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 > New truck bed clearance

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DrBaker

Oklahoma

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Posted: 01/29/12 07:02pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have always heard 6-8" is best.

With the new breed of super tall trucks this is proving difficult.


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big buford

Buena Park, Ca

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Posted: 01/29/12 07:09pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A 40 footer would get you level

If I were in your situation, I would install a correct track and call it a day. Should yield a 2" lift on the trailer. There is a thread about it in here somewhere.

The kit doesnt look too stout on the web page but watch the install video. Looks like stout stuff and will strengthen the hangers also.


correct track

* This post was edited 01/29/12 07:16pm by big buford *


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lincster

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Posted: 01/29/12 07:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You won't change how a 5er tows by flipping the axles.

For off road, I would want no less than 7" of clearance.
I have 9" of my setup.


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big buford

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Posted: 01/29/12 07:22pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Oops just saw his last post, may be a better way...

Taken from crazy cooter correct track thread:

Update!!!!

After seeing the side to side movement in the spring hangers under load, I welded connecting tubes right to left between the hangers for some added support. Not what I would consider to be ideal, but I have yet to modify the chassis in any way that would void the warranty.

I'm going to install some KYB monotube shocks this winter and I may in the future to a 2x2x.250 tube lift and Torflex axles after warranty runs out......may add a third axle as well! Two extra brakes and tires would be better for durability and reliability.

mapguy

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Posted: 01/30/12 12:10pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

lincster wrote:

You won't change how a 5er tows by flipping the axles.

For off road, I would want no less than 7" of clearance.
I have 9" of my setup.


The truth -6" for pavement queen. 8+" for a off-road capable rig.

It will tow better with the trailer frame level because the trailers suspenson will work properly.

sunnybrookid

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Posted: 01/29/12 07:13pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had exactly the same issue with my truck and rig. I have a 2011 Chevy Silverado 4X4 with a SunnyBrook Bristol Bay 3505RI 5er. I decided to go a different route than most with this problem. My solution was to lower the truck. I had 2" drop shackles installed on the rear leaf springs and lowered the front end 2" with the torsion bars. This required a front end re-alignment. The added benefit was it makes entry and exit into the truck easier for me and the DW. I had to put the B&W Companion hitch in the top set of holes to get my 6" clearance. The rig still sits a little nose high, so I decided to check the weight on each axle and they are within 100 pounds of each other. I imagine that is due to the Mor-Ryde suspension on the rig. I've had this configuration for just over a year and and 25K miles, with no issues. It solved my concerns. Hope that helps.

BobWanderer

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Posted: 01/30/12 01:12pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mapguy wrote:



The truth -6" for pavement queen. 8+" for a off-road capable rig.

It will tow better with the trailer frame level because the trailers suspenson will work properly.


I know he does tow "off road" and some pretty rough areas as well.


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BobWanderer

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Posted: 01/30/12 02:39pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

if your going to raise the front a little, you might get away with adjusting the Torsion bars and alignment. If you need 2"-3" your probably better off with the Rancho (or similar) links.
I too had to put steps (nerf bars)on ours.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EXP-63161/

looks like a better kit than the one I got, has the shock extensions and the kit I got did not. As I said earlier, I need longer front shocks.

* This post was last edited 01/30/12 06:38pm by BobWanderer *   View edit history

nayther

Burbank, CA

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Posted: 01/30/12 02:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the info. Mark but I'm not crazy about extending the hangers, too much leverage in a place that seems to be a weak point. I like the idea of lowering the truck, it's so damn high now I HAD to put steps/nerf bars on so my wife could get in!

I pulled it out into the street yesterday and it is nose high by about 2" (from eyeballing, didn't measure it) and is right at or a little less than 6" all along, actually less right at the axle centerline, more at the corners. It tows like a dream with the new truck. And like Bob said we sometimes get in some nasty/bumpy pit areas at our races but mostly it's pretty flat.

Where do I get lowering shackles? I looked on fleabay but nothing for a 2012, any ideas? lowering by an inch or two, along with raising the front a bit like Bob said sounds like the most desirable solution. First trip is in a couple of weeks.


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mapguy

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Posted: 01/30/12 02:18pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BobWanderer wrote:

mapguy wrote:



The truth -6" for pavement queen. 8+" for a off-road capable rig.

It will tow better with the trailer frame level because the trailers suspenson will work properly.


I know he does tow "off road" and some pretty rough areas as well.


I figured. Probably needs to do a spring over conversion and be done. Having trailer nose high risks the back of PIN Box hitting tailgate or bed rails on tight turn on uneven ground. Might be able to use the upper spring eye mount holes -if his Ragen has the double hole spring hangers. Won't be able to use the upper hole if a cushioned equalizer is installed IME. OEM shocks won't work either on soa conversion.

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