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 > Help me out with my shore power

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NorthernLimits

Michigan

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Posted: 02/03/12 10:11pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mockturtle wrote:

Most of us just get a 30 to 20amp adapter to plug into home outlets. Make sure if you use an extension cord it's rated to carry 30amps.


That's kind of what I have in the pics except it's a 50 amp adapted to 30 amp adapted to 15 amp.

This is just as it sits in my driveway running a small heater and the battery charger and a fan.

I was wondering if it was actually a 240v plug.





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Posted: 02/04/12 01:17am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Moved from General RV'ing forum.


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bukhrn

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Posted: 02/04/12 07:04am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

NorthernLimits wrote:

Makes sense now.

So it's really not 240, just looks like it.

Now I have to figure out how to get a 30 or 50 amp, 120v plug in my garage.
Don't meess around, get a qualified electrician to wire in the 50a recepticle, if you go with the 30, you will probably be restricted to what you can run at one time.


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Chris Bryant

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Posted: 02/04/12 08:31am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

NorthernLimits wrote:

Ok, this is what I have on the camper.



And on the other end of the cord is a 4 prong thing like this...



Now am I reading it right that the camper is wired for 240v?


Yes- the camper is wired for 240 volt, 50 amp service.

Quote:


Then there is a dog bone adapter that takes the 4 prong to a 3 prong that looks like this...



Is that above still for 240v?


Nope- that is down to 30 amp, 120 volt.
Quote:

Can I plug it into my 240v plug in my garage that looks like this...



No- that is a 240 volt outlet.

Quote:


Last question...what exactly am I getting with all the stupid adapters and it plugged in like this to 120v? I know the AC doesn't turn on but it's also snowing and 20 degrees out.



You are winding up with 120 volts at either 15 or 20 amps.


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Posted: 02/04/12 09:04am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

Makes sense now.

So it's really not 240, just looks like it.
It's a 240/120V 4 wire 3 node circuit. Yes it is 240V and that is important as it helps to determine wire size, especially the neutral and other factors. Most RVs do not have 240V appliances and just use the 120V capability.

The circuit is identical to the one used in houses typically for a oven or stove.

Whatever you do don't plug into that 240V 3 wire plug.


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dougrainer

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Posted: 02/04/12 09:07am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Brent and Gina wrote:

mockturtle wrote:

Most of us just get a 30 to 20amp adapter to plug into home outlets. Make sure if you use an extension cord it's rated to carry 30amps.


I'm not an electrician either, but is that necessary? Wouldn't the 15/20a breaker on house flip if too much current is drawn by the RV? This would seem to me that a regular 20a extension cord is fine. You know, adapt down from 50a to 30a to 20a extension cord. I've used a smaller extension cord somewhat regularly, but I don't use anything but lights in the RV (mostly). If I'm wrong, then let me know 'cause I've been a bad, bad, boy.


THIS is a BIG common misconception by a LOT of RV'ers. They think the house breaker will trip IF they run too many things and overload the circuit. Yes, sometimes the house breaker will trip but MOST times, the extension cord or adapter starts a heat buildup and that causes a fire or burning before the house breaker will trip. Remember, MOST people do not realize that a standard household receptacle-- II with a round ground is rated at a MAX of 15 amp current draw regardless of the breaker feeding it. AND that does not take into account other receptacles in the house connected to THAT receptacle you are connecting the RV to. You can do the lights, but you have to think about the loads. Regardless of what some will tell you on these forums, you CANNOT run a roof AC or Microwave in the RV SAFELY on a garage standar receptacle. Doug

Dr Quick

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Posted: 02/04/12 09:09am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The plug in your garage is a 240 volt across the two opposite blades. I repaired appliances, and on an electric dryer they used 240 volts to power the heating element, and by connecting from the one side to the center common or ground, they would have 120 volts available to run the motor and all of the other items in the dryer that required 120 volts, like the timer, lights, etc. The reason for this is so that they could use a lot of common parts in the gas dryers too, which only used 120 volts.

It would be possible to make an adapter using a 50 amp female socket to a 30 amp male plug to use the 240 volt plug in your garage. Circuit would actually be over protected, as you would reach 30 amps before breaker would trip. You would want to have someone with electrical experience help you with this.


Dr Quick


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Posted: 02/04/12 09:19am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dr Quick wrote:

It would be possible to make an adapter using a 50 amp female socket to a 30 amp male plug to use the 240 volt plug in your garage. Circuit would actually be over protected, as you would reach 30 amps before breaker would trip. You would want to have someone with electrical experience help you with this.
Please don't do this as it's very bad advice.

ALL RV circuits require both a neutral and ground for safety which the above would not have. Have a properly wired 30A or 50A RV plug installed.

smkettner

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Posted: 02/04/12 09:39am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

NorthernLimits wrote:

Makes sense now.

So it's really not 240, just looks like it.

Now I have to figure out how to get a 30 or 50 amp, 120v plug in my garage.


Call an electrician and ask him to install a NEMA 14-50r. This should be a slam dunk install that is very common.

The 14-50 is 240 but is actually both 240/120 service. The difference from the welder outlet is that the 14-50 has a neutral connection.


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