Has anybody tried these things to stop leaks in there roof.
Eternabond, Ames, Dicor, Liquid Roof if so how did they work? Easy to put on? Any other ideas on leaks?
klink Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.
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edited 02/06/12 07:49pm by an administrator/moderator *
Eternabond and Dicor caulk work. And work well. Fix your leaks before coating the roof, and clean the area well before applying the Eternabond or Dicor.
There is a link on the second page that shows a place to buy Eternabond 4" x 50' for $55.
There is a link for a two part roof coating, it can be put on a dry roof, and can allow rain on it once cured for only a hour or two. Yet it only cures above 55F, so it needs a couple of warm days to cure, or being parked indoors a couple of nights above 60F. There is a link with a video on the website.
I put Herculiner on my roof, it soaked in very well, makes the roof very tough, water tight again! and no white streaks.
Eternabond and Dicor work, but you need to know where the leak is to know where to apply them.
I have used Eternabond and it works very well and stays on. But you have to clean and apply it correctly in order for it to work. It holds well on flat or curved surfaces, but it is extremely difficult to get it to stay on corrugated aluminum siding.
I have used http://www.epdmcoatings.com and it is great as you can paint this right over the flanges of the vents on the roof and over the seams on the edge of the roof and give yourself a true seal over the entire roof, however the product is packaged in large quantities to be applied over the entire roof and is not distributed in small quantities for "spot" repairs.
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In MOST cases where someone reports their "roof" is leaking it's the caulking that is bad and needs to be refreshed. Just about every manufacturer uses self leveling Dicor from the factory. If you want to spend more money and make it last longer Eternobond is a pretty good product (though certainly NOT eternal).
Good luck / Skip
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Before you try to reseal the roof, I would be concerned it there was any damage done to the roof deck or support lumber before I tried to reseal roof. If there is water damage, it will never stop progressing even if you seal leak. Due to the way most RV's are made, once you notice a leak, the damage has probably already happened.
Eternabond is very good, but if you seal the roof with it, and find out you have to replace any damaged wood below the roof membrane later, your project will be even harder to do.
Dr Quick wrote: Before you try to reseal the roof, I would be concerned it there was any damage done to the roof deck or support lumber before I tried to reseal roof. If there is water damage, it will never stop progressing even if you seal leak. Due to the way most RV's are made, once you notice a leak, the damage has probably already happened.
Eternabond is very good, but if you seal the roof with it, and find out you have to replace any damaged wood below the roof membrane later, your project will be even harder to do.
Good point.
We actually cut slits in the rubber roof and let a shop vac blow air under the rubber and out an exit slit on the other end for a few days.
When the luan got 'crunchy' we knew it was dry then we patched the slits and known holes (where some of the slits were made) with Eternabond. That was in 2008 I think.
After all the weak roof areas were reinforced with Web Seal Eternabond we coated everything with Rubber Roof. T
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