If it is just the 2 of you and maybe on occasion some friends/family, do you really need bunks? You can get a rear living floorplan that you can have a jack knife or hide a bed sofa to sleep 1-2 people (depending on size) and a dinnette that converts to a bed to sleep 1-2 people, this would be in addition to your bed. You could get into a lighter, shorter trailer that has a slide this way and give yourself more room. The problem is a good all weather trailer tends to be heavy. A light weight trailer tends to be missing things like extra insulation. I wish you luck in finding the perfect TT for you.
anaro wrote: If it is just the 2 of you and maybe on occasion some friends/family, do you really need bunks? You can get a rear living floorplan that you can have a jack knife or hide a bed sofa to sleep 1-2 people (depending on size) and a dinnette that converts to a bed to sleep 1-2 people, this would be in addition to your bed. You could get into a lighter, shorter trailer that has a slide this way and give yourself more room. The problem is a good all weather trailer tends to be heavy. A light weight trailer tends to be missing things like extra insulation. I wish you luck in finding the perfect TT for you.
I didn't think it would be easy, but I appreciate the help and good wishes. I think your suggestion about fold out extra sleeping areas sounds about right for us, as 99% of the time it will be just us two. I was thinking around, or slightly more than, 21', but that's where the weight information comes in handy. If payload includes everything with mass, then I'm hoping 20'-25' will be do-able with some decent insulation, and some room for equipment and water and some cargo capacity, too. Does that sound possible? Say 24' and 3 tons or less, total on the hitch, and behind the TV?
Mike.
2002 Roadtrek Chevy 190 Popular/2009 F150 XLT Supercrew
It's not a sprint, it's a marathon (on most days).
goducks10 wrote: We carry ours in the truck under the canopy. Take it out and chain it to the steps by the front door of the TT. Not really worried about theft at most of the CG's we go to. But a few that were not familar with we put it back in the truck and lock the canopy. Our 2000W only weighs about 45lbs so no biggy on moving it around. Heres a link to a Honda 3000W that will give you some info on hrs and such.
Hmmmm, was hoping for a purpose built fixed secure container/box which would house a generator, which could be always connected to fuel, and remotely started from inside the trailer. I hear you about the weight of these little beasties, and some are heavier than others.
anaro wrote: If it is just the 2 of you and maybe on occasion some friends/family, do you really need bunks? You can get a rear living floorplan that you can have a jack knife or hide a bed sofa to sleep 1-2 people (depending on size) and a dinnette that converts to a bed to sleep 1-2 people, this would be in addition to your bed. You could get into a lighter, shorter trailer that has a slide this way and give yourself more room. The problem is a good all weather trailer tends to be heavy. A light weight trailer tends to be missing things like extra insulation. I wish you luck in finding the perfect TT for you.
I didn't think it would be easy, but I appreciate the help and good wishes. I think your suggestion about fold out extra sleeping areas sounds about right for us, as 99% of the time it will be just us two. I was thinking around, or slightly more than, 21', but that's where the weight information comes in handy. If payload includes everything with mass, then I'm hoping 20'-25' will be do-able with some decent insulation, and some room for equipment and water and some cargo capacity, too. Does that sound possible? Say 24' and 3 tons or less, total on the hitch, and behind the TV?
Payload is what the truck is capable of carrying. A door sticker will tell you what your vehicle has. Basically, look at your GVWR for the TV, and weigh it with a full tank of gas, everything and everyone in it. Subtract the number you obtained from the GVWR and this should be your available payload of what else you can put in/on the TV. The payload includes everything you put in or on your tow vehicle including the hitch and tongue weight. It does not include the overall weight of the trailer you are pulling. For example: Take a trailer that weighs 6500 lbs fully loaded, if it has a tongue weight of 15%, then the tongue weight would be 975 lbs. You would have to add the 975 lbs to your trucks payload.
I think I have this right. I am still a newbie myself (got our first TT a year ago). Someone with more experience please chime in and correct this or explain it better.
anaro wrote: Payload is what the truck is capable of carrying. A door sticker will tell you what your vehicle has. Basically, look at your GVWR for the TV, and weigh it with a full tank of gas, everything and everyone in it. Subtract the number you obtained from the GVWR and this should be your available payload of what else you can put in/on the TV. The payload includes everything you put in or on your tow vehicle including the hitch and tongue weight. It does not include the overall weight of the trailer you are pulling. For example: Take a trailer that weighs 6500 lbs fully loaded, if it has a tongue weight of 15%, then the tongue weight would be 975 lbs. You would have to add the 975 lbs to your trucks payload.
I think I have this right. I am still a newbie myself (got our first TT a year ago). Someone with more experience please chime in and correct this or explain it better.
I think what you are saying is correct and makes sense, even to me, thanks. The total weight that the TV can support on 2 axles including passengers, fuel, etc. plus the down force on the hitch from the tongue weight of the trailer. One would hope it will be fairly substantial, but if it isn't, you have to eliminate something.
I'll miss her.
Seriously, how much of a cushion in terms of total payload, and total trailer weight, do you figure is reasonable? Is carrying and pulling 80% of the max ratings reasonable? My truck is supposed to be able to pull 8,000 lbs. I'm skeptical.
IMHO the 80% rule is subjective to the user. You can load up to the manufacturers max specs and still be safe.
I am not loaded to the max, but I am fairly close. Honestly I do not think that the equipment can tell much difference. Especially for the amount of time most RV'ers tow.
However your max trailer weight should be less than your max tow rating. My TT is a gvwr of 7700 lbs with my max tow at 8000 lbs I am under but just barely. The difference for me is that my TT is a dry weight of 4950. So I am 2750 lbs on my TT payload capacity. I am not anywhere 7700 lbs.
Thanks
TT: 1995 Layton 2910
Tow Vehicle: 1999 F-350, v10, 2wd, Crew Cab, Dually
Hitch: Draw-Tite Trunnion WD Hitch
Sway Control: Valley dual friction sway control
Brake Control: Tekonsha Voyager
"It's Kind of Fun To Do The Impossible"
~Walt Disney~
jerem0621 wrote: IMHO the 80% rule is subjective to the user. You can load up to the manufacturers max specs and still be safe.
I am not loaded to the max, but I am fairly close. Honestly I do not think that the equipment can tell much difference. Especially for the amount of time most RV'ers tow.
However your max trailer weight should be less than your max tow rating. My TT is a gvwr of 7700 lbs with my max tow at 8000 lbs I am under but just barely. The difference for me is that my TT is a dry weight of 4950. So I am 2750 lbs on my TT payload capacity. I am not anywhere 7700 lbs.
Thanks
Just looked up your TT and it's a 30 footer, and you're pulling it with no problems with a 5.4L V8? Wow, that's pretty decent.
I think the hardest part of understanding all this stuff is, everyone seems to use a mixture of terms to describe the same principles and theories. Is the "max tow rating" the amount of weight the TV can pull horizontally (along the roadway), including the weight of the TV and all cargo in both the TV and TT? I hear tongue weight, GVWR, dry weight, and the list goes on.
Is there a place where I can find all the terms and their definitions and how the relate to each other? A picture would be worth a 1,000 words. Like a cross sectional TV/TT diagram together with terms of what's what?
I know it's frustrating to try and get your head wrapped around all the terms and definitions.
Yes the tv tow rating is what the amount of weight a tv is rated to pull horizontally.
Payload (the amount of stuff your vehicle can carry) is determined by subtracting your dry weight from your GVWR. Remember that both your TT and your tv have separate payload amounts.
For your tv the danger is overloading you rear axle and unloading your front axle. Have you ever seen a tv and a TT going down the road with the headlights pointing straight up? The problem is that they do not have the WD hitch set up correctly or there is some part of the towing system that is either overloaded or not functioning correctly.
A weight distribution hitch when properly set up will take your TT tongue weight and project the TT to gue weight over the entire rig. The WD hitch will put some of the weight of the tongue on the front axle, some on the rear axle of the tv and some of the TT tongue weight back on the TT axles. A simple way for me to think about we hitches is to consider a child's teeter totter. The fulcrum is the part that the teeter totter attaches too. If the children are equal weight they can achieve equalibrium if they want to.
A weight distribution hitch works on a similar principal. You have different size spring bars that must be matched to your tongue weight.
There are a few philosophies about setting up WD hitches but the most common and easiest to achieve is to restore factory front fender height while towing.
Trailer length playes very little into the ease of towing than most folks think. Once traveling down the road the reality is that aerodynamics play a major role in the way the trailer handles. Next time you are at the RV dealership check out the overall profile of the TT. You will find some that are under 10 ft tall and you will find some well over 11 ft.
Think about the center of gravity on these taller TT, think about the hole that the tv has to punch in the air. Will it be easier to punch a 10 ft hole or a 12 or 13 ft hole? This principal is what makes airstreams so towable. Thy have a low center of gravity, lower overall profile,and rounded corners. In other words they are very aerodynamic.
I was too broke to afford a good airstream so I did the next best thing I could. My TT has a low center of gravity, it is well balanced front to rear, and the over all height is a little over 10 ft.
My frame is so low to the ground that I can't install screw down jacks. I have to use jackstand stabilizers. I am ok with that because of the great towing characteristics of my TT.
In other words. Towing a well balanced and well made 32 ft trailer is Much easier than a badly designed 22 ft TT.
WD hitch set up, proper tv, and a good TT with great handling characteristics are the key to a solid rig on the road. Notice I didnt mention away control? Why? Because if the the tv, TT, and WD hitch are dialed in the rig WILL NOT sway. Add on devices are only to be used as redundant safety's and not as a band aid to cover up a swaying problem.
One more thing. Get a good proportional brake controller. Tekonsha is highly regarded but not the only brand out there. Time based is junk.
ON the Genereator questions- I looked at the issue and this is what I decided.
I needed a quite, easily movable, easy to refuel, capable of running my AC.
I purchased 2 Honda Generators that can be hooked /cabled together to operate the AC/Microwave. I made a fuel line that feeds them from a boat fuel tank. To refuel just add fuel to the tank that is setting 6 ft from the running generator while it is running. You can purchase these set ups on the internet.
My reasons for two smaller generators had to do with ease of movement, ability to utilize one or both in different locations/purposes if needed. I regularly use just one if not operating AC.
I have since seen other brands that are less expensive and seem to operate just as well. Also able to be connected to operate larger appliances/applications.
If I were purchasing again I would look at a Yamaha yellow generators as they can be stacked on top of one another and the prices I have seen are less.
There are threads that have pictures on locking securing generators. I use a cable and lock that keeps keeps honest or lazy people honest. If someone realy wants it they can get it.
US Army Retired X 2 (Both wife and I)
2012 North Trail TT 30QOK
2005 Dodge deisel 2500 HD, shortbed, 6 speed manual, Equalizer Hitch, Warn Winch, highlift jack, Honda Gen Set, Winona Canoe
re: TV/TT weight limits, I found this, if anyone is (still?) interested. Seems to actually work. It produced numbers which were just about where I estimated the TV should be at 66% of it's max. I like the "margin" feature, too.
http://changingears.com/rv-sec-calc-trailer-weight-tt.shtml
As for generators, I may be able to avoid them for now, but thanks for the various recommendations. Good info.
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The total weight that the TV can support on 2 axles including passengers, fuel, etc. plus the down force on the hitch from the tongue weight of the trailer. One would hope it will be fairly substantial, but if it isn't, you have to eliminate something. 
