea of camping in an RV is just like home but with a different view out the window!

I bet with 4 GC2's and a 80-100A charger, you could cut generator run time to 1.5-3 hours a day without beating up on the batteries. Solar would just lower that number even more! This could easily be done with quality parts for under $1K if you are handy.

2btowed

glendale,az

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Posted: 01/31/12 09:25pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I hated the origanal battery,charger setup that my 06 Raptor came with,one 12v and a 5a charger,Icould run the genny for 5 hrs and still have NO batts in AM.After watching my friends never run their genny for 4days of dry camping I thought why not me.I installed 6-6v.and installed a Magnum 2500.Man ,how nice,go almost 4days w/o genny,All my 110v have power when inverter on,do not have to run a cord or any,thing.Can program charge all the way to 130a but run it around 90a,seems to do quick charge.The only thing I have changed is I have replaced 2-6vols for a big 12v,after my better half ran everything to low to start the genny.Now have genny on seperate start battery and do not have to worry or watch the rest.The Magnum was pricey but has made camping much easier.Grandkids {and Better half},can run batts till inverter shuts off ,still plenty of juice on seperate batt to crank genny.Also added LEDs this winter from Rigid Ind.so that helps also.If you wanna do it in steps,I'd go batts first with plug in auto charger hooked up,then with Inverter/charger,LEDs,then solar.Ive been waiting for panel prices to drop a little more before going solar,but it is next....


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